Engine Detailing Experts, Step In!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 903
From: Kentucky
Engine Detailing Experts, Step In!
So, as some of you may have seen, my 1977 coupe was recently painted. If not, I have pictures on my profile. The interior of the car looks brand new as well, but there is one problem with the car still... the engine bay.
The car looks brand new when the hood is down. But when the hood is up, the engine bay is just an eyesore. I am no stranger to detailing the exteriors and interiors of vehicles, but I have never done an engine. I have experimented with no success thus far. So my questions are these: What is the best way to go about cleaning an engine bay? And what products, if any, should I use?
The car looks brand new when the hood is down. But when the hood is up, the engine bay is just an eyesore. I am no stranger to detailing the exteriors and interiors of vehicles, but I have never done an engine. I have experimented with no success thus far. So my questions are these: What is the best way to go about cleaning an engine bay? And what products, if any, should I use?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 903
From: Kentucky
As a side note, that velt looking stuff under the hood it gone and the underside of the hood has been painted. That particular picture of the engine was taken before the recent paint job.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
If you take it down to here you can do just about anything. I would suggest it as a winter project. This all started when the water pump failed Easter Sunday. New cam, lifters, springs and the list goes on. '77 L82. mike...
Ck. back here and you will see what I did and the results.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...alt-mines.html
Ck. back here and you will see what I did and the results.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...alt-mines.html
Last edited by mds3013; Jul 2, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
I am no expert, but have done quite a bit on my engine bay ('79 L82). This does require a lot of time and patience. The best way to do it, is piece by piece. It takes degreasers, brake parts cleaner (but not on rubber or plastic), emery cloth and sand papers, wire brushes of different sizes, lots of rags, and good quality paints if you want it to last, sponge brushes of different sizes, etc. I have found the Eastwood products to be awesome. (I tried others, but weren't as pleased, with one exception). The Eastwood high temp engine paints are excellent for the block and the intake manifold (sponge brushed on). I used Eastwood chassis black (spray) for many of the surrounding parts that were black. I had the valve covers powder coated. I cleaned by hand many, many bolts, and parts and sprayed them with paint. I could go on... but only if you need more detail.
Went from this:
To this (over a very long & persistent period of time)... but still have work to do:
I Tried to keep it a simple Mostly black, but red "accents" theme:
Went from this:
To this (over a very long & persistent period of time)... but still have work to do:
I Tried to keep it a simple Mostly black, but red "accents" theme:
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 632
Likes: 38
From: Roseville CA
So, as some of you may have seen, my 1977 coupe was recently painted. If not, I have pictures on my profile. The interior of the car looks brand new as well, but there is one problem with the car still... the engine bay.
The car looks brand new when the hood is down. But when the hood is up, the engine bay is just an eyesore. I am no stranger to detailing the exteriors and interiors of vehicles, but I have never done an engine. I have experimented with no success thus far. So my questions are these: What is the best way to go about cleaning an engine bay? And what products, if any, should I use?
The car looks brand new when the hood is down. But when the hood is up, the engine bay is just an eyesore. I am no stranger to detailing the exteriors and interiors of vehicles, but I have never done an engine. I have experimented with no success thus far. So my questions are these: What is the best way to go about cleaning an engine bay? And what products, if any, should I use?
Works great on wheels too! 
Tony G
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
Likes: 45
From: detroit area
simple green and some hard tooth brushes.... and a spray bottle with water..... if you can do it without taking anything off (except the air cleaner) then you are good... the moment you take things off, you'll have the engine stripped and ordering parts....
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
i tried the simple green/tooth brush thing a few years ago. it didnt clean as well as i hoped, and the rattle can paint started cracking.
this winter i said the hell with it and pulled the motor out. simple green and wire brushes worked well, and it stripped off all the old paint and oil, right down to the metal. now im getting ready to spray the block and heads with a good degreaset, followed by por15, followed with their engine enamel.
this winter i said the hell with it and pulled the motor out. simple green and wire brushes worked well, and it stripped off all the old paint and oil, right down to the metal. now im getting ready to spray the block and heads with a good degreaset, followed by por15, followed with their engine enamel.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 31
From: Shreveport LA
LA Events Coordinator
I have Adam's waxes & polishes really do a GREAT job.
Check out the videos he has online...
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
Check out the videos he has online...
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Early 77's engines were orange, so if it looks original, it probably was.
Straight Purple Power or any other non petroleum degreaser used multiple times with brushes and multiple water rinses will do a pretty good job. What won't come off or previous overspray can be removed with lacquer thinner.
Note the paint removed from the radiator shroud.
All the wiring required thinner.
Most bolts replaced with stainless.
A lot of it can be done while keeping it drivable.
Be carefull with your paint finish, cover it well.
Straight Purple Power or any other non petroleum degreaser used multiple times with brushes and multiple water rinses will do a pretty good job. What won't come off or previous overspray can be removed with lacquer thinner.
Note the paint removed from the radiator shroud.
All the wiring required thinner.
Most bolts replaced with stainless.
A lot of it can be done while keeping it drivable.
Be carefull with your paint finish, cover it well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,235
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne Australia
I cleaned up my engine bay last winter (Aussie winter) it takes alot of hard work and time, but it is worth it.
my engine was chevy orange but i went for the black look in the clean up and i did it whilst the engine was in, it took alot of effort, but it paid off and i am happy with the results.
my engine was chevy orange but i went for the black look in the clean up and i did it whilst the engine was in, it took alot of effort, but it paid off and i am happy with the results.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
I got tired of trying and just had it powder coated black. Looks real good now.
If I were to do it again, I would try the Plasti-Kote Engine Enamel paints. Excellent quality paint and can be used on many different parts. Heat resistant, of course, and is highly oil & fluid resistant, and doesn't chip or crack.
I found this out later, when painting the oil pan, bell housing, and cover. After painting, I found "curing" the parts in the sun gave them an excellent, hard coating. I even painted the oil pan bolt with it and it didn't even chip when torquing it down.
