Speedometer Cable replacement
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Nothing complicated, biggest issue is room to work.
The cable is held on the back of the speedometer by a spring clip. Press the tab on the clip toward the speedometer to release the cable.
Disconnect at the transmission end, a retainer ring which unscrews.
Pull the housing out of retainer clips and pull the cable out from the engine compartment side of the firewall. The grommet will probably come out of the firewall with the cable. Transfer the grommet to the new cable and reverse the process. When doing final adjustments, keep the slack in the engine compartment down. I pulled the slack into the area behind the dash. Reason being I wanted to be sure the cable didn't droop anywhere and make contact with the exhaust pipe or manifold. Excess heat will ruin the cable.
Biggest hassle is room behind the dash. I have my entire dash out, doing other work.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
Speedometer Cable
thanks for such a quick response - building on the question....will i need to partially or fully remove my dash to access the back of the speedometer (to get to the cable)...or is there a way to do so without tearing it all apart. thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
You need room to get your hand in there to press down on the spring clip to release the cable. The new one should snap in place when you install. It may depend on how big you hands are and whether you have A/C. I haven't tried it on an A/C car.
If you can't reach it with the dash in you may need to remove the bolts holding your steering column up, let it drop a bit, rest the wheel on something to avoid putting all stress on the bearing. Once lowered a bit, remove the screws from the top and sides of the dash panel and tilt it out toward you to gain access from above. Be careful not to pull too hard, the plastic is pretty old. Take your time. Not a job to start if you're in a hurry.
The job is easiest with the left dash panel out but that's a job in itself. Shouldn't be necessary.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 74
From: Palatine, Peoples Republic of Illinois
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
It helps a lot to have a second elbow installed in your arm. I have found it easier to remove the dash pad when working on just about anything in the dash. A lot easier to reach from the top.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
If you have a helper, you can reach under the dash and depress the clip then have another person gently pull on the cable from the outside. One of the hardest parts to me is getting the new cable end through the old firewall grommet.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
A local Corvette shop advised me to buy an AC/Delco reaplcement. Dr Rebuild sells them as well as the repro. I bought the AC/Delco version figuring it may reduce my chances of having to do this again for a while...
