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Its been about a year since I first purchased my girl and I've slowly been able to get her to drivable state.
Now that she is purring, braking, and saftey-wise (headlights, signals, horn, etc.) working I decided it was time for a trip to the alignment shop.
(For the quick read skip to the ******* and follow the bullet points)
The shop replaced a few of my rear bushings due to initially finding my rear control arms damaged from the previous owner not using the lock nut and securing them in place. While they were down there they replaced my trailing arm shims.
Driving home she seemed a little shaky (vibration wise) but nothing out of normal. Figured it might be the tires wearing in from the old out adjusted settings.
A couple days later I was read to take her out and drive her on the highway to see what else needed looking at. As I approached 55 mph, vibrations became more severe, but as soon as I reached 65 they began to mellow out until I reached 70 - 75 and they were very mild.
I had driven to work so I didn't drive her again until 8 hours later. On the way back home the vibrations approaching 55 became much more aggressive and turned down right violent at 65. I quickly slowed down and pulled over. I looked her over. Nothing seemed amiss. I decided to try to get to 70 to see if the problem began to dissipate as it had before.
Sure enough. The vibrations quickly disappeared when I reached 70 - 75 mph. At this point I thought something was wrong with the alignment but was confused as to why it only seemed to manifest around 55 - 65 mph. I came to a stop. Slowing down the vibrations became violent and continued to do so all the way to a stop. I then accelerated with a little gusto and found that from about 0 - 35 no vibrations, 35 - 55 mild vibrations, and upon reaching 55 the vibrations began to get violent.
I stopped, looked the car over, underneath, and couldn't find anything discernibly wrong.
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The best I can figure is that either the alignment is off. Or the alignment has put the drive-train in a bad angle and the engine and differential mounts need to be replaced. Any thoughts?
* 0 - 35 almost no vibration under medium acceleration
* 35 - 55 mild vibration under acceleration
* 55 - 65 violent shaking under cruise and acceleration
* 70 - 75 mild vibration under cruise
* violent shaking under deceleration
* issues only appeared after the 4 wheel alignment
* rear control arms were replaced with new bushings
* new shims installed on the trailing arms
is it front or rear? do the wheels look to be perpendicular? any shaking in the steering? straight line only? could be anything.
Shaking... the whole dang blam car is.. was down right scary when it was violently doing so in the 55 - 65 range and it was on the highway but it shook in a straight way or a curve. Turning of the steering wheel while driving seemed to have no effect on the shaking.
Wheels do look to be straight. The alignment shop has a good reputation.
this maybe simple question......are the wheels balanced??????? what condition are the tires in. it sounds dumb but if it feels fine at low speeds and vibrates at 55 - 65 sound s like a tire balancing issue. just my .02.
Usually flat spots on the wheels are an issue when the vehicle has parked for a long time. This goes away most of the time. I doubt it is the drive train as that would be more of a vibration then a violent shake. Good luck with your problem.
Everyone that pointed me to the tires were on the money. I examined them and noticed almost all had small, almost unnoticeable flat spots. I had to jack the car and spin the wills filling with my hand to even feel them.
Yet, after the tires were off the wheels they deformed to look like my brother's Rottie had played with them.
For some reason the issue was only noticed after an alignment; could have been, as well, that I haven't been driving her at those speeds to possibly notice the problem.
She now has a new set of shoes and is dancing with grace.
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Those flat spots didn't just come with age. Usually ball joints, allignment, tire balance or worn out rubber grommets create the problem. Nicely balanced new tires will mask the problem but the new tires will wear much the same way as the old, and without fixing the suspension, you'll get your cage rattled again.