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hey guys really in a bind here...looking at another 1 with these specs but what some of my frinds has told me is to be leary of the gear in rear end...they are saying it might could cause the motor to run more RPMs that i would want and could cause cooling isssues?...here are the specs form car I am considering
Less than 15K miles since extensive restoration (over $ 20K) including:
GM ZZ-3 Crate Engine 345HP
Totally rebuilt 350 transmission with shift kit
All new suspension with upgrades
New brakes(stainless steel) including calipers and pads
New headers and stainless exhaust from engine back(sounds awesome)
New wheels and tires
New headlight actuators
New interior, even replaced seat foam, killer sound system
Vette drives and handles better than new and has more than ample power with the new GM ZZ-3
crate engine.Everything works including the clock,Has ice cold AC,PS,PB,PW,PDL and3:73 positrac rear.
Hmmm, that's kind of a low gear for a non-overdrive car, but it's not ridiculous. I'm sure you will be hearing very soon from some folks who have 4.11s, and just don't drive it much on the highway. The car in question sounds like a good candidate for a 2004r overdrive tranny upgrade.
Two things about that rear end.. First - those are pretty close to racing gears, which means you'll be revving high on the freeway and burning lots of gas.. Take it for a spin and see what speed it'll do before it hits 3000 RPM. 3000 RPM is kind of the magic number where fuel efficiency starts to really fall off. If you can stay below 3000 RPM on the highway you'll burn much less gas. Your gears might be OK but it's close so drive it and see..
Next.. True Posi is a one-piece rear axle. The wheels always turn together - including when you are turning and the wheels need to travel different distances (the wheel on the inside of the circle travels less distance). This will make the wheels chirp, and each chirp is a little less tire.. It can also impact performance around turns since a chirping tire has less grip. But again - drive it and see what you think..
Two things about that rear end.. First - those are pretty close to racing gears, which means you'll be revving high on the freeway and burning lots of gas.. Take it for a spin and see what speed it'll do before it hits 3000 RPM. 3000 RPM is kind of the magic number where fuel efficiency starts to really fall off. If you can stay below 3000 RPM on the highway you'll burn much less gas. Your gears might be OK but it's close so drive it and see..
Next.. True Posi is a one-piece rear axle. The wheels always turn together - including when you are turning and the wheels need to travel different distances (the wheel on the inside of the circle travels less distance). This will make the wheels chirp, and each chirp is a little less tire.. It can also impact performance around turns since a chirping tire has less grip. But again - drive it and see what you think..
You're thinking of a spool rearend, Posi is just short for Posi-Traction, which was Chevy's "brand" of limited-slip differential.
if it's a factory gear set in that car, it's a 3.70, not a 3.73, and that's what is in mine. I drive 2 long road trips in mine each year, both times keeping right up with cars in our caravan with overdrive. Sometimes I'm running over 4000 rpm pushing 80 and above. I don't worry about it, and have no plans to install an overdrive. Granted, if I could afford a 5 spd in place of my 4 spd, I'd do it in a minute, but it's hard to justify 1000's of dollars for a conversion vs. burning some more gas. I'd have to burn a lot of extra gas to justify that cost.
3.7s are normal perf. rear gears. Some of us have run 4.56 & lower full time on the street. If you don't run 100+ on the hwy. cross country you might like the gears.
Cooling issues at speed? I can't see how, with all that air rushing through the radiator. I have had 3.70's for decades with both 350 and lately 302 cubic inch motors. I even removed my engine driven fan and replaced with an electric which only cycles on in traffic during the dog days of summer.
With 27.5" rear tires, I'm turning 32-3500 rpm's at interstate speeds and get 15 mpg. Not terrific, but I can live with it. I'd get way better mileage if I poked along at 55-60 mph. But that's no fun!
hey guys really in a bind here...looking at another 1 with these specs but what some of my frinds has told me is to be leary of the gear in rear end...they are saying it might could cause the motor to run more RPMs that i would want and could cause cooling isssues?...here are the specs form car I am considering
Less than 15K miles since extensive restoration (over $ 20K) including:
GM ZZ-3 Crate Engine 345HP
Totally rebuilt 350 transmission with shift kit
All new suspension with upgrades
New brakes(stainless steel) including calipers and pads
New headers and stainless exhaust from engine back(sounds awesome)
New wheels and tires
New headlight actuators
New interior, even replaced seat foam, killer sound system
Vette drives and handles better than new and has more than ample power with the new GM ZZ-3
crate engine.Everything works including the clock,Has ice cold AC,PS,PB,PW,PDL and3:73 positrac rear.
Your friends are wrong - 3.70:1 is a factory gear in many Corvettes including emissions era cars, that ZZ3 should handle the rpms you will see without blinking, in fact even the wimpiest L-48 could handle those rpms.
Of course I cant comment on how many rpm's you "Want" to run but there is nothing damaging about the rpms you will see with that gear, this is not to say that it wouldnt be more comfortable with an overdrive, or that lower rpm's wouldnt be of benefit when it comes to cooling.
I can tell you my 78 with all its emissions gear never had problems cooling the L-82 with the 3.70:1 rear gears before I put in the overdrive. Corvettes often have cooling issues and its rarely because of gearing.
My 78 L48 will also do about 67 MPH at about 2900 RPM, where I get about the rated 20 MPG. That's not too bad..
They geared the emissions cars down lower to get as much acceleration as possible out of the lower yield engines, but the speed limit back then was only 55.. You won't want to drive 80 on a road trip unless you don't care how much gas you burn.
Just remember that at 3000 or more RPM you start paying a major MPG penalty when you test drive. Get her up to 2900 RPM on the highway and see if that's fast enough for 'efficient' highway use. If it is, you are ok. Or if you can tow it whenever you drive past the end of your driveway... At $4.00 a gallon - these things matter more and more!
It's cheaper and easier to change rear gear ratios than to replace a transmission. If you are concerned about it, you could put a 3.08 in it (that's what I have in my car) if you want. But before you did it, I would encourage you to ask yourself "why?". 3.70 or 3.73 are fine gears for what I do with my car, mostly cruising around my house, rarely sustaining more than 55-60 mph on back roads just having a blast. The 3.08 works fine for that, but so would a 3.73. Last year I went to Carlisle in my car, 350 highway miles, 3000 rpm at 75 mph with the 3.08 would be 3633 rpm with the 3.73. From a "can the engine handle it" standpoint, that isn't bad at all. Any decent engine will handle that all day long. But look at the other side, if I wanted to take my car to the drags, the first thing I would do is swap out that 3.08 for something lower. I think the 3.73 is the better ratio all around, pair it or a 4.11 with a 5 or 6 speed, and you get the best of all worlds.