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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:04 PM
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Default She started! ...sort of

Afternoon everyone, if you saw my last thread you know that I took out a few engine components and replaced some hoses to check for internal damage etc. Plus I needed to keep myself busy this last week.

So here is a video of my first few attempts to start:
(My account name on photobucket is bmritm01 if you can't get the link to work)

http://s990.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3003.mp4

And feel free to make fun of me for being a dork it was 3am and I was exhausted.

Anyway if you watch the video you see that I get it started for a few moments, it sounds very rough at idle but it did start much to my surprise.

Today when I went over to check on her and replicate this test she won't start, she nearly does but quickly stops and a small plume of white/gray smoke is released from the intake manifold. This smoke is released from a small square bracket with holes in it (it can me seen in photo 19 of that album, at the bottom just under the plenums I would assume is their name)


Any pro's have any ideas or suggestions?


Thanks in advance,
Brandon
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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is that an EGR manifold? if so did you use a plate to block off the EGR?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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sorry but i'm unfamiliar with what an EGR manifold is?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Last edited by Earthquake Driver; Aug 5, 2010 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Default Egr

Exhaust Gas Recirculation is a vacume operated valve on the side of the intake next to the carb. When it is open exhaust gas is allowed back into the intake manifold to reduce pinging. If your car is tuned and running good gas you can get by without it. But if you don't have one you need a plate to block it off. There are passages going into the exhaust and intake so it is a leak on both.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Bob,
That manifold isn't an EGR manifold. That block off plate next to the carb flange on the passenger side is a block off for the choke stove. If he has an EGR manifold, the EGR valve will be mounted on the passenger side behind the carb, toward the distributor.
From listening to the video that was posted, it sounds like his initial timing is way off. Get it started again, with a timing light on it and adjust the timing before it dies out. Good luck. Let us know what happens.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Duane4238
Bob,
That manifold isn't an EGR manifold. That block off plate next to the carb flange on the passenger side is a block off for the choke stove. If he has an EGR manifold, the EGR valve will be mounted on the passenger side behind the carb, toward the distributor.
From listening to the video that was posted, it sounds like his initial timing is way off. Get it started again, with a timing light on it and adjust the timing before it dies out. Good luck. Let us know what happens.
That is his Manifold, pic is from his album,it not a egr manifold.



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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Duane4238
Bob,
That manifold isn't an EGR manifold. That block off plate next to the carb flange on the passenger side is a block off for the choke stove. If he has an EGR manifold, the EGR valve will be mounted on the passenger side behind the carb, toward the distributor.
From listening to the video that was posted, it sounds like his initial timing is way off. Get it started again, with a timing light on it and adjust the timing before it dies out. Good luck. Let us know what happens.
More or less.
If it was me, I would set the timing buybumping the motor over unitl it is approaching #1 to TDC, stop at about 12* before and then set the distributor to point exactly at the #1 plug wire tower on the cap. Use a turkey baster or something like it to fill the bowels on the carb and then try it. Done many motors like that and it works every time.
A thought, You had the heads off right? I didn't hear the rockers ratling when it started. If you did have them off you may have the valves adjusted to tight. If you didn't then not a problem.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 12:22 AM
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nah I didn't break her down past the heads, just took the manifold off. I was really not confident with the job I did setting the distributor, despite my best efforts I could not get it to set in place and land on the #1 cylinder.

So if my ignition timing is off what is the deal with the smoke coming from my manifold? Is this somehow related to cylinders not firing properly?

Tomorrow afternoon i'll look into redoing my dist.

Thanks for the responses gentlemen, if anyone has anymore ideas let me know.

Thanks,
Brandon
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BrandonRitman
nah I didn't break her down past the heads, just took the manifold off. I was really not confident with the job I did setting the distributor, despite my best efforts I could not get it to set in place and land on the #1 cylinder.

So if my ignition timing is off what is the deal with the smoke coming from my manifold? Is this somehow related to cylinders not firing properly?

Tomorrow afternoon i'll look into redoing my dist.

Thanks for the responses gentlemen, if anyone has anymore ideas let me know.

Thanks,
Brandon
there is a sioux or irokees hidden and wants to surrender? that is why the white smoke...or the since the timing is way off the valve timing is way of and lets the cold engines fumes to escape backwards...
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:06 AM
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Hey all,

Brandon... I think the majority of us will agree it is likely a timing issue.

Be sure to go back over your distrib and trace your spark plug wires back to the correct firing order as well.

You're gonna have to find TDC on #1 cylinder if you want to start off in the right direction.

Just a random Edelbrock guide I googled that includes the basic information with some pretty pictures

HERE

Keep us posted... nothing like turning the key after the jobs done to the sweet sound of success. Although my wife would kill me if I had my flowmasters backed into the garage like that.

Spook
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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I appreciate the reply Spook, and I think there is no longer a question that timing was my issue. I have since altered and fiddled with the distributor. The car will now promptly turn over and start and idle (be it roughly).

I have come to the realization that the use of a timing light is in order, I am currently in the process of acquiring one. Does anyone here have any tips on the use of the device, steps for proper setting etc?

Also, one area of concern, while the car is idling it appears that the engine is overheating, the block gets quite hot and (steam/smoke) is coming off of the exhaust manifolds. Could I rightfully assume this is exhaust not being properly vented due to poor ignition timing?

Thanks again,
Brandon
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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you need to make absolutely sure you have enough coolant in there and no bubbles in the engine. Do you have the thermostat installed? A new one? Popular fix to get the air out is a 1/8" hole drilled in the T-stat. Smoke off the exhaust is normal after some extensive work, oil and the like gets on there and will burn off.
You definately need a Timing Light, there is a sticky at the top of the forum that will tell you all you need to know on timing.
Does your temp gauge work? What did it say?
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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SIXFOOTER Thanks a bunch for mentioning that sticky, it was extremely informative. As far as bubbles go, I have no idea if I have any. The radiator is topped off with brand new coolant. Hole drilling? Sound interesting, would you elaborate?

I currently have not installed my new thermostat because I didn't feel like free flowing coolant would necessarily be a bad thing. I just wanted to get the car running well first.

Before I started this project my temp gauge DID work to the best of my knowledge. But curiously now when I run the engine it just reads the static starting point of 100*. I'm not sure if it's me being overly cautious but it does seem like the engine is running hot. As to why my temp gauge isn't reading properly is a mystery.

Last edited by BrandonRitman; Aug 8, 2010 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Get your timing/vac advance squared away.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...long-post.html

Inadequate spark advance at idle is a major cause of idle and low-speed over heating.
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