After the heard the loud scrapping noise from the engine, I did some looking around hoping it was something I can fix easily. Long story short, I took the oil pan out and found “mud” like substance on the bottom of the pan. A year ago when I got this car I took the pan out and clean it and sprayed the bottom of the engine to remove any surface build up so I know I have a clean oil pan to start out with.

I also found some metal shaving, along with small pieces of metal. I am thinking a main or rod bearing has failed. I made planned to get a crate motor and replace this one. Here’s where I cannot make up my mind. I heard if I replace this engine with something different than the stock the value of the car will go down.

I am not showing this car, it is my to and fro work 2-3 days a week. If I install a crate motor and a 5 speed transmission, how close will I get to the market prize for this 1972 LT1 with original motor in it if I decide to sell down the road?

I planned on keeping the original motor and re-build it using some of the latest parts available: EFI kit and aluminum heads, and valve train to accommodate the EFI. Hoping to extract 400-500 out of it, for now I need to have the car running just so I can drive it when want.

During the re-built phase any suggestion on which:
EFI kit
cylinder heads
cam
lifters and rocker arms to get to accommodate the EFI?

Is it worth the effort to send out the original engine and have a reputable company to re-build it? My apologies for the all the question. Thanks in advance.

 

imo time wise and money wise ,i would put in a crate motor.put the other motor in the corner .get what hp that you can afford .put a f.a.s.t injection on it .and go enjoy.

 

If I'm reading your post correctly its an original LT-1 motor. Sounds like you may have serious engine problems there. I know the cams can get wiped out from the lack of zinc in todays oils. If you need to use it as a commuter I would probably go with a good crate engine that has the roller lifters. And I would definitely keep that LT-1. Check out what these cars are selling for, it would surely bring you more money at resale.

 

I'm usually a big fan of crate motors - got one myself. In your case though I'd keep the origional engine. The more you keep it origional , the more $ you'll put back in your pocket when you sell. And you will someday. We all do.
MAYBE I would stroke it and put a mild cam in. And as a bonus you won't have the origional engine to trip over !

 

I am restoring my '69 engine and tranny and placing it in my "Man Cave". I am going to rig up a glass top for it and place a TV on it. My driving engine and tranny may go through several changes and/or replacements depending on my intended level of testosterone.
My vote is for crate.

 

I agree, get a good crate engine and keep the original. Either rebuild the old one at your leisure or just keep it the way it is until your ready to sell the car. Take apart the engine and determine what is actually gone. If just bearings and the crank is still good, you might get away with a cheap rebuild with just bearing, rings and even a new cam. No matter what you do, keep that old engine!!

 

It's the 1972 LT1 with the 11 to 1 compression ratio ?


I can find something just as extreme:

GMPP LS376/515 with a 10.7 to 1 compression ratio

Add carburetor and a MSD ignition controller.

I see pricing starting at $7100.

I don't know how the motor mounts would work out.


Or a first generation small block:

GMPP ZZ4 with 10 to 1 compression ratio, forged crankshaft, and distributor

About $4,000
.
.

 

go to year one site

look at year one crate p/n CT350PC1

make guaranteed 400 hp&tq w/ real dyno sheet, pump gas, roller cam, NOW w/massaged iron DART vortec heads, about 9.7:1 scr, pump gas, good warranty, but even better reputation, LESS than $3000 USD.

do a search: lotsa happy CT350PC1 users over several years.

Engine Specifications:
* Horsepower: 400+
* Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
* Compression ratio: 9.7:1
* Dyno-tested: Yes, includes 8" balancer & 14" flexplate
* Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 5800
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: OE cast iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller with YearOne proprietary specifcations
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Dart Iron Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.04" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
* Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
* Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
* Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...50pc1&SM=1&SC=

only downside I see: bores already +0.040" leaving little room for any subsequent rebore/overhaul ... but for another $3K or so, replace it ... priced a typical overhaul lately?

bag the OE motor, crate for driver

 

Holy smoke!! That is a great deal. Time to do a little further research. I was considering the popular ZZ4 swap as well, but for 3K....

How's the stock SB hood clearance with this?

 

As posted several times in here already... I'm verrrry happy with the ZZ383 via Summit ... and 700R4..Still have the 350 also...

 

crate engines are hard to beat for cost effectivness

 

Bob is a smart man!

Les

 

your results may vary.

It's advertised & pictured with professional products "crosswind" intake p/n 52028 (china clone of eb airgap). May fit LT1 hood but may require drop base air cleaner.

Or, perhaps, order motor with shorter pro products "cyclone" intake p/n 52007 (china clone of eb performer). But, expect a loss of about ten to fifteen at MAX hp&tq ... while low to mid rpm numbers might improve ... maybe not.

 

It was the warranty that got me on the YO motor. And the thought of a "seasoned" block ? already bored....
thats why I chose the following- with ALL NEW PARTS and a 5 year-50k mile warranty by GM..It was a bit more expensive, but it was also a turn key motor.
check it out:
http://paceperformance.com/i-5146077...ck-finish.html

 

Buy a crate ZZ4 and go driving. Best bang for the buck.

 

Maybe its just me but i would feel better with the original engine rebuilt!

 

why. cost and time beat a rebuild.

 

If it were my car and I were going to use it as a daily driver I'd put a crate motor in it. Then I'd rebuild the original to be fairly close to stock and store it in a safe environment for the eventual day when I wanted to sell the car.

 

 

Thanks. I had a Performer on my car at one point, and hood clearance was tight to say the least-looked like a similar intake.