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Pretty simple conversion really. The pedal assembly is the biggest PITA. I converted mine last year to a 4 speed and this year changed that to a 5 speed. I believe I have a 69 shift plate.
Lots more than what you listed. I have done this many times and it is veery doable. Bellhousing, clutch linkage or hydraulic lines and throwout bearing. Backup switches and clutch safety switch and a bunch of other small parts. Keisler, American Powertrain, and one other company makes kits ofr this conversion. They list all the parts so you can either get the complete kit from them or source the parts yourself.
Probably best to go with the Keisler 5 speed TKO kit. While seemingly not the cheapest route, sure nice to open the box and have everything there. Know a couple guys that went this route, and would do it again in a heartbeat.
Thanks! I knew there'd be more things on that list. I'll look at the other sites. If you know of a DIYer who's posted his experience, I'd love to read it.
Purchase the 69 assembly instruction manual (AIM) and take a look at the two installations. Your AT frame will not have the bracketry for the clutch and you will need all of that.
Your block must be tapped for the clutch ball stud -- many are, but worth checking.
Shifter holes in the underbody are larger for the AT than they are for the manual trans. AIM shows how much larger the hole was cut.
You may have to drill a couple of holes in the cowl and will need to plug the M40 hole.
New shifter plate is not required. The four speed stuff fits the AT plate.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Agree the pedals are the biggest PITA. And, by all means get an AIM. Wherever possible I would stay with the factory designed layout and pretty much all of the misc bits, and the C3 requires a specific fork. You'll have to properly locate and weld the clutch pivot arm bracket onto the frame. Highly suggest using the lower manual shifter boot (the hidden one that goes beneath the console) as a template for the cut out. One place where you're already ahead of the game, the auto frame has a removable transmission cross-member.
Don't overlook doing your gearing homework in selecting the right box for your needs. Done properly, IMHO this conversion is one of the best mods you'll ever make.
i did it recently on my 78. the drive shaft is different also, (the manual is a bit longer) plus you might want to consider getting lower rear end gears (like to a 3:36 or lower). it's not required, but it will give you better low end performance and unless you are racing the car, you will appreciate the difference just driving it around town. in my case i went with all OEM stuff just like the car would have been built as a 4 speed at the factory instead of the auto it had. i accumulated all the parts in pieces from various sources including a lot of parts help from members here. in addition, i don't believe it was mentioned, but i believe on the 69 the cross member is different between a 69 auto and standard. you will definitely have to cut the tunnel some to accomodate the shifter (the manual corvette shifter is a bit off center) then you will need to fabricate a plate to weld to the tunnel to form the proper shape for the lower shifter boot. just a few things to consider
you will definitely have to cut the tunnel some to accomodate the shifter (the manual corvette shifter is a bit off center) then you will need to fabricate a plate to weld to the tunnel to form the proper shape for the lower shifter boot.
Or glue, if you have a fiberglass floorpan/tunnel on an earlier car.