Whats a 427cu engine worth??
I am in a similar case and found a correctly dated 427 early 68 standard bore short block with new pistons, original standard steel crank ,balanced, new L71 camshaft , blank unstamped pad ( not decked , I measured this out ) on E-bay for just about 4 K $.
Yes, I agree that there is a certain risk and I bought this from private.
I was lucky as what I received month later was exactly as advertised, may be better.
A correctly dated good set of L71 heads comes an other 1500 $ , exhaust manifolds 550 , tripower setup , well any price depending on how good it is, but probably 2500 +.
Add the shipping and tax etc and you can make out what the total price will be.
I had the tripower and of course all BB required attachments from my incorrectly dated BB presently installed in the car. Also I could possibly get a couple of thousands $ for my engine ( short block + incorrect dated L71 heads ) .
If you need to buy all attachments for the BB, the price will go out of order and a GM crate engine might be the better deal at the end.
During my long time surge for the correctly dated 321 block , I found many many 512 blocks which are correct for 69.
My problem was the early 68 required casting date that could also fit late 67 and on a 67 , it is so much more worse to fake a BB. So prices for this dated blocks show this.
I will not restamp my blank pad. As little as I know , NCRS deducts only minor points for the stamp pad as long as the block is casting and dated correctly.
Rgds. Günther
No match to me on most investment level cars is no match .........it either is correct / original .......or not.
if it's not, getting it close makes no sense to me at all, nor would it add any value whatsoever that i'm aware of. Put in any 427 if you want a 427, & save yourself a lot of time, grief & cash & not for any type of added value or "INVESTMENT"
I wouldnt invest any more money in a car because it's "ALMOST" original

I'm not trying to pass the car off as a original engined car by finding a correct casting block, rather replacing the missing part with one from the era.
The comment (CFO and investiment) :was "tongue in cheek" largely, as when you have business and mortgages in a slow economy, expenditure on hobbies tend to fall to the bottom of the priority list. You seemed to have taken a literal interpretation.
Guess much of this comes to a personal view point, and for me a 1969 car with period correct components would be more valuable than say the same vehicle with ( in the corvette case) mid 80s truck block!
I am in a similar case and found a correctly dated 427 early 68 standard bore short block with new pistons, original standard steel crank ,balanced, new L71 camshaft , blank unstamped pad ( not decked , I measured this out ) on E-bay for just about 4 K $.
Yes, I agree that there is a certain risk and I bought this from private.
I was lucky as what I received month later was exactly as advertised, may be better.
A correctly dated good set of L71 heads comes an other 1500 $ , exhaust manifolds 550 , tripower setup , well any price depending on how good it is, but probably 2500 +.
Add the shipping and tax etc and you can make out what the total price will be.
I had the tripower and of course all BB required attachments from my incorrectly dated BB presently installed in the car. Also I could possibly get a couple of thousands $ for my engine ( short block + incorrect dated L71 heads ) .
If you need to buy all attachments for the BB, the price will go out of order and a GM crate engine might be the better deal at the end.
During my long time surge for the correctly dated 321 block , I found many many 512 blocks which are correct for 69.
My problem was the early 68 required casting date that could also fit late 67 and on a 67 , it is so much more worse to fake a BB. So prices for this dated blocks show this.
I will not restamp my blank pad. As little as I know , NCRS deducts only minor points for the stamp pad as long as the block is casting and dated correctly.
Rgds. Günther
Regards Richie
Looks most likely my recently purchased 69 was a factory 427 car.
I would like to buy a date coded block for the car.
Apart from e bay, where is the best place to purchase a block / short block assy?
I don't live in the US and have heard of too many issues purchasing used blocks off e bay.
The prices seem to vary lots, what do I need to spend?
I can purchase a local 427 L88 replica for about $7000 US? has alloy heads, L88 spec bottom end, but I would need to modify compression for pump fuel ect
Thanks Richie
2 bolt (390 and 400hp), or 4 bolt (435hp)?
I'm not trying to pass the car off as a original engined car by finding a correct casting block, rather replacing the missing part with one from the era.
The comment (CFO and investiment) :was "tongue in cheek" largely, as when you have business and mortgages in a slow economy, expenditure on hobbies tend to fall to the bottom of the priority list. You seemed to have taken a literal interpretation.
Guess much of this comes to a personal view point, and for me a 1969 car with period correct components would be more valuable than say the same vehicle with ( in the corvette case) mid 80s truck block!

My personal feeling as well.I've owned Corvettes for over 30 years. Had my 70 for over 25 years, bought long before there was an Internet, forums, etc. This forum has been my first real exposure to the world of Corvette enthusiasts, collectors, etc. I'm still absorbing and trying to make sense of the various points of view. I can't say I fully understand the huge importance of a matching serial number on a block vs an otherwise correct block. If it's for originality why is it OK to replace the entire frame? That's the foundation of the vehicle. What if the glass were replaced? It's OK to get glass with period correct markings though it's not original. Technically a forgery. I don't deny the importance of matching numbers in this region, seems to be crucial to many, especially collectors, but it strikes me as a culture which evolved over time. If you take the position that the car is original or not, technically there are no originals out there. Some part had been changed on every car. The matching #s strikes me as an arbitrary standard, easy to verify.
It sounds like the cuture in the area where the OP resides hasn't placed as much importance to the serial numbers, more concerned with correct hardware. No, it is not original, not the same physical unit which left the factory but would be otherwise correct. It may not be original but can still be correct. It's value depends on buyers in his area at the time he may sell. If a buyer isn't interested in having the car judged for originality in a Corvette exclusive show but wants a correct vintage Corvette for a weekend driver, the car this fellow is describing may be a better deal. Cheaper than paying for matching numbers, same car otherwise. Downside is it can't be shown in NCRS or Bloomington shows.












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Regards
My personal feeling as well.I've owned Corvettes for over 30 years. Had my 70 for over 25 years, bought long before there was an Internet, forums, etc. This forum has been my first real exposure to the world of Corvette enthusiasts, collectors, etc. I'm still absorbing and trying to make sense of the various points of view. I can't say I fully understand the huge importance of a matching serial number on a block vs an otherwise correct block. If it's for originality why is it OK to replace the entire frame? That's the foundation of the vehicle. What if the glass were replaced? It's OK to get glass with period correct markings though it's not original. Technically a forgery. I don't deny the importance of matching numbers in this region, seems to be crucial to many, especially collectors, but it strikes me as a culture which evolved over time. If you take the position that the car is original or not, technically there are no originals out there. Some part had been changed on every car. The matching #s strikes me as an arbitrary standard, easy to verify.
It sounds like the cuture in the area where the OP resides hasn't placed as much importance to the serial numbers, more concerned with correct hardware. No, it is not original, not the same physical unit which left the factory but would be otherwise correct. It may not be original but can still be correct. It's value depends on buyers in his area at the time he may sell. If a buyer isn't interested in having the car judged for originality in a Corvette exclusive show but wants a correct vintage Corvette for a weekend driver, the car this fellow is describing may be a better deal. Cheaper than paying for matching numbers, same car otherwise. Downside is it can't be shown in NCRS or Bloomington shows.

I totally agree, they were all built on an assembly line, parts chosen from a parts bin dependent on options.....different if each car was a hand built by one individual!
Shows are not my thing, so no issue there
Regards Richie












