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I used a pint size jar on my total restoration / rebuild. I use it everywhere and the spark plugs and header bolts in an aluminum head are probably the most important spot to use it.
I am a believer in the use of anti-seize; however, consideration should be applied to torque values. When anti-seized; a nut or bolt becomes slippery, when torquing because of lowered thread friction you will end up with more torque being applied than intended. Some documentation, depending on the thread type, shows increases in torque values by as much as 70%.
What is interesting is that a coating of oil has almost no change in the intended and actual torque applied.
I use it on the lug nuts of every car I own ...have been for at least 15-20 years. Never had a problem. You just want to be sure to use it on the threads only, not the part of the nut that touches the rim (that's where you WANT the friction to be).
I am a believer in the use of anti-seize; however, consideration should be applied to torque values. When anti-seized; a nut or bolt becomes slippery, when torquing because of lowered thread friction you will end up with more torque being applied than intended. Some documentation, depending on the thread type, shows increases in torque values by as much as 70%.
What is interesting is that a coating of oil has almost no change in the intended and actual torque applied.
This might change your mind http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
Down to Torque fasteners>page 24
Only lists 30wt oil vs moly oil @ 190,000# diff is 17 ft lbs for a head bolt.
On the actual box bolts come in, it gives a 3rd choice.
I even put antisieze on the mating parts of the rim and rotor and hub pilot. Just had to repair my wife's flat today, and had to kick many times to get the tire off the hub, it was siezed on there. When she got new tires, they put nothing on.
This might change your mind http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
Down to Torque fasteners>page 24
Only lists 30wt oil vs moly oil @ 190,000# diff is 17 ft lbs for a head bolt.
On the actual box bolts come in, it gives a 3rd choice.
I even put antisieze on the mating parts of the rim and rotor and hub pilot. Just had to repair my wife's flat today, and had to kick many times to get the tire off the hub, it was siezed on there. When she got new tires, they put nothing on.
I could have specified light weight oil.
Just trying to point out that a wet thread torque varies significantly depending upon the type of lubricant used.
ARP supports this by giving the torque required for different lubricants. What was their 3rd choice, and value?
I've seen some torque tables (actual values) of dry, wet 10wt, wet 30wt, graphite, anti-seize, etc. There is a surprising large difference between the torque applied and actual torque delivered.
Well Ill throw my twist on things. Theres nothing worse than a stripped bolt hole in a cylinder head, so every new set of alum heads I get I drill and tap the header bolt holes and install helicoils and my machinest helicoils the spark plug threads for me,there a little more involved. Helicoils are tough and I never had any problems with them, though ive heard horror stories. Guess its all in how there installed.
Anywhere a steel/iron bolt threads into aluminum is a great place for anti-seize. rear shock mounts, trailing arm bolts, rear struts, just about anything that "might" get wet that you might want to remove someday.
Sort of like the old thing about WD-40 and duct tape.
There are 2 types of neverseize or Antiseize, the regular gray stuff, its good to about 300 deg. and the gray that has COPPER in it, this is good I think to over 800 deg.
The stuff with Copper in it is the HI-TEMP and used for exhaust and spark plugs and stuff that gets HOT.