Brake caliper question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Brake caliper question
I just put new (rebuilt) calipers on all four wheels. All went on fairly easily except for the right rear. It was very snug and took a little pounding with my fist it to get to drop over the rotor the caliper were loaded. I have only backed the car in and out of the drive as it’s not road worthy yet but when I pushed the car while in the garage notice that it did not roll freely and it sounded like it was rubbing the rotor. Will this “break in” I have nothing to compare it to as the car did not have calipers when I got it.
Thanks Scott
Thanks Scott
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Hello Roger
No I did not change the rotors yet. They appear to be in ok shape. The fronts are still the original with the factory rivets. I have plans to replace them its just they are not at the top of the list yet and not all that hard to do later. After a year I finally have this project where I can drive it in and out of the garage.
Thanks
Scott
No I did not change the rotors yet. They appear to be in ok shape. The fronts are still the original with the factory rivets. I have plans to replace them its just they are not at the top of the list yet and not all that hard to do later. After a year I finally have this project where I can drive it in and out of the garage.
Thanks
Scott
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
The reason I ask is that a "front" rotor installed on the rear will rub the caliper.
If the rr caliper is not centered over the rotor the caliper mount could be bent.
edit-oops Muskegon beat me to it , i'm a slow typer
If the rr caliper is not centered over the rotor the caliper mount could be bent.
edit-oops Muskegon beat me to it , i'm a slow typer
Last edited by ...Roger...; Oct 13, 2010 at 07:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I little update. On my way out the door this morning I took a look at the caliper where it bolts to the bracket. I torque this down last night thinking maybe this was the problem. The lock washers on the bolts are not compressed it appears that the bolts are not setting all the way in( no not cross threaded) . They screw down ok and then feel like they are tight but are not tight against the caliper. Is it possible that the bolts are to long? They are new from one of our forum venders.
It was the same thing on the driverside. Really hard to torque all the way down.
Thanks Scott
It was the same thing on the driverside. Really hard to torque all the way down.
Thanks Scott
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I guess anything is possible I will take another look. The driver side appears to be ok. The one thing that sticks in mind is how tight the loaded caliper was sliding down over the rotor before I even started bolting it up.
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott
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Team Owner
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Corvette brake pads are in contact with the rotors at all times. It is not out of the ordinary to hear regular pad drag when pushing one, especially with new pads installed. It isn't much, but you can hear it. It should not make the car difficult to push.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Is it possible that the bolts are a little too long and are hitting the parking brake plate or the treads do not go far enough up the bolt to pull the caliper into the mounting bracket. I am thinking that the bolts just are not pulling the caliper tight against the mounting bracket. I used two different suppliers for the bolts one for the front and another for the rear the front are fine. I think I will try a few washers in front of the lock washer to see what will happen. I do not suspect that it is a front rotor on the rear as they do show signs of wear I will check for the PB adjustment hole ( ya I know… Bubba has been all over this car and I should not rule anything out) . I really hope that it’s not a bent bracket that looks real inconvenient to replace. hope I have a chance to look at it again tonight if not it will be next Monday.
Thanks for everyone’s help I will post back what I find
Scott
Bolt is 1and 1/8th
Thanks for everyone’s help I will post back what I find
Scott
Bolt is 1and 1/8th
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Good idea to back it up with washers to test. Its possible the other bolts were shorter and the threads have some rust and crud in them , the newer slightly longer bolts stop at the crud. If the washers work , take the bolts out and run a tap in to clean the threads.
1 1/8 is good
1 1/8 is good
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Bluffdale Utah
If the bolt is too long it will hit the rear side of the rotor. In fact, even the correct bolt is likely to hit if the lock washer is absent. You should be able to shine a flashlight down the back side of the rotor to validate the bolt isn't hitting.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
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From: Vero Beach FL
Problem solved! After shinning a flashlight on the inside of the caliper I could see that the bolt was not coming through the caliper bracket. I took the caliper off and sure enough the back side of the caliper bracket bolt hole was plugged up with rust and corrosion. I took some PB blaster and a wire brush (from my gun cleaning kit) in a drill and cleaned it out. Bolted everything back up bleed the brakes and the car rolls with push of a hand and stops when the brake are applied.
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions
Scott
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions
Scott
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
From: Bluffdale Utah
Problem solved! After shinning a flashlight on the inside of the caliper I could see that the bolt was not coming through the caliper bracket. I took the caliper off and sure enough the back side of the caliper bracket bolt hole was plugged up with rust and corrosion. I took some PB blaster and a wire brush (from my gun cleaning kit) in a drill and cleaned it out. Bolted everything back up bleed the brakes and the car rolls with push of a hand and stops when the brake are applied.
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions
Scott
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions
Scott
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thanks,
david
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From: Out Where the Buses Don't Run, Eglin AFB/ Niceville FL
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No. Only if a caliper is stuck and adding extreme pressure to the pads or you drive with your foot on the brake pedal all of the time. Disc brakes were designed to have a slight pad to rotor contact. That's why they're better in the wet than drum brakes.
