ok I think I may have found a trade for my jeep. help a C4 guy get a C3.

Its a 1971 all original (exc radio but he does have the orig) matching numbers.

The bad (from our phone conversation):
paint is a 15 footer
AC blows a fuse
right side door handle needs work. must open from inside.
power steering hose leaks
its an auto
mileage is unknown
some gauges dont work

The good:
runs good
surface rust only
new interior
doesnt run hot
new tires
new rear sway bushings
its a driver/fixer upper which is what i am looking for.
its an auto


ok I am going to look at it Sunday. Any advice?
Whats the best way to inspect the birdcage?
most of the issues above I can handle. I can do electrical work and turn my own wrenches usually. I plan on a long term slow and easy restoration so I am trying to get the best bang for my buck.

I assume the suspension will need replacing but it sounds like he has at least done some of it.

How concerned would you be by the mileage issue. This is my first "old" car and I really am not sure how concerned I should be if it really is in decent shape.
I know it will probably need weather stripping and hoses and the usual stuff.

I am thinking if it is about what he says it is then its probably a $13000 car. I was asking 15 for the Jeep but was willing to take 14 so we are not far apart.

 

Ask him to pull the kick panels (either side by the feet. Tap the metal area with a hammer (if there isn't already loose rust flakes laying in the pocket and the owner hasn't vacuumed them out) rust flakes will fall and be visable. This would be the first and easiest place to check for rust. Surface rust is one thing. Rot produces flakes!
see the pile of rust flakes on top of the mount bolt?



here is one that is cleaner and in better shape

 

thanks I will check that out. are these easily pulled out? any tools required?

 

i beleive all you have to do is remove the sill plate. then it will pull out.

 

I just thought of something...
Will I have to run a fuel additive? is unleaded ok?

 

No.

It has to be; it's all you can get. 71 engines are designed to run on 91 octane no lead.

 

You may need a screwdriver & flashlight.

 

yeah I always have some basic tools when I poke around a new car. thanks





Easy Mike, thanks. I know some folks put an additive in their old engines. I suppose it has to do with lubing the valve seals in older engines.

 

Here is a pic he sent me of his cage...

 

A bit washed out but doesn't look bad to me. Mainly surface rust.
Other side the same?

 

he says it is. He also says the pic really doesnt do it justice and some of what looks like rust is probably seamsealer or something similar.
He says the only actual rust is some surface on the bolts.

The guy seems pretty straight up and has gone out of his way to tell me the faults. I am looking fwd to a closer inspection tomorrow.

If anyone is near Summit racing store in ATL tomorrow at 1 come by and say hello. we will be crawling over each others cars.

 

Just a quick question and one intended to help, not harm, so please take it the way I intend it to be received. Can you tell me the plate numbers on the drivers side panel for this car for interior and paint colors? I only ask because overspary in the panel you are looking at appears to be Gold (or yello) and not red. Just confirming all original statement.

On my 71 Barn Find I was able to see rust easily when I looked down into the pillar area next to the windsheild and once removed it was a mess. I knew it but pulled the trigger and bought it anyway. The point is, my panels that you are looking at did give me a warning but not as much as smooping further around the windshield. My winshield area of my birdcage was shot. The panels are not always the best indicator, in my opinion and if you can look around the A-Pillar, windshield, etc. you can begin to see subtle signs if something is wrong. Mine didn't need to be subtle, they were more glaring, but you get my point. Be thorough and enjoy this car if and when you buy it.











If you want to follow my thread for more 71 tips you can find it here.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...barn-find.html
Best regards,
David

 

No offense taken at all. its the kind of info I am looking for. Its probably a bit late for me to ask him to go out to his garage tonight but I will look at the codes tomorrow. is there a chart that shows color vs code?

If it doesnt match it would be a red flag but not a deal killer for me. I'm certainly not looking for a trophy catcher or NCRS car. more of a driver fun timer but want the best bang/buck.

thanks!

 

http://www.100megsfree4.com/corvette/1970/vet71.htm

This will give you some data on the features for 1971, and Corvette Black Book would give you even more data. If you need any assistance identifying data on the plate, engine block, etc. let me know or just ask here on the forum, lots of guys been down this road and would be glad to share.
David

 

great info thanks!

 

You used the term all original.. I count 12 things from your statements or in the pics that are either non original or missing. all original but new interior? all original but new rear sway bushings? If all original is importatnt to you then you need to confirm it is all original.. if you are paying a price based on originality.

 

well to follow up.
I am going to pass on this one. just too many systems need work and I cant crunch the numbers to make sense. I would have to lowball his value and get a chunk of cash in addition. so much so it would probably insult him.

It was overheating when he got there throwing coolant on the ground
The paint was ok but had some gouges and faded pretty bad in back.
The AC compressor was popping the fuse
seats needed going over as the covers were not original. other interior things like door cards, ***** missing etc...
hard starting. carb needs adjusting, also the alternator or starting system needs going over.
smoking a bit so engine needed work
gauges need work, no idea what the mileage was. 29000 was showing.
some other things as well.

I was hoping for a mech sound car that needed some TLC. this was just too many systems needing work.

anyway thanks for the heads up guys. I learned a lot about what I need to look for in a C3. Maybe next time I'll find the right one.

 

Sounds like one to pass over. Too many issues which you won't know how expensive the fixes may be. If I were the seller, I'd fix them before trying to sell unless I was selling really cheap.

 

Sounds to me that the seller is probably not too mechanically inclined, otherwise he'd have fixed most of the issues.