When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Prelimenary elec circuit test already going wrong?
Hello, just to be sure and before I connect a 12V supply to the car. (power supply 10A max, not a battery)
Before my dash/center console went in, if I measured the resistance between the + & - battery cables in the rear tray it was always 1 : no connection.
Now my dash is in, key in off position and aftermarket parts (radio) not connected I do the same the and the value is 0 : the current can find a path. This shouldn’t be happening is it? Or is it purely due to the clock that there is a closed path between + & - ?
Also the 12 brown is ‘connected’ when the key is in the ACC & ON position through the starter switch. If I put the key in the off position I should also be measuring 1 between the battery positive and the wiper fuse on the fusepanel no? (because now I get 0)
Can't explain it any better, I don't know the correct English terminlogy
Thanks,
Nick
PS I feel so dumb for asking this, but better safe then sorry
I have limited electrical knowledge but went through the same thing with My vette when puting back together.What I found with mine was the power window was allowing no resistance so I disconected it while hooking car up for first time. Also things like power antenna have a constant live power feed at all times. Hope this helps.
I did hook up the 12 volt supply and the first problems started. The keybuzzer is on all the time even with key out door closed. It continues with door open and the courtesy lights dont light up. Furthermore the clock isnt working although its a new quartz one and the oil gauge turns counterclock wist to approx 300 degrees.
This is so depressing
Nick