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Old May 2, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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Default rearend dissassembly help

i need to dissassemble the rear differential so i can sandblast the case.is there any thing special i need to do or do i just take apart and keep the parts in order.im also going to replace the seals.the rear gears are fine just cleaning and painting.do i need to press anything off such as bearings and is there a crush sleeve that will have to be set.just want to make sure i dont get sand in anything,and that it works afterwards.ive done ford nine inch rears before but never a vette.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 01:30 AM
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Take a look in the archives...there is tons of info on disassembly.

Jeremy
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Old May 3, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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You need to remove the rear cover to take the c-clips off of the half shaft yokes to remove them and replace the seals.

The pinion yoke needs to be removed to replace the seal. There is a crush sleeve. I did not replace the crush sleeve when I changed my seal and everthing is fine. You may or may not be so lucky.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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You were lucky. The pinion crush washer sets the pinion depth against the ring gear.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rugerm44
You were lucky. The pinion crush washer sets the pinion depth against the ring gear.
i think not...
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Old May 3, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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if you mark the pinion bolt and put it back to exactly the same point then all should be well, someone chime in if I am wrong..

also, keep note of exactly how the shims are when replacing..

if you are are putting new gears or new bearings in, ( you probably should if disassembling that far) then you have to go thru setting up the gear lash and the new crush sleeve
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Old May 3, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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The pinion depth (into the ring gear) is fixed with shims; the crush sleeve controls bearing preload. Everything I've ever read says you need a new crush sleeve every time you disassemble, but if you can get preload in spec with the "used" sleeve, why not...? Rotational drag is measured with an in-lb torque wrench on the pinion nut as the sleeve is crushed. Once the rotational drag is within specs, the preload is correct.

If it were me, I'd leave the pinion and carrier alone and in place! Power wash, then wire brush the case exterior instead of sandblast, rustproof and paint. You can get a decent result this way:

BEFORE


AFTER


Then you can replace the seals and you're ready to go. To replace the seals you will need to remove the rear cover and remove the snap rings on the stub axles. Remove the axles and you can replace those seals. To remove the pinion yoke, you'll have to figure out a way to hold the yoke while you remove the pinion nut. Use a steering wheel puller to remove the pinion yoke and you can replace that seal.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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Rally68: Yours cleaned up great.

Last edited by Dustup7T2; May 3, 2011 at 03:44 PM. Reason: add text
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Old May 3, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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thanks for the info,a friend of mine said to mark the pinion nut and reinstall it to the mark just wanted to be safe than sorry.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 06:57 PM
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On either side of the carrier there is a stack of shims. They can be a bear to get back in. GM spreads the case when they install them (new), the rest of us drive them back in with some bar stock and a hammer, and hope for the best. Keep track of which shims came out of each side unless you plan on replacing the bearings, but then the shims you have won't be correct anyway.
I'm with Rally68- unless you're planning on a full rebuild, just clean the case up and paint it. Pop the cover and new seals on the axles and a new pinion seal.
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