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Is this rust normal...?

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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #21  
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...glue...

Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Here is my concern.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Yes the harness goes over the top then down thru the middle. I was going to remove the gages and stuff from the dash pad to re-dye the pad, but it looks a little complicated!

Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Good catch , it does show the grounds. It also shows how in later years the harness runs over the top of the tach and speedo , big improvement.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Default More photos for reference if you need them...

Here's a couple more for reference should you all need them! Got my carpet today too!!!

PS: that's a used cigar below my firewall on the floor. My wife can't see it
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #24  
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If your going to drive it in the rain you need to find where the water has been coming in before it gets worse. JMO
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mar
Yes the harness goes over the top then down thru the middle. I was going to remove the gages and stuff from the dash pad to re-dye the pad, but it looks a little complicated!
Its not bad , take some pics and mark the Inst lights so they go back in the same holes.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #26  
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Maybe before the carpet goes in I can move it outside and use the water hose around the windshield frame and in the wiper tray. I DID notice that there seemed to be water collecting in the trim piece that surrounds the rear view mirror mount. And in addition, the ash tray was very rusty (so much so that I replaced it) and the chrome console piece that the ash tray resides in appeared to have been exposed to water over time. The area behind the pillar posts does not seem to be too bad. It's almost as if water was coming in thru the center T-top seals. Since then I had the T-top seals replaced with 'latex' seals and the only thing I noticed was that they squeaked a lot; I guess because of the inherent stickiness of latex against the chrome T-section and the natural body flex during normal driving. It din not squeak before.

Originally Posted by ...Roger...
If your going to drive it in the rain you need to find where the water has been coming in before it gets worse. JMO
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #27  
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T tops can be a problem but I would bet if you removed the stainless trim at the top of the windshield you'd find leaks between the glass and birdcage. Water lays in that area under the trim and rusts through. The factory should have filled that area so water couldn't collect.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mar
Maybe before the carpet goes in I can move it outside and use the water hose around the windshield frame and in the wiper tray. I DID notice that there seemed to be water collecting in the trim piece that surrounds the rear view mirror mount. And in addition, the ash tray was very rusty (so much so that I replaced it) and the chrome console piece that the ash tray resides in appeared to have been exposed to water over time. The area behind the pillar posts does not seem to be too bad. It's almost as if water was coming in thru the center T-top seals. Since then I had the T-top seals replaced with 'latex' seals and the only thing I noticed was that they squeaked a lot; I guess because of the inherent stickiness of latex against the chrome T-section and the natural body flex during normal driving. It din not squeak before.
If you're getting water dripping from around the rear view mirror mount there's a good chance of a hole in the header on the other side. Not uncommon for cars which spent their lives up north. The header often rusts around the top edge of the windshield. Once a hole has developed water gets into the header (hollow) and travels elsewhere.
I'd give it a water test with a hose and see if this is the case. If you do indeed have a hole, it's not necessarily a huge job to fix providing you've caught it in time. If you plan to keep the car for a while, better to get this resolved before installing new carpets or other interior parts.

Did you take the padding off of the header? If you did, how does it look?

Another source of leaks is a seam at the end of the wiper tub. I found a small gap in mine where a piece of caulk or sealer pulled off. This woudn't cause water to drop around the mirror.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #29  
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Thanks for the advice: Here's what the back section of pillar posts & header trim and header (?) look like?

The 'header' does not look bad??? Or does it?


Originally Posted by BBCorv70
If you're getting water dripping from around the rear view mirror mount there's a good chance of a hole in the header on the other side. Not uncommon for cars which spent their lives up north. The header often rusts around the top edge of the windshield. Once a hole has developed water gets into the header (hollow) and travels elsewhere.
I'd give it a water test with a hose and see if this is the case. If you do indeed have a hole, it's not necessarily a huge job to fix providing you've caught it in time. If you plan to keep the car for a while, better to get this resolved before installing new carpets or other interior parts.

Did you take the padding off of the header? If you did, how does it look?

Another source of leaks is a seam at the end of the wiper tub. I found a small gap in mine where a piece of caulk or sealer pulled off. This woudn't cause water to drop around the mirror.
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Last edited by mar; Sep 9, 2010 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mar
Thanks for the advice: Here's what the back section of pillar posts & header trim and header (?) look like?

The 'header' does not look bad??? Or does it?
I can't tell much from the photo. Appears there's some surface rust on the underside near the mirror. Try the water test and see if any water comes out there. On mine, the rough spots on the header, so far, are the outer ends where they join the corner pieces. The overlapping metal created an ideal place for rust to start. Are your's solid on the ends? Referring the the outer ends of the header.

Water test may be your best bet to diagnose. Your birdcage may be OK, don't want to create undo alarm. Just sharing the experience I'm having with mine.
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 06:32 AM
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I'll remove the T-top chrome finishing and see what's underneath. All the open edges have been sealed with black caulk or rubber sealant, so historically, maybe it has always leaked in that area. What is the best way to reseal it after I get it apart and clean off all the old sealant? Is there a 'sticky' or valuable thread on that subject?
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #32  
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Hey,

Maybe this will inspire you a bit : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...c3-1976-a.html

I've done a complete restore of the interior with my dad. It was great and the car looks amazing now.

Enjoy.

When I look at your pictures, all I can say is, take it all apart, remove all the rust and add a coat of ZINC primer. The birdcage metal I've done with Zinc and POR15 myself.

Take care,
Maarten
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mar
I'll remove the T-top chrome finishing and see what's underneath. All the open edges have been sealed with black caulk or rubber sealant, so historically, maybe it has always leaked in that area. What is the best way to reseal it after I get it apart and clean off all the old sealant? Is there a 'sticky' or valuable thread on that subject?
You probably won't find much rust when taking the T-Top trim off. Take your time, be gentle when prying or lifting. You don't want to kink the trim. There's probably some sealant underneath which tends to hold it down.

If you're referring to sealant between the trim parts, I don't think that's factory. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I believe it's most often there because some prior owner had a leak and was looking for a cheap way to fix it. This doesn't always work and leaves the root problem unresolved.

Once you have the exterior trim parts off of the header and pillars you'll be able to see some of the windshield frame. Top corners are a common rust area.

I'd do a water test to see if it leaks. If it does, the only way to assess the extent of damage will be to remove the windshield and thoroughly clean the framework.
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