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I changed the passenger rear brake caliper due to leaky piston. Blead the brakes, seemed ok, but they've gone soft again. Blead again, and went soft again a second time. This is the fartherst point from the master cylinder so i didnt think we'd need to bleed the all four callipers. Right or wrong?, or what else could be wrong? This is a 1973, 350.
Last edited by tarheelsoldier; Oct 5, 2011 at 04:39 PM.
I guess it depends how much fluid you lost when the caliper was off. You could try doing the other rear caliper. What bleeding method are you using? Have you tried tapping the caliper with a hammer as you were bleeding to dislodge any air pockets?
Ive not tried hitting the caliper with a hammer as we bleed. But we're just pressing the brake pedal three times still it stiffens, then bleed, close nut upon the fluid stopping and re-pump the pedal. I think before we do anything drastic, i'll bleed the LR calliper and then the RR and see what happens.
Last edited by tarheelsoldier; Oct 5, 2011 at 04:47 PM.
Somewhere in the CF is my sad tale of "helping" a friend bleed his '82 brakes ... We tried his fancy new pump, old style ect Then after several hours we took it to a brake shop....Turns out there was a hairline crack in the master cylinder ....
understood... we'll bleed both rears, left then right, and see where we are then. If theres a break/crack id think we see some fluid leaving the master cylinder or a puddle somewhere.
understood... we'll bleed both rears, left then right, and see where we are then. If theres a break/crack id think we see some fluid leaving the master cylinder or a puddle somewhere.
So did we... There was just enough to allow air to be pulled in ....
I'm gonna put my 2 cents in for a Motive Power bleeder. I had the exact problem on the same caliper on my 79. I bled all 4 calipers, just as much to flush the system as anything, by myself, btw, and to this day, my brakes have never worked so good.
While doing my '69, I gravity fed and bled them first. Then the one person pump and another person bleed way. The brakes worked good, but the pedal was at the bottom. I had a friend come over to bleed them again. He would put pressure on the pedal and I would bleed. Worked OK a couple of times, but then nothing. I started the car and did it while running. Pedal would be hard on the first bleed and then the same as before on the second. Shut the car off and bleed. Turn the car on and bleed. Back and forth on the pedal pressure. No air in the system that I could tell. Once the pedal went hard, I stopped. The brakes continue to be hard and work OK. Sometimes I just don't understand the simplest of things.
The Motive power bleeder was the best investment for Vette brakes that I made.
Another person commented: I'm gonna put my 2 cents in for a Motive Power bleeder. I had the exact problem on the same caliper on my 79. I bled all 4 calipers, just as much to flush the system as anything, by myself, btw, and to this day, my brakes have never worked so good.
Go to their site www.motiveproducts.com and ck them out. Oh also make sure the recommended sequence is followed too. Makes a difference.
Motive Bleeder was the only thing that worked for me. I have done 3 complete C3 brake jobs. And a bazillion other cars (nothing to it). I used low pressure, maybe 10 to 12 psi, and went around twice. Finally I had brakes! Say what you will, but these brakes are difficult to bleed. I consider this bad (and dangerous) design.
Well,, we bled both rears, both inner and outer caliper and the brakes still went soft. I do have a motive products power bleeder and im putting it to use next. We'll bleed all brakes front and rear.
Last edited by tarheelsoldier; Oct 13, 2011 at 05:31 PM.