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I keep reading about how great a hydroboost system is but I didnt want the spend the 700+ that I was seeing a system retailed for. Then I saw that you can use a unit out of chevy trucks, vans, etc.
I was wondering if something like this is what I am looking for. I know some of this has been covered but it would be great to see a chart somewhere showing what years/models work and what needs to be done to fit them in. I saw the one picture that shows hose routing but thats about it.
Thats right about the same price as a new vacuum power booster. I am getting ready to pull my seats and carpet out to put down insulation so I figured that this would be the perfect time to get to the power booster bolts. Will the above booster work. It looks like it has the correct 4 bolt pattern for the firewall. What about the connection to the brake pedal? Is there a specific year/model that will bolt right in without any modification.
Hydraboost may be the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I keep thinking of all the trucks and vans and Olds diesel cars I've seen with a floor full of power steering fluid. What makes it better now (reliability wise) then it was in 1980?
Never seen anything here about fluid on the floor. Many many many posts though about how great these things are. I never considered it because of the price at the specialty shops but if it can be done for the same price as a new cylinder and booster then Im on.
of course it would say it wont fit righ? its not the oem part. the part number above says it doesnt fit the vette either. i saw someones post on here saying that they used a unit from a 90s era truck so thats the one I looked up.
This is one of the mods I am doing this winter. Do a search here at the forum
and you will find a lot of great info, including hose's and fittings and what year
Astro van to use, I think its a 1994 unit but I would have to re-search to be sure.
I suppose hydroboost is usefull if you have a mountain of engine and can not fit a vacuum booster but I used to haul Corvettes on a 1980's Chevy flatbed truck with hydroboost and I hated it. Sometimes when I turned the steering to full lock while navigating in a tight parking lot or in the shop I would go to step on the brakes and the brake pedal would be rock hard and would not move an inch because all of the hydraulic pressure was going to the steering. I would freak out because I was about to hit something and inadvertently release the steering wheel just a tiny bit as I was focusing on standing on the brake pedal which was not stopping the truck. At this point the brake boost would come full on and the truck would crack to a stop instantly making me think I hit something! I can't tell you how many times I about crapped my pants backing into a shop full of 'vettes and thinking I just hit one of them!
Last edited by skaping; Sep 14, 2010 at 10:01 PM.
Reason: run on sentences
I suppose hydroboost is usefull if you have a mountain of engine and can not fit a vacuum booster but I used to haul Corvettes on a 1980's Chevy flatbed truck with hydroboost and I hated it. Sometimes when I turned the steering to full lock while navigating in a tight parking lot or in the shop I would go to step on the brakes and the brake pedal would be rock hard and would not move an inch because all of the hydraulic pressure was going to the steering. I would freak out because I was about to hit something and inadvertently release the steering wheel just a tiny bit as I was focusing on standing on the brake pedal which was not stopping the truck. At this point the brake boost would come full on and the truck would crack to a stop instantly making me think I hit something! I can't tell you how many times I about crapped my pants backing into a shop full of 'vettes and thinking I just hit one of them!
You simply had a problem with that truck and should have been fixed at that time.
I did the conversion to my '71 2 years ago and been VERY happy with it ever since, mine came off a mid '90s astrovan and I can still get a full service/seals kit from any GM parts store locally.
You need to do a few things beside buying the booster itself :
- Fabricate a mounting plate to suite the bolts/studs in the firewall.
- Modify the clevis pin.
- Do your own flexible lines using some high pressure hoses and fittings.
- You need a '78-'82 master cylinder.
You need to do a few things beside buying the booster itself :
- Fabricate a mounting plate to suite the bolts/studs in the firewall.
- Modify the clevis pin.
- Do your own flexible lines using some high pressure hoses and fittings.
- You need a '78-'82 master cylinder.
I read a little about the mounting plate thing but all I could find was you needed to make one. Is there a unit that just bolts right into the same holes in the firewall without any fabrication? My access to that sort of thing is limited. On the clevis pin again, a lot of info on the NEED to modify it but not a lot on the how. Now I am beginning to see why some of the vendors charge 700 bucks for a complete ready to install setup.
This is a very doable conversion and well worth the time and cost to do. I would put it at the top of the list for the mods I have done to mine. I ended up with a total of around $275.00 to do the swap and that is with steel braided lines. The 78-82 POWER break master cylinder difference (I believe) is bore diameter. 1 1\8 verses 1” and the depth of the bore to the piston but that is off the top of my head
Last edited by Theiskell; Sep 15, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
I read a little about the mounting plate thing but all I could find was you needed to make one. Is there a unit that just bolts right into the same holes in the firewall without any fabrication? My access to that sort of thing is limited. On the clevis pin again, a lot of info on the NEED to modify it but not a lot on the how. Now I am beginning to see why some of the vendors charge 700 bucks for a complete ready to install setup.
I paid around $350 for everything, which includes a rebuilt HB unit, now if I bought a used one and did the rebuild myself it might even be $300 or so.
Modifications for the firewall is very minimal if you have a manual brakes, you just need to cut another whole for the rod a little lower than the original one, which is very easy to do (I used a Dremel machine, did the cut in 5 min.).
The rod which will come with the HB unit has a circle end, which you need to cut some threads on its end to screw on your stock pedal clevis.
I forgot to mention that you need to use the lower clevis hole in the pedal and use the upper one for the brake light switch plate, so you have to modify the current plate or buy one thats used in the power brake cars. Of course if you already have power brakes then you don't need to do that.