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Calipers sticking

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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #1  
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Default Calipers sticking

76 model, pretty much stock car - no special aftermarket parts. A month ago, drove 50 miles and for the last 10 miles or so, figured out (after the fact) that the RR caliper was sticking. It ruined the caliper and rotor.

Had the caliper, rotor and master cylinder replaced plus multiple series of bleeding/driving/bleeding/driving, etc. We felt good about the how the brakes felt, about the bleeding, etc.

Drove the car 15 miles that day, no problem.
A week later, drove it 22 miles, no problem.
Later that day, on the 22 mile return (1/2 way) - the LR caliper started sticking. Allowed it to cool down for 40 min. and made it back with no problems.

3 days later, took a 6 mile drive and only made it 3 miles and the RR (the new caliper) is locking up again. Really bad this time - to the point that the car will not move. Allowed it to cool for 40 minutes and it drove OK for the next 3 miles. On the return 6 miles trip, the LR caliper started sticking this time.

I can easily tell which one is sticking by the smell of the pads and the temperature of the rally wheel center cap.

Any ideas?
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Have you changed the lines... they can colapse and cause the caliper to stick..same ting happeded to me
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ptroxx
Have you changed the lines... they can colapse and cause the caliper to stick..same ting happeded to me
Thanks. Will give that a look next.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Maybe the master cylinder pushrod is adjusted too far out and causing slight pressure on the brakes and not allowing them to release.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Mine had that problem, and I think it was because water had gotten into the brake booster. I replaced the Master Cylinder, and Brake Booster problem solved, the bad fluid had not made it down to the calipers yet. Sometimes it can get into the release valve on the brake booster that is exactly what happened with mine.
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by calif phil
Maybe the master cylinder pushrod is adjusted too far out and causing slight pressure on the brakes and not allowing them to release.
Wouldn't that result in a constant pressure on at least 2 if not all 4 wheels? This is (so far) confined to the rear wheels, but not both at once.

Only had the issue with one side or the other, at different times.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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Just be careful...sticky calipers, are a major cause of many C3s catching fire out on the road. Good luck with your fix.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ptroxx
Have you changed the lines... they can colapse and cause the caliper to stick..same ting happeded to me
Same here, and boy did they smoke trying to get it home.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 08:13 PM
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the idea I have is that the flexible hose could be the source of holding the pads against the rotor by not allowing the caliper to release....
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by garage-ghost
Just be careful...sticky calipers, are a major cause of many C3s catching fire out on the road. Good luck with your fix.
Where is the distribution valve (not the proportioning valve)? Could this be the problem?
A few more test drives and each time, either the LEFT or RIGHT side caliper sticks, but never BOTH.

The last two test drives only resulted in going a few hundred feet (on dead cold brakes) and one of the two calipers locks up enough to bring the car to a halt just like you slammed on the pedal. Then a few seconds later, the caliper releases and it's back to normal - and then the process repeats.
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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The distribution blocks are located in the back corners of the frame where the brake lines turn to go back to rear flex lines. Unless there is material in fluid plugging them they can't be the problem. I would be more suspect of flex lines as allowing it to sit resolves problem. Make sure you bleed enough fluid out of all four calipers to get fresh fluid. If there is a chance that water is in lines.
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