replacing front rotors on 76
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Torquay Devon
replacing front rotors on 76
I have bought some new rotors for the front on my 76 L48.
I have carried out a search on the site but I would seriously appreciate it if any of you knowledgable guys could give me a step by step instruction on replacing the rotors.
I have never been replaced them in 30 years and I would say they could possibly be factory original. I have the Haynes manual and factory sheets but no proper info in either of them.
The hub bearings look in good nick.
Only replacing them because over the years the car has stood for our winters in the U.K. and developed caliper leaks and made a bit of a mess of the calipers. They would'nt scrub up
Thanks in anticipation.
Jamie
I have carried out a search on the site but I would seriously appreciate it if any of you knowledgable guys could give me a step by step instruction on replacing the rotors.
I have never been replaced them in 30 years and I would say they could possibly be factory original. I have the Haynes manual and factory sheets but no proper info in either of them.
The hub bearings look in good nick.
Only replacing them because over the years the car has stood for our winters in the U.K. and developed caliper leaks and made a bit of a mess of the calipers. They would'nt scrub up
Thanks in anticipation.
Jamie
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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Standard advice: don't replace either the front or rear rotors unless they are confirmed to be bad. New rotors will need to be either machined in situ or shimmed to eliminate runout. Original C2/C3 rotors usually outlast the car, bonafide requirement for replacements are rare.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Russell Ontario
St. Jude Donor '09
You can take them to a machine shop and have them do a small cut , then you will see if they need replacing , I did this to mine and they are still in great condition, if you need to replace them let me know I have an article on how to do this, Ron.
Team Owner
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Do the rotors need to be replaced? You can replace leaking calipers without having to replace rotors.
If the bearings appear to be "in good nick" sounds like you've already removed the rotors.
The chassis service manual might help with reassembly.
If the bearings appear to be "in good nick" sounds like you've already removed the rotors.
The chassis service manual might help with reassembly.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Torquay Devon
The old rotors are very rusty, I have tried cleaning them but the rust is embedded, the inside of the cooling fins are also very rusty.
I did'nt think it would be such a complicated job to replace them, but shimming, run off etc. is a place too far. I don't know of anyone who would do that for me. I can't see no shims on the old rotors.
I have replaced the original calipers with new and s/s/ inserts. they are good, it's just the 'lip' seals that leak if left for any period, like over winter.
I have new standard rotors bought in the U.K. still in the box. The old rotars and hubs are all intact and secured together. I can put them back on the car in a couple of minutes if need be.
Is there any method I can use to get the old rotors rust off as it's embedded in.
Thanks,
Jamie
I did'nt think it would be such a complicated job to replace them, but shimming, run off etc. is a place too far. I don't know of anyone who would do that for me. I can't see no shims on the old rotors.
I have replaced the original calipers with new and s/s/ inserts. they are good, it's just the 'lip' seals that leak if left for any period, like over winter.
I have new standard rotors bought in the U.K. still in the box. The old rotars and hubs are all intact and secured together. I can put them back on the car in a couple of minutes if need be.
Is there any method I can use to get the old rotors rust off as it's embedded in.
Thanks,
Jamie
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
If you're in the rust belt i suggest zinc washed rotors.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
The inner surfaces of the rotors on my '68 and my '80 are somewhat rusted. This is normal; it's bare metal. The brakes on both cars work fine. I am sure the rotors have never been hot to the point where a potential loss of cooling due to rust scale was actually needed. If you are autocrossing or otherwise driving in speed events where rotor temperatures actually rise significantly, then you might want to consider keeping them cleaner. For daily driving, no harm done.
Race Director
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Absolutely. The sky is not falling. The new rotors on my daily beater have a grand total of 300Kms on them and already have moderate surface rust, as we had torrential rains last night. The first application of the brakes will wipe that away.If you want to do some work just to feel good, remove the bearings from the hub, tape off the critical surfaces and have the friction surface and cooling slots media blasted.
There is never shims on original factory rotors. The hub and rotor were first assembled with rivets and them machined as a matched set.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Torquay Devon
mike ward, I was asking for sensible advice, not stupid remarks like 'if I want to do some work'
I have a C6 and a Titan LE as well as my C3 so I do know a bit about rust issues on the discs (rotors) thank you.
I have spent a lot of time and cash on the old gal and if something looks crap like these discs then I was looking to replace them. If I can't replace them without all the hassle then I will get them zinc washed as suggested.
I like my yank motors and I look after them, more than I can say for some I've seen in your neck of the woods.
Keep on smilin...
I have a C6 and a Titan LE as well as my C3 so I do know a bit about rust issues on the discs (rotors) thank you.
I have spent a lot of time and cash on the old gal and if something looks crap like these discs then I was looking to replace them. If I can't replace them without all the hassle then I will get them zinc washed as suggested.
I like my yank motors and I look after them, more than I can say for some I've seen in your neck of the woods.
Keep on smilin...
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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mike ward, I was asking for sensible advice, not stupid remarks like 'if I want to do some work'
I have a C6 and a Titan LE as well as my C3 so I do know a bit about rust issues on the discs (rotors) thank you.
I have spent a lot of time and cash on the old gal and if something looks crap like these discs then I was looking to replace them. If I can't replace them without all the hassle then I will get them zinc washed as suggested.
I like my yank motors and I look after them, more than I can say for some I've seen in your neck of the woods.
Keep on smilin...
I have a C6 and a Titan LE as well as my C3 so I do know a bit about rust issues on the discs (rotors) thank you.
I have spent a lot of time and cash on the old gal and if something looks crap like these discs then I was looking to replace them. If I can't replace them without all the hassle then I will get them zinc washed as suggested.
I like my yank motors and I look after them, more than I can say for some I've seen in your neck of the woods.
Keep on smilin...
The alternative advice of getting them blasted to improve physical appearance was a simple solution aimed towards a neophyte home mechanic- which you seem to be.
Not one person has suggested that it's better to replace them rather than repair.
Good luck with getting them 'zinc washed'. Be sure to keep us posted on that adventure.
BTW- I'm not sure why it makes any difference what cars you have or why you feel the need to take a swipe at our friends in the US. I'm sure Mrs. Queen would not be pleased.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Taylor Michigan
Doing this job at home may seem like a lot of work but it can be done with ordinary tools and quite successful. We sold a lot of brake parts to the do-it-your self customers. To replace the rotors you must first separate the hub from the rotor which I`m sure your aware of that problem...no different than many brake systems. We have a machine shop that did this frequently by using a drill cutting the head of the rivets off and using an appropriate drift to drive them out. You will be able to tell when your when to stop drilling as the head of the rivet will run free. Once separated it becomes like a ordinary front wheel drive hub and rotor car. Clean the hub surface and install the new rotor if there not out of round your home free. If they are out of round have your local parts store with a good machine shop true them up with a few thousands cut on both sides....you dont need to replace the hard to find rivets to finish the job.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Torquay Devon
Thanks ironcross and others for the information, just what I was looking for, sensible everyday advice. Do I have to replace the wheel stud nuts, originals, and they look o.k. or is it advisable to replace them.
Racer
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From: Asheville N.C.
Ed
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Clean the hub surface and install the new rotor if there not out of round your home free. If they are out of round have your local parts store with a good machine shop true them up with a few thousands cut on both sides....you dont need to replace the hard to find rivets to finish the job.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Taylor Michigan
maybe, but no one addressed taking the rotors off the hubs with rivets... and hes doing the job not me...your right...the studs for example, driving the studs out is also necessary best done with a brass hammer and the studs could hold both parts together...hell I could go on and on and so could you....I dont like to get on a soap box unless its about those fuken Democrats...mine was only about the rivets remember.....
AEKDB Miami
AEKDB Miami
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I was thinking more about the OP needing to measure runout with the new rotor to determine whether it needs to be corrected or not. This requires securing the rotor to the hub, obtaining and knowing how to use a dial indicator and minimizing initial runout by indexing the rotor. If there is still excessive runout, then the OP would need to choose between shimming the rotor himself, or finding a garage that understands the unique requirements of a C2/C3 hub and rotor set and let them shim the assembly or machine it as a matched set and then retaining the correct indexing in the future.
99.9% of garages on either side of the Atlantic wouldn't have a clue as to what is being discussed as 99.9% of cars including C4/C5/C6 Corvettes or Titan LEs (whatever that is) have no such requirements.
Or, since he's only worried about surface corrosion with his OEM rotors, can simply have the rust removed and be done with it.
I know which path I'd choose.
99.9% of garages on either side of the Atlantic wouldn't have a clue as to what is being discussed as 99.9% of cars including C4/C5/C6 Corvettes or Titan LEs (whatever that is) have no such requirements.
Or, since he's only worried about surface corrosion with his OEM rotors, can simply have the rust removed and be done with it.
I know which path I'd choose.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
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From: Taylor Michigan
I was thinking more about the OP needing to measure runout with the new rotor to determine whether it needs to be corrected or not. This requires securing the rotor to the hub,.................................... ........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ...
obtaining and knowing how to use a dial indicator and minimizing initial runout by indexing the rotor. If there is still excessive runout, then the OP would need to choose between shimming the rotor himself, or finding a garage that understands the unique requirements of a C2/C3 hub and rotor set and let them shim the assembly or machine it as a matched set and then retaining the correct indexing in the future.
99.9% of garages on either side of the Atlantic wouldn't have a clue as to what is being discussed as 99.9% of cars including C4/C5/C6 Corvettes or Titan LEs (whatever that is) have no such requirements.
Or, since he's only worried about surface corrosion with his OEM rotors, can simply have the rust removed and be done with it.
I know which path I'd choose.
obtaining and knowing how to use a dial indicator and minimizing initial runout by indexing the rotor. If there is still excessive runout, then the OP would need to choose between shimming the rotor himself, or finding a garage that understands the unique requirements of a C2/C3 hub and rotor set and let them shim the assembly or machine it as a matched set and then retaining the correct indexing in the future.
99.9% of garages on either side of the Atlantic wouldn't have a clue as to what is being discussed as 99.9% of cars including C4/C5/C6 Corvettes or Titan LEs (whatever that is) have no such requirements.
Or, since he's only worried about surface corrosion with his OEM rotors, can simply have the rust removed and be done with it.
I know which path I'd choose.
...brakes are not a complicated mystery.......we have done hundreds
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Torquay Devon
jeez. what f...kin complications, I just want to put new rotors on because the old rotors have flaky rust embedded all over. Some of the equipment mentioned by our Canadian friend is just not available anywhere here and as he says not in the states or anywhere else, so thats a non starter.
I can understand if the new rotors are not running true or are distorted in anyway then having them machine skimmed would be essential. But if they are running true without being fitted to the hubs, why do I have to go down the road of lathes, shims etc.
The hubs,without new rivets are then put to the rotors with the original wheel studs wheel on, tightened up. Maybe I'm missing something but that seems like common sense now I've had the experts advice. How far wrong am I in what I say?
After what I've read, the rear rotors can be a 'pain'. but they look o.k. as the've never had brake fluid on them I would imagine.
I can understand if the new rotors are not running true or are distorted in anyway then having them machine skimmed would be essential. But if they are running true without being fitted to the hubs, why do I have to go down the road of lathes, shims etc.
The hubs,without new rivets are then put to the rotors with the original wheel studs wheel on, tightened up. Maybe I'm missing something but that seems like common sense now I've had the experts advice. How far wrong am I in what I say?
After what I've read, the rear rotors can be a 'pain'. but they look o.k. as the've never had brake fluid on them I would imagine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,625
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From: Russell Ontario
St. Jude Donor '09
Sorry to disagree with alot of you guys , but I have replaced many rotors on many generations of vettes , and if you get a quality rotor , you don't need balancing and shims, many of them where off shore rotors,"not my choice" and they were still OK
some of these cars are even on the race track, Ron
some of these cars are even on the race track, Ron