1980 door gaps
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
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1980 door gaps
OK gang, door gaps. Specifically, I have a 1980, the front edges are wider at the top than the bottom. Looks like the door has "slid" down the car. Back doesn't look too bad. The belt line shadow is also down in the front. Is this something I could likely fix with a trip to a body shop, ask them to realign the doors? The hinges "feel" ok, there doesn't seem to be any wiggle of give like the pins are worn out. The doors shut well, no hint of the strikers hitting "too low" like the pins might allow if the door was sagging. I know you guys have fought this battle, pointers?
Last edited by c3corvetteman; May 29, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,691
Likes: 833
From: WI
I know what you are saying, I've seen a lot of Corvette doors like this. My doors were like that too before I started out on the bodywork. My hinges needed to be rebuilt anyway, Once I got to the doors, I spent an insane number of hours getting them adjusted just right. Now they're right on the money.
MarkG
MarkG
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
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From: aurora
I had the same gap issue with my 81 fixed it with loosening 6 bolts on the front of the car,
On the frame in front of the front wheels left and right there are a group of 3 large bolts, put a pump jack under the front of the nose (now use your head here not on rubber or fiberglass but on the metal frame of the nose), pump up the nose just a touch then loosen the bolts on both sides of the car. Now pump up the front just a little more and that will close the gap at the top of the door. After you close the gap just a bit, tighten the bolts up and see if this made a difference, it did for me and has been good 3 years now.
Put your hood up during this as you might have to adjust the hood after.
DON’T OVER DO THIS IT WILL CRACK THE FENDERS OR SOMETHING ELSE.
I did this knowing I was taking a chance of large damage you do the same.
Good luck
Todd
On the frame in front of the front wheels left and right there are a group of 3 large bolts, put a pump jack under the front of the nose (now use your head here not on rubber or fiberglass but on the metal frame of the nose), pump up the nose just a touch then loosen the bolts on both sides of the car. Now pump up the front just a little more and that will close the gap at the top of the door. After you close the gap just a bit, tighten the bolts up and see if this made a difference, it did for me and has been good 3 years now.
Put your hood up during this as you might have to adjust the hood after.
DON’T OVER DO THIS IT WILL CRACK THE FENDERS OR SOMETHING ELSE.
I did this knowing I was taking a chance of large damage you do the same.
Good luck
Todd
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,666
Likes: 1
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I had the same gap issue with my 81 fixed it with loosening 6 bolts on the front of the car,
On the frame in front of the front wheels left and right there are a group of 3 large bolts, put a pump jack under the front of the nose (now use your head here not on rubber or fiberglass but on the metal frame of the nose), pump up the nose just a touch then loosen the bolts on both sides of the car. Now pump up the front just a little more and that will close the gap at the top of the door. After you close the gap just a bit, tighten the bolts up and see if this made a difference, it did for me and has been good 3 years now.
Put your hood up during this as you might have to adjust the hood after.
DON’T OVER DO THIS IT WILL CRACK THE FENDERS OR SOMETHING ELSE.
I did this knowing I was taking a chance of large damage you do the same.
Good luck
Todd
On the frame in front of the front wheels left and right there are a group of 3 large bolts, put a pump jack under the front of the nose (now use your head here not on rubber or fiberglass but on the metal frame of the nose), pump up the nose just a touch then loosen the bolts on both sides of the car. Now pump up the front just a little more and that will close the gap at the top of the door. After you close the gap just a bit, tighten the bolts up and see if this made a difference, it did for me and has been good 3 years now.
Put your hood up during this as you might have to adjust the hood after.
DON’T OVER DO THIS IT WILL CRACK THE FENDERS OR SOMETHING ELSE.
I did this knowing I was taking a chance of large damage you do the same.
Good luck
Todd
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
but it fixed mine and every car is different.good luck
Todd
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 98
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From: Carol Stream IL
cargo247 is right on the money. That was my final step. I put new brass spacers on the door hinges which basically did nothing. Then I put new body mounts on and shimmed it a few times. Once I had the car sitting level the door jams aligned near perfect. My last step was cargo247's advice. I tweaked it just a little to get them perfect.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,666
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From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
No,not yet. I plan to install new body mounts in the near future and will attempt this while I'm at it. Thanks for the advice.
I'll have my lawyer contact you if it cracks the glass ...
(just kidding)
My drivers side fender top doesnt align with the hood correctly, im thinking i should be able to get it in alignment with your approach. thanks for the help
I'll have my lawyer contact you if it cracks the glass ...
(just kidding)
My drivers side fender top doesnt align with the hood correctly, im thinking i should be able to get it in alignment with your approach. thanks for the help
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Check the factory bonds on the fenders at the leading edge of the door. If you do the jack-the-nose thing and the gap closes (it often does), the fenders will probably need to be rebonded at the door opening.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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to all who have responded: thank you. I did fell like (looking at the car) that the front end was "down", meaning that if I could somehow "raise" the nose the upper portions of the door gaps would fill. Didn't know if it was 1) moving the doors, 2) adjusting body mounts or 3) something like was mentioned here (jacking up the nose).
My car is no museum piece, I am a hot rodder and might just try it myself, I can't stand to pay someone to do what I can do for myself. Really fearful of getting in over my head, not sure...
Anyway, thank you to all for your guidance, I have received more good info on this forum than any other source ever.
Will post when I try it. This week it will be the monospring front end conversion...
My car is no museum piece, I am a hot rodder and might just try it myself, I can't stand to pay someone to do what I can do for myself. Really fearful of getting in over my head, not sure...
Anyway, thank you to all for your guidance, I have received more good info on this forum than any other source ever.
Will post when I try it. This week it will be the monospring front end conversion...
