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The racks go on with rubber well nuts. You just drill the holes and then insert the well nuts in the holes. The screws pull the brass nuts up and tighten the rack against the chrome washers which lay on top of the well nuts. This is all done from the top so no need to get at anything from underneath. Just be careful drilling the rear set of holes.
The rubber well nut "swells" when the bolt/screw is tightened, drawing it tight to the panel. The top of the well nut has a flange so it doesn't fall through the hole you put on the deck. It gets "squezzed" when tightened.
I used them as part of a kit to install a right side outside mirror which was not stock on my 76 and they work fantastically...wellnuts...also somewhat of a sealer with the rubber top gasket.
Here is a good tip, get a stainless steel rack, will not rust like the chrome ones. Also if it doesn't come with stainless mounting screws, get stainless ones, will be easier to remove due to lack of rust in the well nut.
I want to buy a luggage rack for my car. But do I need to drop the fuel tank to hook it up ? How do I access's the bolts ?
One thing to consider Walter before you make your purchase: The stainless racks do not come with the pins for securing the t-top brackets. If you plan to buy a set of those brackets so that you can carry your roof on the rack, you will need to buy a chrome rack or a pin kit for the stainless rack.
No disrespect Vette Head, but this post is not about whether you like luggage racks; it's about how they mount.
Originally Posted by Binnie77
...The stainless racks do not come with the pins for securing the t-top brackets. If you plan to buy a set of those brackets so that you can carry your roof on the rack, you will need to buy a chrome rack or a pin kit for the stainless rack...
The 77 V54 racks had the pins and top mounting hardware. Regular dealer installed racks did not have the pins. If you want to carry the tops on the luggage rack, you will need the pins and the top mounting hardware.
I just ordered a stainless steel one with installation hardware from Zip. I've had the car two and a fraction months and like how they add a different dimension to the rear end...won't mind a spot to toss a bag for an overnight as I tend to have the back shelf with a bag of various items in it and it's a place where I can store my tops in their bag if I do take the car for an overnight and have to put them in.
The top brackets work fine without the pins.. I have the 8 post rack... The brackets will fasten tight and not move .... I hear they've been tested over 100mph... I of course don't know about that ...
This one is stainless steel and looks fine on the car. took all of 20 minutes to install or less. Seems quite stable too. In the 76' case the back end slopes down with no real features to it and this adds something to the back. Also makes it easier to put a can of gas on and fill by hand if you happen to need to. Can sit the can on the rack...of course tie a bag on it for travel and I keep my tops then in their bags behind the seats. I'm happy with it. Came from Zip with everything you need, wellnuts, stainless machine screws, etc .
adjusted photos to remove license plate numbers....
Last edited by LancePearson; Dec 10, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
Sorry for the poor photos...car front end is up on the ramps in the garage and the flourescent light wasn't the greatest but you get the idea of the installation. I just kept the plastic on the tubes and with a scratch awl put tape on the body 4 1/4" up from the crease of the bumper and then sat the whole assembly on the flat area, made sure I had the opening around the gas tank lid centered then pushed the awl through the plastic and made a mark in the paint for all 8 holes, got a drill and drilled the fiberglass and put the wellnuts in and stripped the plastic off, put the pieces in and got it adjusted correctly then tightened it down. Easy.
Okay, next question: what kind of tie down straps do you use to fasten luggage down on them, or objects such as your t tops in bags if you do that? I have two terrific straps on the back of my cycle rack that work great but I have to go out and see what brand they are as they beat the heck out of bungee cords.
Bungee cords always worked for me, the metal hooks were always coated in plastic or something and kept from scratching the metal. Cords are made with plastic hooks also. I did a trip once in a 69 with the stuff bungeed on the rack, lasted for over 700 miles.
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