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steering nuckle removal

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:54 PM
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kubistag76's Avatar
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Default steering nuckle removal

I am just beginning the process of repalcing the front suspension on my 76. Considering most of the componants are still the original from 35 years ago, the disassembly was going reasonably well. I removed the shock absorber. Next I placed a Jack inder the lowere A-Arm. Finally I removed all of the cotter pins and took the castle nuts off or the uper and lower ball joints. As I lowered the jack I was expecting to have the steering nuckle come loose from the ball joints. No such luck. I have tried pounding on it with a rubber mallet, and still no luck. Am i missing something here? Does anyone have any tips?

I am also having trouble getting the tie rod end loose from the steering nuckle. Looking at the AIM i see that there is a rivet at the end of the steering arm. What is it for, and do I need to drill it out in order to replace the tie rod ends? It sure does not seem like I should need to.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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Default Here is one write up

Here is one write up that might help:

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/susp...d.html?Itemid=

I am sure there are others. This write up shows using a pickle fork. Harbor Freight has a front end tool kit with a c shaped press that works better than the pickle fork IMHO.

Good luck and hope this helps.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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The tie rod ends and the upper/lower ball joints are a tapered interference fit.... a press fit.... they don't just come apart unless they are loose due to damage. That's why the "special" tools are required to separate them. Pickle forks can cause collateral damage but are widely used. I use pullers.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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You are close.

http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/p...%20separation/
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by my 76 ray
That was cute but it doesn't always go that easy. The nuts are supposed to be torqued when installed... and virtually nobody torques them... and they end up tighter than necessary... to align the cotter pin... which makes them nearly impossible to remove. The same thing happens with pitman arms. The balljoint studs are tapered, and the holes in the steering knuckle are tapered... they are an "interference fit"... that's why they don't just fall off when the nut is removed. Also... he needs to learn the difference between a "nut" and a "screw". A little confusing in the narration.

I have a OTC pitman arm puller that "just" fits between the two ball joints... and it pops the difficult ones off.... when the "BFH" method fails.

Also... be aware that big-block coil springs are a lot more violent than smallblock springs. A big-block spring sent me to the hospital... you have to deal with them differently.
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