AC working after 13 years
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
From: Maroochydore QLD
AC working after 13 years
Well I finally got my AC working today after 13 years of hot drives in the car.
It had a failed lip seal in the compressor and I wanted to convert it to R134 at the same time so out came the compressor, removed clutch and old seal and seated new one, not a job for the feint hearted. Then modified a Holden Commodore VN dryer to replace the old one and replaced all the O rings. Retro fitted new schrader valves and kept the old O tube.
Had the guys at work evacuate the system add some ester oil and charge it with 85% R134 and voila, no leaks and vents got down to 42F at 2200 RPM on a 70F day, very happy with the results and the effort was worth it, winter here now so not so important but looking forward to summer in a few months, never had a cool summer drive yet.
Dennis.
It had a failed lip seal in the compressor and I wanted to convert it to R134 at the same time so out came the compressor, removed clutch and old seal and seated new one, not a job for the feint hearted. Then modified a Holden Commodore VN dryer to replace the old one and replaced all the O rings. Retro fitted new schrader valves and kept the old O tube.
Had the guys at work evacuate the system add some ester oil and charge it with 85% R134 and voila, no leaks and vents got down to 42F at 2200 RPM on a 70F day, very happy with the results and the effort was worth it, winter here now so not so important but looking forward to summer in a few months, never had a cool summer drive yet.
Dennis.
Last edited by Aussie79; Jun 29, 2010 at 05:07 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 445
Likes: 2
From: Thomastown Mississippi
Good job, glad you got it working. I finally fixed mine last year and it sure does make a difference in the summer. I installed new compressor, dryer/accumulator, blower fan, etc. Wife and I drove 100 miles yesterday in 96 degree Mississippi heat and stayed comfortable. It was worth the headache to fix it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Well I finally got my AC working today after 13 years of hot drives in the car.
It had a failed lip seal in the compressor and I wanted to convert it to R134 at the same time so out came the compressor, removed clutch and old seal and seated new one, not a job for the feint hearted. Then modified a Holden Commodore VN dryer to replace the old one and replaced all the O rings. Retro fitted new schrader valves and kept the old O tube.
Had the guys at work evacuate the system add some ester oil and charge it with 85% R134 and voila, no leaks and vents got down to 42F at 2200 RPM on a 70F day, very happy with the results and the effort was worth it, winter here now so not so important but looking forward to summer in a few months, never had a cool summer drive yet.
Dennis.
It had a failed lip seal in the compressor and I wanted to convert it to R134 at the same time so out came the compressor, removed clutch and old seal and seated new one, not a job for the feint hearted. Then modified a Holden Commodore VN dryer to replace the old one and replaced all the O rings. Retro fitted new schrader valves and kept the old O tube.
Had the guys at work evacuate the system add some ester oil and charge it with 85% R134 and voila, no leaks and vents got down to 42F at 2200 RPM on a 70F day, very happy with the results and the effort was worth it, winter here now so not so important but looking forward to summer in a few months, never had a cool summer drive yet.
Dennis.
I too have a '79 and there is a vacuum activated hot water shut off valve on the passenger side of the engine compartment. It takes vacuum to turn off the flow of hot water when the A/C is on. The hot/cold slide lever on the control valve is very sensitive to the valve operation. It must be completely on the left (cold) to shut off the hot water. You can test it by putting a vacuum guage on the hose of the valve and moving the slide lever. The plastic hose at the valve connection is prone to cracking over the years and may cause a loss of vacuum to the valve.
You mentioned you left the old orifice tube in the car. If you ever replace it be careful. They get brittle over the years and can break off in the tube easily and are difficult to get out. There is a tool available to install/remove the tube. You can improve vent temps by installing a modern style variable orifice tube.
