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I wholeheartedly disagree with this statement. I would be willing to bet anyone that a properly set up manual system would have no different stopping distance than a properly set-up power system. It would make no difference in how fast the car stops. It has the same rotors, calipers and pads. Now maybe less effort with the power system. I went from power to manual in my 69 and I like the feel of the manual better. I did use the proper master cylinder bore. If someone feels that the power is that much better, then there must be something else going on in the system.
Bill
When I had the stock manual brakes in the car, the braking system was "blue-printed" to say the least, everything was in tip-top conditions, and yet I felt much better with the hydroboost assistance. Please note that we are talking to the average driver who is USED to drive cars with assisted brakes, I agree that you will end up with the exact same stopping distance, but thats the theory, in the real world, if you are used to press the pedal with lets say 100 PSI of pressure, and your car's pedal needs 200 PSI because it has manual brakes, then chances are you'll only press it half the way and then you'll realize that you need to press it more, these fractions of a second will cost you few tens of feet!, thats EXACTLY what happened to me. I'm not saying manual brakes are bad, I'm just saying that its almost impossible to get used to two different pedal effort at the same time, you'll just be confused.
Anyway, the hydroboost will give you the best of both worlds, the pedal will be hard and will give a much better feel, and you'll still have a power assisted brakes, I'm really sure that anyone who doesn't like the hydroboost, well, he just never tried one in a 'vette!
I wholeheartedly disagree with this statement. I would be willing to bet anyone that a properly set up manual system would have no different stopping distance than a properly set-up power system. It would make no difference in how fast the car stops. It has the same rotors, calipers and pads. Now maybe less effort with the power system. I went from power to manual in my 69 and I like the feel of the manual better. I did use the proper master cylinder bore. If someone feels that the power is that much better, then there must be something else going on in the system.
Bill
At a speed that you can generate enough leg force to lock 'em, the stopping distance should be the same. I would consider an inability to lock my brakes at high speeds a feature, not a bug. The car that stops the fastest is the one that generates the most total friction at all four rotors and tires simultaneously. The difference in leg force between a brake lock and maximum friction is more difficult to gauge with PBs, IMO.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by 69ttop502
I wholeheartedly disagree with this statement. I would be willing to bet anyone that a properly set up manual system would have no different stopping distance than a properly set-up power system. It would make no difference in how fast the car stops. It has the same rotors, calipers and pads. Now maybe less effort with the power system. I went from power to manual in my 69 and I like the feel of the manual better. I did use the proper master cylinder bore. If someone feels that the power is that much better, then there must be something else going on in the system.
Bill
After already having converted my shark to manual transmission and manual steering (both performance enhancements IMCO), I'm very much leaning towards going to manual brakes too. FWIW, the Reynard in my avatar creates a lot more braking energy than our C3's, sans power brakes. If braking isn't satisfactory, there's definitely an issue at hand. Among others, could be improperly turned rotors. Hope you find something simple.
FYI, conversion to or from manual brakes involves a good deal more than simply swapping the MC and re-bending lines.
Again, MOST of the people here just want to enjoy driving their C3s, and these C3s will be much more enjoyable to drive if they have a power steering and power brakes, thats all, you're just promoting manual brakes to the wrong people, thats all!
My BOSS with the LTD is approaching 80 so I wanted it to be safer for him to drive. Today I am going to set up the Holley carb. on his '71 Mustang 429 SCJ. mike...
My BOSS with the LTD is approaching 80 so I wanted it to be safer for him to drive. Today I am going to set up the Holley carb. on his '71 Mustang 429 SCJ. mike...
Thats the problem! .. the guys here assume that your 80 years old boss will autocross his cars every weekend!
Thats the problem! .. the guys here assume that your 80 years old boss will autocross his cars every weekend!
I wasn't assuming that at all. I think I, and others, were taking issue with your statement that power brakes stop faster. I have nothing against power brakes, and every car I've owned in the last 25 years, other than the Corvette, has had power brakes. Personnally I don't find it at all difficult to switch between them. Let's file it under "personal preference."
BTW, I'm hardly an avid autocrosser, having gone less than 3 times in the last 6 months. Our cars in basically stock condition, like mine, aren't very good for this purpose compared to the modern competition. But it has helped me learn alot about the characteristics of the car, it's handling and my driving skills, which is fun for me. When I get serious about autocrossing, I'll find a car more suited for it... like my wife's BWM...heh.
Having had my '68 since being a teen, I have to say that the power brakes in the "other cars" still feels "touchy" to me - my 68 with manual brakes feels "correct".
I have no problem with transitions.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this statement. I would be willing to bet anyone that a properly set up manual system would have no different stopping distance than a properly set-up power system. It would make no difference in how fast the car stops. It has the same rotors, calipers and pads. Now maybe less effort with the power system. I went from power to manual in my 69 and I like the feel of the manual better. I did use the proper master cylinder bore. If someone feels that the power is that much better, then there must be something else going on in the system.
Bill
Are you saying that if my master has a 1" piston I can change the master only with a 1 1/8" piston? Please set my straight on this topic. I would like to retain my manual brakes but also take advantage of a better system if there is a way to do so without converting to a hydro-boost or power system.
If you put a 1 1/8 master on a standard brake car it will be very difficult to stop the car.
Sorry, went back and re-read the post. You are saying that a 1" piston is correct for standard brake (like mine) and the 1 1/8" is for power brakes. I mis-understood what I was reading. I guess I will be fine. Why I was trying to re-invent the wheel (braking syatem) I don't know. Thanks for causing me to go back a re-read the post.