i want to lower my 72s front end. its a 454 if that matters. the drivers side is a half inch higher than passenger side but i want to lower both sides about 2 and a half inches or so. is this something anyone can do or is this too big a job? can anyone tell me step by step? thanks, nutsy.

 

You will need to remove the coil springs and cut them. There is no set deal that 1 coil lowers so many inches so it is a trial and error type deal. If yo ucut to much your done and will have to install new ones and start over again. I would suggest trying 1/2 coil and see where that goes and adjust from there.

 

how do you remove the coils?

 

Cutting coils is the cheap way, but it will have some affect on the ride quality.

Better way is drop spindles.

 

With coil spring removal tool, like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Strut...motiveQ5fTools

Avner

 

That's external, you need an internal compressor.

 

ok, can you explain how i do this?

 

First off get a shop and a assembly manual, you will ALWAYS need it. I have always believed there are 3 to work on Vetts. 1-the wrong way 2-the Bubba way 3- the correct way. IMO cutting coils falls under #2. it's cheap but just not the correct way to do it and you will still have other issues.
the right way would be spindle drops or a VBP front mono leaf kit if they make one for a 72. with the kit you can adjust the ride height.

but my friend..go get a manual it will help you out so much.

 

no offense to all u guys who used a tool but i hate to break it to you... U DONT NEED IT!!!! i just changed the front springs on my car this morning to raise the front end. all u need to do is take out the shocks, and the tie rod ends. jack up the lower control arm a bit.

then unbolt the lower ball joint and use like a prybar to break the lower ball joint.(u can keep the caliper and rotor on the car) then lower the control arm SLOWLY!!! take the spring right out, cut it and put it in the same way it came out. the spring fits into a grove in the chassis and lower control arm so look out for that. its an easy process it only took me about 3 hours to do mine.

Good luck
Anthony
Before

After

 

I have done many a spring removal and install. The stock coils can be tricky without a compressor but it can be done as said above. The aftermarket coils are shorter and can easily be done without a compressor.

I have also never seen a drop spindle for a C3 Corvette. If there is one out there it is a good way to go as it will not change your spring rate. When you cut the coils the spring rate goes up.

Yes VB does make a transverse front spring for a 72. I have been running one for a couple of years now and it is fully adjustable from ride height to spring rate. Easily adjustable. I can change rate and ride height in about 15 minutes.

 

Nobody torches their front springs anymore ?

 

Here's one way.

 

Ladies and gents: drop spindles for C3's...

http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/chev_spindles.html

 

It looks like you have to add a rotor and possibly a caliper kit to this spindle to get everything to work together so the price will be quite a bit more than the price of the spindle. It would be a lot easier to cut the springs first to see if that produces the desired result. Nice to see someone offering some custom parts for C3's though.



Rick B.

 

I cut a coil from the front springs on my 66 and didnt notice any changes in ride or handling...but I am no J Greenwood,
I used long threaded rod in the shock holes to compress the springs to get them in and out more to it than that but no way would I have been able to just "pop" even the cut spring back in there and get it bolted in without some compression.

My 69 sits way high in front my guess bb springs?
I will cut a coil off and it will be about right and will be free...Bubba? I do not believe so...torching the springs now that is bubba....

Of course I do plan to look into the transverse front spring kit...wanted that years ago...anyone have one for sale they dont want?...

Will the transverse front sping fit with steeroids?

 

Agree with above - I used a drop spindle that I purchased from TRZ Motorsports (similar or mabe the same as the one in the link). It is made for drag racing applications (solid "drag" rotor vs. stock vented rotor). HUGE PITA to make work for the street (non-Corvette vented rotors, custom calipers, had to make brackets to hold the calipers, different wheel bearings, new steering knuckles, etc.). Turned out to be a pretty expensive undertaking. BUT, am very happy with the results for my car. May not suit others though.

I don't think there is anything wrong with cutting the coils to get the look that you want for the street - would recommend mono-spring or drop spindles for racing/drag strip applications. Cutting the coils is definitely trial and error - be prepared. BTW - avatar picture shows my car with cut springs BEFORE the drop spindles and coil overs were added.

 

Another 2" drop spindle option and with big brakes too....see kit 200K2

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincat...ameset006.html

I just installed their 10-56 electric master.

 

I just changed the springs in my '69 with a 502 and no AC. I used these springs:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050G

The car sits exactly how I wanted. The top of the fender well opening is even with the top of the tire.

 

I'm all for cutting the spring.
DONT heat it up, though! In other words, use a grinder with a cut-off wheel.

I cut 1 coil out the first time. Then 1/2coil at a time after that.. Yes, its slow and a PITA...BUT, you will get better results if you go slow and take your time with it.

On another note, when you cut coils, you ARE increasing the spring rate (making it stiffer, in other words). So, to compensate for the 'siffer' spring, You will need to replace your shocks with something that is more up to the task. Stock OE replacements will get worn out pretty quick. Bilstein's would be a good replacement. I've had good luck with those or the KYB GR2's.
Also, you may need to cut your factory bump stops so maintain enough wheel travel so that you are not affecting ride quality any.

 

About the 1/2 inch. Are you sure it's not that the body that's not on flat?
Measure a point on the frame near the front wheels, say the front frame extention, ..is the frame 1/2 inch higher on one side?

Also, you can't do it at home probably, but a frame alignment or suspension alignment shop would want to place a scale under each wheel. For example, what if there's a big weight discrepancy between weight readings under the rear wheels? What I'm suggesting here is that you make sure the frame isn't bent. Maybe you have good reason to believe it isn't?

With a 454 in the nose, the suggestion about just jacking up the lower control arm (with the wheel removed and the front sway bar unbolted), undoing the ball joint (unbolt it from the spindle), then lowering the control arm such that the spring falls loose. The reinstall the frame, essentially do the same actions in reverse, however, when you start to jack up the control arm, the spring will go in sideways and jamb. A few gentle taps with a MFH will align it up, so you can continue jacking.

OH, REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THE FRONT SPRING IS SOOOO MUCH FUN . I removed and replaced each front spring twice. After installing the spring, I needed to start removing the spring to adjust the front end height. At this juncture I took the car to Guldstrand's and had them do it.