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while bench bleeding the master cylinder (on car returning the fluid back into the reservoir) is it ok to do the front and rear reservoir sections separately?
I thought they would both be active at the same time. When you push in the actuator the back and front bowls should be pumping fluid from the outlet back into the bowls.
You should really remove it and bleed it off the car for best results. Use two hoses and slowly bleed it until you don't get any air returning to the resivour.
...I thought they would both be active at the same time. When you push in the actuator the back and front bowls should be pumping fluid from the outlet back into the bowls...
the reason is was asking was I only had one of the bleeder pipes. thought the bowls were separate.
I'll wait till the kit arrives.
how does it make a difference having the cylinder off the car?
Only difference is it is usually a new one so easy to do it in a vise, sounds like your situation is different, no difference. Use the two tubes and pump away..............................
the reason is was asking was I only had one of the bleeder pipes. thought the bowls were separate.
I'll wait till the kit arrives.
how does it make a difference having the cylinder off the car?
Because the master is tilted upward when installed it is almost impossible to get all the air out.
Here is a cut open view of a master and if you look carefully, you can see a teardrop shape of corrosion from air in front of where each seal would be.
The air will not only promote corrosion, then premature seal failure, but also give a spongy pedal.
When bench bleeding a used master, never push the pistons all the way down, use short strokes that would be less than normal useage.
Because the master is tilted upward when installed it is almost impossible to get all the air out.
Here is a cut open view of a master and if you look carefully, you can see a teardrop shape of corrosion from air in front of where each seal would be.
The air will not only promote corrosion, then premature seal failure, but also give a spongy pedal.
When bench bleeding a used master, never push the pistons all the way down, use short strokes that would be less than normal useage.
Have my car on stands with the rear a fraction higher.
Because the master is tilted upward when installed it is almost impossible to get all the air out.
Never knew that. Mounted my rebuilt MC in the car, filled it with DOT 5 silicone, used both front and rear bleeding tubes, slowly pumped with the pedal to bleed and then let it sit until all the air bubbles were gone. I guess I was lucky and accomplished the impossible. Two years later and my brakes are still solid.
All the manuals I have read said to tilt fwd to bleed one end and tilt it back to bleed the other.I will try anything to get the air out.I still have some in my system somewhere.I put on a mastercylinder and calibers.bench bleed the cylinder and bleed a gallon of dot 5 thru it and stole have too much pedal travel.also slightly spongy pedal.It will lock up the brakes with no problem but I still don't like the feel of the pedal.might still have some air trapped some where.