Numerous people have probably started at this juncture or much worse. 1980, original California 305, now with California Air Resources Board approved 350, automatic. It has been sitting for 9 years unregistered. Salvage title, and the only signs of possible major repair are a couple spots of "glass" work inside the rear storage area. I have not been around Vettes enough to know if it is factory "glass" work or not. At least that is all I have been able to find so far. Who knows what is lurking further deep down. Original black exterior with Claret Red cloth interior. Factory AC. Pictures were taken at the previous owners home to show to my wife what a " good deal" we were getting.

Car was not running when I trailered it home. Did the normal farm boy mechanic routine, beginning with spark, then to fuel, replaced fuel pump, and car started right up, except slowest idle was approximately 1800rpm. Carb off to Guaranteed Carb in Florida. Got it back today, but won't be on till the weekend. Really want to get it to idle correctly, and then put auto in gear to see if tranny is functioning at all. Carb number states 230 HP L82. Haven't taken the time to pull the block numbers yet. Doesn't matter really. My dad's 1971 Chevy Caprice had 255 HP from the stock small block 400. Everything is relative as they say.

A lot of work and parts in the future, heater core was leaking so it is disconnected; all ac components removed from car; carpeting removed; small amount of rust on passenger floor under heater core; who knows what condition the brakes are in, the exhaust from cat back is kinked in two locations, one side being hung by a C clamp. And on and on. New distributor sitting in box ready for install along with new plug wires; new plugs already in; compression check with about 4to 5 rotations is all cylinders above 150 lbs. Old plugs looked to be in reasonable condition.

Call it a mid life crisis as 50 is about 40 days away. Painted cars for a living in a previous life (as well as a few boats) and built small block chevy's for replacement motors on John Deere Combines. So, I have an outlet for frustration from the day job (and a good excuse to avoid the 5 women whom I live with, 4 daughters and a wife that is).

But, a non rusted California Vette, yes with Salvage title, at $2200 to get started, I couldn't pass it up. The goal is to be driving it before the big "50". Even if for 5 minutes of driving time at 10 MPH.

I have been lurking here for a while now. I greatly appreciate the techincal and quality information that is communicated. From "o" ring brake seals to headlight solutions to electric fans on the radiator and removing stock fan and clutch to the 1987 and later 700R4 transmission guidance. And the list goes on and on.

Thank you in advance for those future questions that I will have for you in the near future.

JT

 

Good luck in restoring, looks not a bad vette for this price. I payed 3800$ on copart for my 75 + shipping to Lithuania and taxes. But it's not so easy to find vetes in my country.

 

not bad!! looks like it is an 80 L-82. good base to start with. then will come all the fun!! congrats on the new toy. and welcome to the forum

 

80-82 are pretty cool years with 80 being the best due to no computer,
I owned two 81's so I dig them,
Seems if you are not all hung up on trying to keep it/ make it original then you can have a cool car for cheap!

 

Welcome to the cheapo salvage title club! lol.

I got my 79 for $2500 and like you just couldnt pass it up! Similar condition to yours and from CA as well.




More info on the site in my sig.

 

WOW smoking deal, i paid alot for my car, but it was a running driving car with a current appraisal. I was able to move the guy 2 grand and thats it. Any way i did a frame off rebuild of my 1980, so look at the thread and hit me up if you have any questions? Good luck with the car.

 

Nice find. I also bought mine in California. Seems that price is the normal range down there. Nothing beats a rust free car.

Your high idle could also be a vaccum leak. Once you get the carb back on it and if it idles high disconnect the vaccum feed for the lights and ac/heater control. Its on the driver side rear of the engine. If its still high you may have a vaccum leak in the smog stuff...disconnect that feed. If its still high the one way valve at the front of the master cylinder may be bad. Still high look at the PCV.

Jim