Trailing arm pivot bolt
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 175
Likes: 9
From: Plainfield IN
Trailing arm pivot bolt
I’m in the planning stage of removing the trailing arms on my 1972. I checked the pivot bolt and nut on each side and both turn easily. Doesn’t look like the sawsall or the torch are going to be needed. I’ve read several threads where guys drive out the bolt with a punch but the bolt is at such an angle, I don’t see how you can get to it to drive it out. After I get it out, it looks like it’s going to be a bit of a pain to get it back in. Not much room to work. The brake line distribution block bracket is right in the way. My questions:
What is the easiest way getting out the bolt? What is the easiest way getting it back in?
Thanks.
What is the easiest way getting out the bolt? What is the easiest way getting it back in?
Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
There is room to get a long punch in there to drive it out. On the way back in I use a long set of needle nose pliers to get it back in. Done this may times with no trouble. Takes a little fishing and you may drop the bolt once or twice but definitly doable.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 83
Likes: 2
From: Cramerton NC
Your trailing arm bolts have holes in them near the ends. Fish a piece of monofiliment fishing line through the hole then tie it then fish the line through the trailing arm and mount. Long needle nose pliers or long forceps will help get the bolt started and the fishing line can be pulled to bring it all the way through. a heavier string tied to the head end of the bolt also makes it easier to fish the bolt back if / when you drop it while getting it started. Just cut the string off when the bolt is almost home. The bent pin you see through the trailing arm is just to temporarily hold everything in place till Im ready to fish the bolt through. Of course, the bolt is fed in from the inside with the nut on the outside, this picture tends to imply otherwise but is merely for illustration.
Last edited by crossfire1982; Mar 28, 2010 at 03:22 PM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Jackson MO
I just did this last week and it wasn't as difficult as it might seem. I did lube the bolt and make sure it slides trough the new trailing arm bushing. I just pushed it though with a pair of needle nose pliers. Fairly easy.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Williston Florida
I too just reinstalled my trailing arms. Lube the bolts with Extreme Pressure grease or even anti-seize. They will slide in with no trouble and hopefully, decades down the road, they can be removed with ease! 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,403
Likes: 791
From: Redondo Beach, California
You absolutely must get a set of long needle nose pliers. They are great for this job and many others. You can buy them from Sears (Craftsman). The pliers are about a foot long with really long needle nose jaws (maybe four inch jaws). Craftsman sells two styles: straight jaws and jaws bent about 45 degrees. Get them both. Also I think Van Steel sells them in his catalog.
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