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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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i ordered my calipers from willcox,just got them yesterday,didnt put them on yet.i noticed some grease around the pass. side inner universal joint,so i found a local place that installs spicer brand u-joints,question is,should i do both sides while im in there.or just wait for the drivers side. 2nd question,the drivers side strut rod is slightly cocked,the end by the diff., so why not change out everything,both rods plus both half shafts,,, and do both units come right out,or will i have to yank on them. i searched around in the search catagory,but i didnt see anything about how easily or hard these units are to change out,i just hate throw money at things that are not broke,,yet. also i picked up a vacuum pump kit from harbor freight to bleed the brakes,hope it works better than gravity. thanks,tom ps are smart struts the way to go or would stock ones keep my alignment in check.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:15 AM
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oh, its a 68 327, sorry
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Old May 6, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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Be careful of the "While I am at it" bug. You might be doing a frame-off before you know it.

That being said, I would swap out all the u-joints and replace the strut rods with adjustable ones only if the rear wheels are not plum when the car is sitting still. There is some adjustment in the factory rods, but not enough to overcome a worn out rear spring.

Also, once something breaks in the rear end, it usually rips off a rear fender or the battery, so preventative measures are well worth it!

The bleeder works well, just remember it is both used for vacuum and pressure. Be sure yours is set for vacuum and not somewhere in between the two settings. I pumped on a loan-a-tool one from Advance Auto for about 30 minutes before I realized it was half way between vacuum and pressure.

The lower shock mount is the same bolt as the control arm. These are a pain to remove. Use lots of PB Blaster and maybe some heat. Try not to beat on them too much.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Change all six universals if you don't know their service history or there is a question of their condition. Find out WHY the strut rod is bent and fix the root cause, not add more bandaids.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Change all six universals if you don't know their service history or there is a question of their condition. Find out WHY the strut rod is bent and fix the root cause, not add more bandaids.
I agree, don't give Murphy any more opportunities. I've heard some alignment shops have been known to heat up the strut rod and bend it to align the rear.
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Just be sure that whoever does the half shafts, knows how to do Corvette ones. The outer haft shaft u-joint flanges and u-joints are often screwed up by people who've never done them before, or don't know how to do them properly. The flange needs to be bolted to a plate, workbench, the spindle flange or something else to properly install the u-joint.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Change all six universals if you don't know their service history or there is a question of their condition. Find out WHY the strut rod is bent and fix the root cause, not add more bandaids.
- in addition, they sometimes use to do rear alignments by bending the strut rod(s). One of mine was bent and that's what I figured happened. I replaced mine (FWIW) with the heym rods sold by VBP - and this weekend will use the Seals-It seals on them.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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well i installed and gravity bleed my new calipers yesterday,the rears blead easily, the fronts needed some help getting the fluid rolling,so i used the vacuum gun from harbor freight to pull the fluid through,worked good and fast,then gravity blead them too, all seems good so far,but i wish i had more grabbing power up front,it just seems a bit weak,i just got to learn to live with it,there not power brakes. also my strut rod is not bent,its cocked or just very slightly off level at the inner pass.bracket, i think all it needs is a new bushing. plus, i wiped off the inner half shaft that i thought might have been leaking,and found a grease fitting in there, so im hoping the old owner had just greased it, and didnt wipe it clean,the grease looked fresh,so ill keep a close eye on it. thank you all,, tom
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Old May 8, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tomgallucci57
also my strut rod is not bent,its cocked or just very slightly off level at the inner pass.bracket, i think all it needs is a new bushing.
Got a pic?
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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naw,still a bit too high tech for me,but it looks like the bushing may be worn,letting the rod end tilt just a tad. but, come to think of it,the rod might have twisted.makes me think its time for new strut rods.corvette central has adjustable ones with poly bushings plus all the hardware for 109.95.probably should just do that,because a worn out bushing wouldnt make the rod end tilt,or not seat level in its bracket. im still not sure yet.thanks though.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 02:01 AM
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Make it easy. Replace all four on the halfshafts with the Spicer brand. Remove the strut rods. Replace the bent one or take it to a machine shop and see if they can straighten it. Some of the old guys can do anything. Use the urethane type bushing that are very easy to install from Vette Brakes and Products.
Then take it to a shop that specializes in Vette alignment. Call your local Corvette Clubs if you don't know.

Part # 32051 at bottom pf page
http://www.vbandp.com/Our%20Catalog/source/page_25.htm

Last edited by Steve COSD; May 9, 2010 at 02:16 AM.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by tomgallucci57
naw,still a bit too high tech for me,but it looks like the bushing may be worn,letting the rod end tilt just a tad. but, come to think of it,the rod might have twisted.makes me think its time for new strut rods.corvette central has adjustable ones with poly bushings plus all the hardware for 109.95.probably should just do that,because a worn out bushing wouldnt make the rod end tilt,or not seat level in its bracket. im still not sure yet.thanks though.
Poly bushings are a dumb idea in this location. The struts need to twist along their length during normal movement of the suspension. Rubber bushings allow this, poly doesn't.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Just put the bent rod on the concrete floor and hit it with a hammer to straighten it, it's not rocket science and they're not that tough. If you got extra money that needs spending then go with the fancy strut rods, but the original style is fine on thousands of vettes for millions of miles. But then I'm a cheapskate.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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everyones thinking my strut rod is bent,but its not,it appears to be slightly twisted in its inner mount where the bolt goes thru.it almost looks normal until you get a good look at it,then you can see its not setting level,its like the bushing is worn on one end letting it not seat level on the bolt,,i think its twisted at the end,maybe from someone doing a super bunrout. i dont have torches to heat the end and twist it back an 1/8 inch. the passenger side sets in its perch level...probably just get a new one before i get an alightment. thanks again,,, tom
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Old May 9, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tomgallucci57
everyones thinking my strut rod is bent,but its not,it appears to be slightly twisted in its inner mount where the bolt goes thru.it almost looks normal until you get a good look at it,then you can see its not setting level,its like the bushing is worn on one end letting it not seat level on the bolt,,i think its twisted at the end,maybe from someone doing a super bunrout. i dont have torches to heat the end and twist it back an 1/8 inch. the passenger side sets in its perch level...probably just get a new one before i get an alightment. thanks again,,, tom
If it's cocked at one end only, it is definitely twisted otherwise both ends would be cocked in the same direction.
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