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73 small block-do I replace it?

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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Default 73 small block-do I replace it?

I have a 73 small block in my car that runs great but burns oil and has a noticable leak. I have had all of the easy stuff done to make sure it wasn't the oil plug, pan gasket etc. looks like it will need to go deeper to stop it. Talking with some other vette owners they all tell me that getting a crate engine (350) is the best way to go. Is it worth getting a valve job and seeking out the leak or should I go the new engine route? My plugs keep fouling and I need to do something soon. I live in Boston and can't find anyone that works on vettes any suggestions?
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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Is this engine original to the car? If so, it will behoove you to keep it with the car since it will increase the resale value when (if) you sell it. As a practical matter it's probably cheaper and certainly easier to get a crate engine and drop it in. By the way, there's nothing "unique" about a small block in a Corvette versus any other V8 powered chevy... yes internal parts might be car specific, but the same basic steps are required to rebuild any SBC powerplant. I suspect also that in the Boston area there must be at least a few Corvette specialty shops in operation.... perhaps a Google search will turn one up within a reasonable distance from you.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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If the engine is original, hang on to it. It would then be a matter of deciding if you want to rebuild the original engine or buy a crate engine and keep the original to pass along with the car at resale time.

Is the leak the rear main or front seal?

How many miles on the engine?

Does it puff smoke upon starting but clears up shortly afterward? If it does, it may be valve stem seals.

Trouble with higher mileage engines is if you tighten the top end, valves, the lower end may still be an issue, rings, bearings.

I don't know if you need a Corvette specialist to work on the engine. They're not much different from any other Chevrolet of that vintage.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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First of all I would not take my car to a shop that specialized in Corvettes BUT instead I would take it to an engine rebuilder who only did engines... Around my neck of the woods there are at least 4-5 engine builders who I personally would trust...

Having said that...I'd redo your current engine..either keep it stock of have it "improved" a little.... should be cheaper then buying a Crate engine and will never ever hurt the car IF you wish to sell it ...

Bob G
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BBCorv70
If the engine is original, hang on to it. It would then be a matter of deciding if you want to rebuild the original engine or buy a crate engine and keep the original to pass along with the car at resale time.

Is the leak the rear main or front seal?

How many miles on the engine?

Does it puff smoke upon starting but clears up shortly afterward? If it does, it may be valve stem seals.

Trouble with higher mileage engines is if you tighten the top end, valves, the lower end may still be an issue, rings, bearings.

I don't know if you need a Corvette specialist to work on the engine. They're not much different from any other Chevrolet of that vintage.
Great responses and helps me sort it out. The car is a driver and the engine is for sure a replacement no idea about the miliage. The leak is in the front seal area. The value of this car will never return what I put into it, so resale isn't really an issue. The fact I brought it back from the brink is something I'm proud of. The oil burning and leak are the final big issues in a five year process. I want to do the smart thing and not put too much into this repair (unlike the hundred other things I just did).
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Rebuild your engine. Small block Chevrolets are not rocket science. There are three or four How-To books.

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Marty73
Great responses and helps me sort it out. The car is a driver and the engine is for sure a replacement no idea about the miliage. The leak is in the front seal area. The value of this car will never return what I put into it, so resale isn't really an issue. The fact I brought it back from the brink is something I'm proud of. The oil burning and leak are the final big issues in a five year process. I want to do the smart thing and not put too much into this repair (unlike the hundred other things I just did).
I'm not sure if it's possible to replace the front seal without removing the timing cover. Too bad you did the pan gasket without the seal. Depending on the type of pan gasket you may be able to remove the cover without ruining the pan gasket. To remove the timing cover involves removing the pulleys and balancer. The balancer will require a puller designed for removing harmonic balancers. Water pump needs to come off as well. Once the cover is off the seal isn't hard to replace.

Not knowing how many miles are on the engine I'd wonder if replacing the seal would be the beginning of one thing after another. If it's burning oil, it could be valve guides or stem seals, maybe rings, or could be both. How's the oil pressure? Oil pressure gives you an idea of the condition of the bearings. A compression test may tell you if the rings are worn. Best case for solving the oil burning would be if it only needed valve stem seals.

If you can do some of the work yourself, maybe consider pulling the engine and having a local builder give you a quote to rebuild? I've done an engine entirely myself other than machining, not rocket science but requires patience and attention to detail. For my big block, I opted to remove, disassemble, then have a shop reassemble with new parts after machining . Big block parts get rather expensive, I prefered to let someone who does this everyday work on mine, less chance of forgetting something.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Repairing the front leak is a simple inexpensive repair.
You can replace the front crank seal without removing the cover, Hust pull off the balancer, replace the seal and get a balancer repair sleeve to fix the groove on the balancer.
It will buy you some time to decide what to do, but won't fix the buring issue.
A crate engine is a good choice with a warranty.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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since it is not the original engine you do not have to worry about collector value so I would look at a crate engine unless budget is a major issue. If budget is major, then I would look into quick fixes to stop the leak until you can save for a crate engine.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 02:20 PM
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I would rebuild the engine you have. And then I don't have the old block laying around and in the way.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom73
since it is not the original engine
Heck in that case, it you have the $$$, go crate engine.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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You could always buy a short block and transfer your heads, etc. to it. If you want to be more radical and put in a LS engine look me up and I can show you what's involved. I live ~20 miles south of Boston.



Rick B.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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really, it depends on how long you care the car is down. With a crate engine and a friend or two, it will be down one weekend day. Sell the old engine as a rebuildable core for a couple of hundred bucks.Its spring now, and if time isnt an issue, learn to rebuils a small block chevy.A third choice is buying a used engine out of a running car. Fouling plugs with oil is a used up, time for a rebuild, engine.
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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I had a L48 and ended up with "ohio Crank" and some porting and plishing and extrude honing producing 395/ 440 ft pounds tourque. Probably spent $10.000 but the numbers matching remained and the fun factor was enhanced
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