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1. Both have been there since at least the late 70's.
2. Both had all the rivets in place when I took tthem apart last month.
3. Both are in real good shape - sandblast and go shape.
One rotor is marked: "MIN. THICK 1.215
The other is marked with just a "K"
1. Both have been there since at least the late 70's.
2. Both had all the rivets in place when I took tthem apart last month.
3. Both are in real good shape - sandblast and go shape.
One rotor is marked: "MIN. THICK 1.215
The other is marked with just a "K"
-W
Both of my originals are marked "MIN. THICK 1.215"
To break the glaze without altering the run-out, like turning it would - of course.
(You also mark the hub position so as to return them to the same orientaion on thier hubs.)
You blast it to de-glaze it. And then you take a wire brush wheel (or sandpaper) to the platters to kill the blast roughness. The end result is a pretty near perfect rotor surface - ready to break in with new pads.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Aug 30, 2010 at 04:42 PM.