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How do you clean the window tracks?

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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Default How do you clean the window tracks?

Sorry for the dumb question. I looked at threads and many say to clean the tracks before replacing the motor. I have the door panal off, have cleaned the contacts to the motor and now want to clean the tracks. I don't see how to get to them. Do they have to be taken off to clean them? If so, what has to be done first and how do they come off. I see some bolts at the top and bottom.... Does the window have to be supported? I feel dumb asking the question, but feel it better to ask first than to break something.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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I'm sure there's a way to do it without taking them off, but its really not that challenging.
At the top of the two vertical tracks, there are a couple of stoppers bolted in the tracks. Remove these stoppers. Then remove the two bolts in the bottom left hand corner (they should be about 6" apart, in slot-type holes). This will allow you to freely adjust the window.
From there, as far as I remember, its a matter of getting the window out of the tracks.
Once the window is out, the tracks come off quite easily.

Personally, I would skip all that nonsense and just spray some lithium grease on the rollers.
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 11:45 AM
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It's a bit of work to take them out and put back in because you need to remove your glass, then unbolt the tracks and get them out. Even getting the tracks out takes some jiggering, but it's doable. I guess if it were me, I'd first decide how far you want to go with the door restoration. At the basic level, I'd suggest removing the door glass by unbolting the bolts that connect to the horizontal track. Use care, obviously. Once removed, that track will slide horizontally and you can pull it off the rollers. You definitely want to clean this track as the grease gets very dry and caked up and I don't believe you can clean it w/o removing it. Once the glass is out you can decide to remove the rear track and clean it, or do it in the car. I'd try to remove it because it's nearly impossible to completely clean them in the door. Like I say, you have to Jigger it around to get it to come out.

Then, you can pour some solvent or gasoline or what have you in a wide shallow pan/tub and let them soak for a while to loosen up the grease and then clean off with a brush. I used a piece of wire bent 90 degees to clean the underside of the track channel that's really hard to get at even with a brush. You'll see what I mean when you get there. Honestly at this point, take a look at all your door and window hardware. Now is the time to replace the coil spring from the regulator if it's broken, and any of the rollers if they are loose or seized up as well as any of the felt window positioners.

While you are in there, consider cleaning the latches. An idea is to position the car at an incline where the door is more or less leaning 'downhill' slightly when it is open. You could raise the opposite end of the car with a floor jack for this. Then, spray the door latches thoroughly with carb cleaner, let sit for a minute or two/three (maybe a second application), then follow up with engine degreaser. Make sure whatever solvent you use it's not going to remove your paint. You could use gasoline or even WD40. Let soak. Then get in there with a hose sprayer and spray with HOT water. This does a great job removing all that old caked on grease and dust. All the water will run out the door drain holes (that's why you want it at an angle so it drains away from the car). Let dry, apply new grease and oil as best as you can. Now the latches will thank you for loosening them up. Degrease and clean anything else in there while you are at it. One thing about engine degreaser is that it can have a funny smell. You may want to follow up with just soapy water, or another cleaner. Also, check for any broken welds or cracked metal on the door too. That happens on these cars and the doors get spongy and windows can flex. If your outer window seals are all hard and/or cracked, you may want to replace them at this point. It's just a few screws to remove them now that the glass is out. Replacing the inner and outer seals as well as the felt bumpers really helps tighten the glass up to a like-new state.

All this is probably a lot more than you were probably envisioning doing but it's one of those cascading projects that once you're in there you have to wonder if there is merit to going the extra step/s and get it all fixed up. Nice closing doors that sound solid when you close them as opposed to a door that rattles like its filled with a bunch of tin cans and broken glass is nice. Plus the glass operation will definitely be better once things are cleaned and lubed up. Best of luck..

Mark G

Last edited by Mark G; Apr 10, 2010 at 11:54 AM.
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