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It appears I need all three vacuum relays. After 41 years, filters all missing, I am not surprised.
Two options are available, reproductions or OEM. The price for OEM is about double.
Question.... Are the OEMs NOS or just supplied through A/C Delco?... If they're not NOS, I'd think there's a chance they're not much better than the others, only a higher price tag.
Anybody had recent experience with either?
There was a thread on this recently but I haven't been able to find it.
You could also try removing the piston and wiping on a thin coat of rtv and reinstalling.
(I can share with you how to get the piston out from the bottom and back in with very little effort.)
Do your existing relays otherwise pass the function test? If so just install some new filters and off you go.
One leaks like a sieve, other two aren't quite as bad. None will hold a vacuum.
Originally Posted by ...Roger...
You could also try removing the piston and wiping on a thin coat of rtv and reinstalling.
(I can share with you how to get the piston out from the bottom and back in with very little effort.)
I read your posting from a while back. I recall needing to trim the stamping off the shaft so the piston will slide over it. You used a modified split pin? I may try a dremel tool with a small file or grinder. Question is once I remove the washer, how do I grab hold of the piston to get it out? Where do I find O rings of that size? How do I reassemble so the washer doesn't fall off?
I may tinker with the worst one if your process seems promising.
Actually you don't have to modify the split pin, just make sure it doesn't remove too much OD on the shaft.
The shaft is .100 , maybe you can leave more diameter with the dremel.
You can grab the piston on its inner metal sleeve with needle nose pliers.
I've found if I hand pick 4-36 nuts I can find ones that will grab the .100 shaft,I put a dab of 2 part epoxy on to make sure the nut stays.
The o-rings I talked about were for the pistons I'm working on but a couple guys here have put o-rings inside the old piston to make it seal better,I'll see if I can find the thread for you.
One other thing. If the piston rubber is hard you will have to use the rtv method and I would recommend putting the piston back in the way it came out. I've found the bore can have up to .002 taper.
One other thing. If the piston rubber is hard you will have to use the rtv method and I would recommend putting the piston back in the way it came out. I've found the bore can have up to .002 taper.
RTV method? Is this the O ring method, insert an O ring to flare the cup out a bit?
I took one apart, not hard at all. It appears the rubber cup doesn't seal well to the cylinder. I may try the O ring approach. Where do I find O rings? NAPA? Is there a standard size I'd request? Never had to buy one before.
In post 6 is the link to the RTV method.
You can get o rings at NAPA , Ace , Lowes and HD. I don't know the size,maybe '75 will chime in with the size.
The closest size O ring I could find at Lowes was a #47, 11/32 x 7/32 x 1/16.
When I tried to use this O ring I found it flared the rubber a bit too much and kept popping out. I trimmed a few to get the diameter down slightly. It worked fairly well, much better than before, but doesn't hold vacuum for more than 15 seconds or so..
What would I expect from a new relay? Should it hold vacuum for a long period? I wonder if we expect some leakage, hence the filter on the end..
I may try the RTV approach next but am starting to lean to buying new ones.