door skin debonding
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
door skin debonding
The drivers side door skin at the top corner has popped loose.Its about 4 inches.There is a gap of about 3 /16th of an inch between the skin and the door frame.I looked inside the door and it dosent look like anyone has replaced the outer skin.It looks like I might be able to clamp back togeather with some resin.The paint on this car is very nice and Im trying to repair it without body work.My question is what to use to re bond it.Fiberglass resin or epoxy.This is a real bummer.I have gotten very attached to this car and I want to make it right.
Last edited by rugerm44; Dec 31, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 733
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam British Columbia
If it was me I would not use fiberglass resin for bonding, but would look to use a proper epoxy panel bonding adhesive. I use and like Fusor 127 EZ but there are a lot of others out there as well. The only time I have used a fiberglass resin for any type of bonding is if I was to mix up my own epoxy adhesive using special fillers and epoxy resin.
ikwhite
ikwhite
The drivers side door skin at the top corner has popped loose.Its about 4 inches.There is a gap of about 3 /16th of an inch between the skin and the door frame.I looked inside the door and it dosent look like anyone has replaced the outer skin.It looks like I might be able to clamp back togeather with some resin.The paint on this car is very nice and Im trying to repair it without body work.My question is what to use to re bond it.Fiberglass resin or epoxy.This is a real bummer.I have gotten very attached to this car and I want to make it right.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
I just hope I can clamp it back up without cracking the paint on the outside of the door.I have some plastic resin clamps with rubber feet that lock when you clamp them down.I tried one last night and it takes considerable force to close up the gap.I also found some stuff called evercoat.Its made for bonding door skins and body panels but dosent say much about bonding fiberglass to metal.I emailed the company to see what they think about it.The further up it gose into the curve part of the door the harder it is to clamp it back up.I would take it to a shop and have it fixed but I dont know of any around here that I would trust.Just dont want to do anymore damaged to it.Man this has realy got me down.I have a ton of work into this car.I looked for five years for one with a good solid rust free frame.Just about everything on it has been redone.I just got thru putting a vintage ac kit on it.All new brakes,booster,mastercylinder.I live in the MS,TN area if anyone knows of a good body shop that dose good work on these cars.I might try it myself and see how it holds up.Just seems like its under a lot of tension when I try to clamp it back up.Looks like my newyear is off to a bad start.Im not going to rest till I get this taken care of.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,246
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
If it was me I would not use fiberglass resin for bonding, but would look to use a proper epoxy panel bonding adhesive. I use and like Fusor 127 EZ but there are a lot of others out there as well. The only time I have used a fiberglass resin for any type of bonding is if I was to mix up my own epoxy adhesive using special fillers and epoxy resin.]
Fusor 127 is bulletproof. I just hope I can clamp it back up without cracking the paint on the outside of the door.I have some plastic resin clamps with rubber feet that lock when you clamp them down.I tried one last night and it takes considerable force to close up the gap.The further up it gose into the curve part of the door the harder it is to clamp it back up.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 833
From: WI
IMO, Fusor would be a waste of money to buy a large quantity for what you need. I have done lots of epoxy repairs on SMC. I use this stuff: #21101 http://simple-fix.com/pages/EPOXIES, which you can get a Farm and Barn and home centers. It works great and will work for your repair.
Fold up a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and carefully slide it between the gap a few times to sand each side. You want to give the epoxy something to 'bite' to. Then blow the dust away with compressed (or caned) air. Mix the epoxy in a small paper cup, apply the carefully allowing to run down into the gap. Then clamp and clean up any excess. You do not need to clamp very tight, so just protect your paint, but remember, you're not trying to clamp the hell out of it. Just clamp it back so the surfaces mate together, don't want to squeeze out every drop of adhesive. If you can't find it, I would just use some JB Weld.
On a side I use the same stuff for general SMC repairs. Been using it for years. It works great. You will not be able to pull it apart. Polyester adhesives of course won't work on SMC.
BTW, I had the same issue with the lower part of my outer door panel separating from the frame. I re-adhered it as outlined above and you'd never be able to tell. That was a few years ago.
Mark G
Fold up a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and carefully slide it between the gap a few times to sand each side. You want to give the epoxy something to 'bite' to. Then blow the dust away with compressed (or caned) air. Mix the epoxy in a small paper cup, apply the carefully allowing to run down into the gap. Then clamp and clean up any excess. You do not need to clamp very tight, so just protect your paint, but remember, you're not trying to clamp the hell out of it. Just clamp it back so the surfaces mate together, don't want to squeeze out every drop of adhesive. If you can't find it, I would just use some JB Weld.
On a side I use the same stuff for general SMC repairs. Been using it for years. It works great. You will not be able to pull it apart. Polyester adhesives of course won't work on SMC.
BTW, I had the same issue with the lower part of my outer door panel separating from the frame. I re-adhered it as outlined above and you'd never be able to tell. That was a few years ago.
Mark G
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
The thing that worries me is the tension this thing is under when I clamp it back down.It dosent like to flex back against the door skin.It dose look like the original bond.I dont know how to post picures but I can add them to my profile pictures to give you guys a look at my problem.I just added them to my photos.thanks for all the suggestions.I just thought I would get some opinons on it before I tackle it.Just dont want to screw my very nice paint job.
Last edited by rugerm44; Jan 1, 2011 at 03:28 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 833
From: WI
Does it require less tension if you remove the weight from the door hinge? In other words, if you support the back of the door with a jack, does it make the gap easier to close?
Secondly, just a thought, but it may not have been installed properly at the factory, or the door frame was bent or tweaked at some point. Maybe the car was in a wreck sometime in it's life. Excess tension finally caused the seam it to separate after several years. Again, just a thought.
Mark
Secondly, just a thought, but it may not have been installed properly at the factory, or the door frame was bent or tweaked at some point. Maybe the car was in a wreck sometime in it's life. Excess tension finally caused the seam it to separate after several years. Again, just a thought.
Mark
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
What epoxy did you use to glue the door?
IMO, Fusor would be a waste of money to buy a large quantity for what you need. I have done lots of epoxy repairs on SMC. I use this stuff: #21101 http://simple-fix.com/pages/EPOXIES, which you can get a Farm and Barn and home centers. It works great and will work for your repair.
Fold up a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and carefully slide it between the gap a few times to sand each side. You want to give the epoxy something to 'bite' to. Then blow the dust away with compressed (or caned) air. Mix the epoxy in a small paper cup, apply the carefully allowing to run down into the gap. Then clamp and clean up any excess. You do not need to clamp very tight, so just protect your paint, but remember, you're not trying to clamp the hell out of it. Just clamp it back so the surfaces mate together, don't want to squeeze out every drop of adhesive. If you can't find it, I would just use some JB Weld.
On a side I use the same stuff for general SMC repairs. Been using it for years. It works great. You will not be able to pull it apart. Polyester adhesives of course won't work on SMC.
BTW, I had the same issue with the lower part of my outer door panel separating from the frame. I re-adhered it as outlined above and you'd never be able to tell. That was a few years ago.
Mark G
Fold up a piece of 80 grit sandpaper and carefully slide it between the gap a few times to sand each side. You want to give the epoxy something to 'bite' to. Then blow the dust away with compressed (or caned) air. Mix the epoxy in a small paper cup, apply the carefully allowing to run down into the gap. Then clamp and clean up any excess. You do not need to clamp very tight, so just protect your paint, but remember, you're not trying to clamp the hell out of it. Just clamp it back so the surfaces mate together, don't want to squeeze out every drop of adhesive. If you can't find it, I would just use some JB Weld.
On a side I use the same stuff for general SMC repairs. Been using it for years. It works great. You will not be able to pull it apart. Polyester adhesives of course won't work on SMC.
BTW, I had the same issue with the lower part of my outer door panel separating from the frame. I re-adhered it as outlined above and you'd never be able to tell. That was a few years ago.
Mark G
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
how good does the door look with the gap behind the door skin? you may want to consider bonding the skin to the door frame across the gap, as opposed to trying to close the gap. if it is pulling away that hard, it is gonna separate again. doors are cheap and easy to find once you decide it is time to upgrade the paint...
Last edited by derekderek; Oct 23, 2019 at 08:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: New York
2017 C3 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '20- '21
Just throwing this out there, but how about using ratcheting straps instead of clamps. They might be kinder to your paint and put a more even amount of pressure on the panel. Just a thought! Ike
