Hello from Finland. Funny (or actually not) i'll order some parts from Zip among headline (bonding adhesive). Surprise, they ansver that shipping company refuce overseas delivering
Have any idea who surely delivery bonding adhesive overseas??

 

I just ordered from this co. You might try them???

http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/nor...ml-p-2241.html

 

Hello,

It's considered hazardous material and shipping via plane is not allowed. You can only get it across by container and ship, but for some bonding paste that is out of the question.

Best next thing you can get here in Europe is 3M 8115, but it has problems of its own as i discovered some time back. The 3M cannot be used on areas that stay visible and are getting covered by paint. The 3M swells with the heat of the sun when the car sits outside and the seams or other spots where you used it will ghostline.
On some occasions (to be more precise the clips that hold the hood insulation carpet in place) showed even on the top of the hood when these were glued in place with the 3M 8115, apparently because of a different rate of expansion between the materials (small note : this was an aftermarket hood, haven't seen this happen with original smc)

For the seams on the outside skin, its best to glass them in with an epoxy resin and matt and sand smooth. Leave enough room for a layer of approximatly 2-3 mm of filler so it stays covered, because i've seen fiberglass repairs show landmaps under the paint after being heated in the paintbooth also.

The least you can say is it will be difficult to get these car to a perfect finish.

 

Hi, I've had heard about M3 and allso Loctite, that they have mobile glue, and it's one posibility if I don't have other posibility. But this "original" glue in my Corvette has property that if you warm it up you can open joint between parts. Do You or anybody else any idea how these M3 or Loctite act?

 

Loctite ???

The 3M 8115 swells when it gets heated and starts showing a ghostline. BTW, the original seams do the same.

 

If really so, then I'll need to find locally store who sell 3M glues. I know that corse 3M is quit common mark here too. And Yes, Locktite has mobile glues too. Qestion is, how thick slit those glues are able to handle? My car has max. almost 10mm slitsYea really.

 

It's not used for repairing a cut in fiberglass. You need something on the back to hold to glue onto. I would repair with matt and resin.

 

Ok. perhaps "slit" isn't a right word. You know when you have to repair your birdcage you need to separate some fiberglass parts. Forexample fiberglass rocker channel from floorpan. So i open glue joint between two fiberglass parts.

 

I use Fusor 127ez for my bonding adhesive, but if you can get Loctite Hysol 9460 I have used it as well and it works well. I am pretty sure the stuff I used was 9460 and I will double check to be sure when I go to my garage this weekend.

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...UID=0000000I71

Here is the Fusor being used to bond a door skin to the door frame.


ikwhite

 

Cannot comment on Loctite.

As for the picture of Ikwith. The doorpanel is excellent for being glued with 3M 8115. The seams can only be viewed from the inside and moreover the sunheat won't touch it or not to the same extend. The rockerchannel panel, B-pillar panel, A-pillar panel and areas were both front and rear sections are glued don't matter as much for the rame reason.

The problem arises when you start glueing side panels to the hood surround or the quarter panels to the rear. In one way or another you will have to get rid of the seam between the top surround and the fender or quarter panel. Originally these were filled with the factory bonding paste (which also starts to ghostline btw) and if you do the repair in the same way, you fill this area with bonding paste too and sand smooth. This area gets heated alot with the sun and the seam and other areas (like screw holes that you fill) that are filled/repaired with the bonding paste will show as a ghostline, appearing with heat, disappearing when the car cools down. This is especially difficult to repair for a painter, since he can only see the problem when the car is heated (ie in the paint booth).

There is not much else to get rid of the seam, it is either covering this area with a small layer (2-3 mm) of filler or glassing it in and covering the glassed are with a layer of filler.

Succes

 

By glassing the seams Belgian is taking about this. I use fusor 127EZ to bond panels, grind out any adhesive at the seam, lay up some West Systems epoxy and fiberglass to fill, sand and fill with filler to remove then sand again. I did not think that this is what you were looking at doing though.














ikwhite