merc49

im removing everything on the75 chassis to get it painted and the trailing arm bolts are seized.the nuts came off easy and i soaked the bolts with pb blaster for two days and they wont budge.i used a breaker bar ,hammer ,and still nothing .i have a torch but maybe someone knows something i dont.any ideas would be great since i dont want to start using the torch unless i need to.

mds3013

Can you remove the shims? If you can, use a sawzall with a good quality blade and cut the bolt. mike...

GD70

You'll need a sawzall to cut them out. Only way. Get the blades for cutting steel and buy a bunch of them. It may take 1/2 a dozen per side.
Glenn

HerFirstVette

Did you lift the body? If so, you have some options. If the body is still on the chassis it's a different story.

StingrayLust

There are many of use who've been through this before. I spent about 2 days working on mine and was almost ready to give up after going through 7 blades on 1 side and getting nowhere. I started off by cutting the castle nut off and tried punching it out, didn't work. I next tried to cut through the rubber to get to the bolt, didn't work.

I think you need to focus on getting those rusted shims out and then take your saw blade on the exposed bolt where those shims were. I had to take a hammer and chissel to my shims as they were really rusted in. Bending, hammering, chisseling them until I go them loose, focus your chissel point between two of the shims and pound on the chissel to spread them apart. Once I got the shims out, I cut through the bolt in 10 minutes with 1 blade.

merc49

does the bolt get stuck in the frame or in the arm,how thick is the bolt.i havent even tried to take the shims out yet and the body is off the chassis.i was amazed that i got the body off by myself in about two hours and now the arms are kicking my ***.the arms move up and down easy so im thinking the bolt is stuck in the frame.

StingrayLust

Here's what mine looked like when I was at the point of trying to go through the rubber:


I then wised up and went after the shims on the left and right of the arm itself.

HerFirstVette

As long as you have the body off, you can always drill it out. I used a cut off wheel to flush cut the head and threads off the bolt. Then I used a 1/8" drill and stepped it up gradually until the majority of the bolt was gone. I was careful not to drill the frame.

Then once you have the majority of the bolt drill out, you can practically grab the T/A and pull it out.

Search this forum for "trailing arm woes" and you'll find the same discussion

HerFirstVette

Chnaces are it's rusted to both the frame and the inner sleeve in the bushing. The bolt is not as thick as you might expect. I know a lot of guys use the sawzall method but drilling straight down the axis of the bolt seemed to be easier to control than a reciprocating blade in a blind pocket.

Here's the link...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-arm-woes.html

Black C3 Vette

x2, I used my sawzall to cut one of the shims, then I was able to remove all of them. Once they were out it was easy to cut the bolt on either side of the trailing arm. Get the 9" blades, the 6" ones are a little short. Took me 1 blade

Jeffery73

I used an air hammer. One side popped right out. The other side took 15 minutes or so but it was little to no effort.

GD70

This is how one of the TA's looked after it was cut to be remove. Chuck had to dig out the rusted shims first to get to the bolt
Glenn

PUNISHER VETTE

DON"T get normal sawsall blades, even if they are meant for metal cutting as you'll either go through a lot or sit there forever.

Buy the diamond grit type blade, 9" like stated above. it'll last forever and cut surprisingly nice. I don't think i have a photo of the blade but you'll see it at the store...

i had to cut my shock mounts too and got a little tired after a while...

Gordonm

I have been selling Lenox blades for 26 years now so i know a thing or 2 about blades. The diamond blades were designed for cutting cast iron soil pipe. They just pretty much grind there way through. Not the most efficient or best way to cut. Good bimetal blades used with a little cutting fluid and the proper tooth selection will cut through many a trailing arm bolts with one blade I have cut through many a hardened bolt with them. Use a 14 tooth blade if you can get one. A 10 tooth is a little rough but an 18 tooth will work well also. Just use some fluid.

PUNISHER VETTE

You could be right. I bought the Milwaukee brand metal blades which I took to be an okay brand but maybe it wasn't. seemed like they would just overheat in a second and dull quickly.

Seemed like the diamond blade was consistent in cutting which is why I liked it i guess.

I used WD40 for a while as well as regular motor oil I had to try and cool the blades... probably the cause of my overheating...

Gordonm

Milwaukee does make decent blade but it depends on which one you got. Some are better than others. The diamond is a good blade and will do the job just a little slow. Motor oil is actually better than wd40 just something on it to lubricate the blade. Notice I did not say cool. If it is lubed it will not get hot. A variable speed saw is better also and I realize not every one has one of those. Most of the heat is generated from to fast a sawing speed. whatever gets it out and works is the best tool for the job. Just trying to give a little sawing knowledge.

merc49

thanks for the advice,i got them out in 5 mniutes with the torch.i tried the sawzall but after ten minutes i said thats enough of that.being a welder as a trade i saw the fire wrench sitting there doing nothing so i put it to work.granted if the body was on the chassis it would be difficult to get the torch in there without causing a meltdown.now my last item is the control arms,and with no weight on the chassiss and no coil spring compressor, im thinking of dropping a chain through the spring,around the control arms and fastening it together with a bolt and then while loosening the upper ball joint and staying clear letting it pop apart,i know its not the right way but cant think of another way to compress the spring.i had two guys stand on the chassis and the springs didnt budge.ill let you know what happens,if all goes well i wont be replying from the hospital.

1972roadster

Buy the Diablo Carbide Tipped 9" blades. You'll be through both sides in less than 10 minutes!! I used all of those Lenox blades on 1 side. It took over 2 hours! I got the Diablo...LESS THAN 5 MINUTES! BUTTER!

teamo

As the other's have said, buy the good blades. I used the Diablo heavy duty blades and I think I only used one per side. It is a tough job for sure but you have to stick with it. Once you cut the bolt on each side of the arm the bolt remains in the frame will punch out of the holes.

billcarson

wd 40,motor oil or any other standard lubricant is useless in the cutting process.you need a sulfur based cutting oil used in the plumbing industry to cut pipe thread.trust me i know as i was the plumbing foreman for the worlds largest store for 37 years.if other oil was substituted for sulfur based cutting oil the dies would burn up in short order.