Wrapping a/c hoses
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 29
From: Texas
Wrapping a/c hoses
Is there any benefit to putting some foam pipe insulation on the aluminum parts of the charge and discharge a/c lines to keep engine heat from being picked up by these lines?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 11
From: AnyTown NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I don't think so...the AC components were designed to work under engine compartment temps and provide conditioned air....if your not getting the desired cooling I would look at the entire system rather than add something that was never there.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I live in Texas, If I can get 1 or 2 degrees colder A/C I am all for it.
I do insulate the cold supply lines only,
you want to retain the cold in the hose.
leave the return/Hot lines UnIsulated, with those you want to loose as much heat, as possible.
Standard Home Insulation will not melt or come off,
I use the split Insulation with glue already inplace.
I do insulate the cold supply lines only,
you want to retain the cold in the hose.
leave the return/Hot lines UnIsulated, with those you want to loose as much heat, as possible.
Standard Home Insulation will not melt or come off,
I use the split Insulation with glue already inplace.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
Standard Home Insulation will not melt or come off
I'm having a problem with that statement. The evaporator cold pipe is about 2" from the exhaust manifold. Ordinary home copper pipe split foam would just melt and leave a crispy mess. Perhaps header wrap would work.
I'm having a problem with that statement. The evaporator cold pipe is about 2" from the exhaust manifold. Ordinary home copper pipe split foam would just melt and leave a crispy mess. Perhaps header wrap would work.
Last edited by Paul L; Jul 21, 2011 at 08:33 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
I got a huge improvement when I wrapped the whole evaporator box with a heat resistant sticky foil (I think it was called zero-clearance), I think GM didn't do a good job having the coldest part of the A/C circuit a fraction of an inch away from the 500*F exhaust manifold!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
I got a huge improvement when I wrapped the whole evaporator box with a heat resistant sticky foil (I think it was called zero-clearance), I think GM didn't do a good job having the coldest part of the A/C circuit a fraction of an inch away from the 500*F exhaust manifold!
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
Likes: 10
From: Winston Salem NC
I put foil on my evap box and added a heat shield. I also wrapped the small cold line going into the evaporator with a spark plug insulating sleeve. It's going to be 100 here today. I will find out later if it helps.
On Wednesday my vent temps were 55-60 in 95deg weather. I am hoping to get lower with these mods.
On Wednesday my vent temps were 55-60 in 95deg weather. I am hoping to get lower with these mods.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 29
From: Texas
I already added the stick on foil thermal shield years ago. Think it helped but before that, had a fiberglass welding blanket hanging with velcro hook handing from the heater hose as a barrier. The stick on is much nicer looking.
The headers can melt exposed pipe wrap. But it just whithers to a small thing rather than a dripping mess, etc. So, put more pipe wrap on and encased it in some very large convoluted tubing I got from work. So far, acts as a nice protection for the foam pipe wrap.
Just wondering what everyone's opinion is on wrapping the return line. Seems like if you kept it from picking up heat from the headers, the condensor would not have to work as hard. Like running your a/c in cooler weather. More effective.
The headers can melt exposed pipe wrap. But it just whithers to a small thing rather than a dripping mess, etc. So, put more pipe wrap on and encased it in some very large convoluted tubing I got from work. So far, acts as a nice protection for the foam pipe wrap.
Just wondering what everyone's opinion is on wrapping the return line. Seems like if you kept it from picking up heat from the headers, the condensor would not have to work as hard. Like running your a/c in cooler weather. More effective.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,666
Likes: 1
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Someone talked about home lines insulated- true, but it is to keep the lines from sweating inside the living space.
My opinion- insulate the evap box walls to keep any added heat to that area. Don't insulate any of the lines, but if you do: DO NOT insulate the discharge line (small line) from the compressor to the condenser.....
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 29
From: Texas
The return (suction- low pressure) line is uninsulated for one main reason- IF any liquid refrig returns past the evap , it should "flash off" under the hood temps befor eit gets to the compressor. Liquid slugging back to the compressor is bad on the compressor valves.
Someone talked about home lines insulated- true, but it is to keep the lines from sweating inside the living space.
My opinion- insulate the evap box walls to keep any added heat to that area. Don't insulate any of the lines, but if you do: DO NOT insulate the discharge line (small line) from the compressor to the condenser.....
Someone talked about home lines insulated- true, but it is to keep the lines from sweating inside the living space.
My opinion- insulate the evap box walls to keep any added heat to that area. Don't insulate any of the lines, but if you do: DO NOT insulate the discharge line (small line) from the compressor to the condenser.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
The return (suction- low pressure) line is uninsulated for one main reason- IF any liquid refrig returns past the evap , it should "flash off" under the hood temps befor eit gets to the compressor. Liquid slugging back to the compressor is bad on the compressor valves.
Someone talked about home lines insulated- true, but it is to keep the lines from sweating inside the living space.
My opinion- insulate the evap box walls to keep any added heat to that area. Don't insulate any of the lines, but if you do: DO NOT insulate the discharge line (small line) from the compressor to the condenser.....
Someone talked about home lines insulated- true, but it is to keep the lines from sweating inside the living space.
My opinion- insulate the evap box walls to keep any added heat to that area. Don't insulate any of the lines, but if you do: DO NOT insulate the discharge line (small line) from the compressor to the condenser.....
