Ignition timing
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
Ignition timing
Havent worked on a small block since the early 80s.I bought a 71 coupe last week.Engine is original and was rebuilt buy the previous owner.Lots of paper work to back it up.I noticed it was a little slugish to start when first cranking it.I wentto check the timing with a timing light and cant get even close.The timing mark on the crank balancer will only get about an inch away from the timing tab on the timing chain cover.So put it on top dead center #1 compression storke.Lined up timing mark to 0 on the pointer.Rotor pointing to #8 cyl.Should be pointing to Number 1 cyl.Pulled dist out and attempted to reclock it to point to #1.It wont go back in in that spot.It will drop right back in and poit to #8 cyl with no problem.Tried this several times just will not ingage the gear teeth on the cam in that spot.I have done this in the past without any problems.What gives.This is an HEI dist with tach drive not the original dist.Could the guy have the timing chain off one notch?Car runs pretty good and turns over faster since I adjusted a little but I want the darn timing marks to line up like the should!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
It is not engaging the oil pump shaft properly. If you spin the dist shaft some you have to spin the oil pump shaft the same amount or it will not line up. The teeth will start to engage but it will not drop in all the way.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
Tried that also.I turned it with long screw driver to match the dist drive.When I put it back in still will not engage the teeth in that one spot.I turn the rotor about a half inch back and forth and it drops right in but its pointing to #8.I tried it five times just dont understand it.Each time I looked down at the oil pump and aligned it so the shaft on the dist would slip into it.Maybe its just me.I will try it again when I get a chance.I just put the new plugs in it and stabed the dist back in it like it was.I looked in the dist hole and couldnt see anything that would obstruct it from going back in that particular spot.I have done this before in the past without a hitch.Im just glad I found the car.Rust free frame and a body that had never been wrecked.All the body seams line up an the factory seam tape hasnt been disturbed.Its a low option car with only power steering and a 4sp.I ordered a power brake booster kit along with a vintage air system I hope to have time to install one day,the man had over 14,000 in receipts alone.You should have seen that 69 roadrunner he had.Factory 440 6pack!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
If you have the rotor set in the correct position you can have someone apply pressure (hold down) to the distributor while you crank the engine by hand. The distributor should drop down when it lines up with the oil pump shaft.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I never hurd of having to turn the crankshaft while droping the dist in.Slowly by hand maybe.I have done this before for othere people without any problems.I tried another method last night.Still no go.It drops in everywhere but where I need it to.Go figure.I emailed the guy I got from a few minutes ago to see if he has any ideas.Its got 2200 miles since the rebuild that included new cam, lifters and timing chain and gears.I hate to tear into it but Im going to get it right if I have to pull the cam back out.the car runs pretty good and cranks and idles with out much problem.You know how it is if aint right it aint right.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I know it the way the gears are cut it turns when you put it in alittle.I can get down wher it needs to be and it stps like the oil pump is not aligned.So I pull it out and align it with a long screw driver and still no go.Thanks for letting me chew your ear.
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento California
You have to turn the oil pump back about 1/4 turn in order for the shaft to drop in the correct position. I know it looks wrong when you do it, but it will drop in the correct position.If all else fails, just rewire the cap to match the rotor position.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Your car is a 71 updated to a HEI correct?. Are you sure that the rotor is pointing at the #8 wire and not the #1 ? HEI and the points distributors have a different position (diagram) for wiring. The firing order is the same but the placement on the distributor is different, If my memory is correct the #8 on a HEI is where the #1 was on a points distributor.
Scott
Scott
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
I agree. If you line up the oil pump slot with the dizzy shaft tab it will misalign as the spiral gears mate.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I got it in there finally. The rotor points a 1/4 of and inch from the #1 terminal on the cap.Thats as close as I can get.It cranks and runs great..Timing is at 8btc.It purrrrs right along>Thanks for all the help.This stuff is starting to come back to me.1982 was the last small block chevy I owned with a dist in it.You get spoiled with these new computer cars with coil packs.It is nice to own something made the old way.
