1981 Remove Power Steering
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12
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1981 Remove Power Steering
I've done a number of searches with minimal results.
Looking to remove the power steering from my 81 and make it manual. What's the simplest way to do this?
I had read one posting stating that I may need a different Pitman Arm and Center Link?
What would go in place of the dampner hydraulic?
Anyone know for sure.
Looking to remove the power steering from my 81 and make it manual. What's the simplest way to do this?
I had read one posting stating that I may need a different Pitman Arm and Center Link?
What would go in place of the dampner hydraulic?
Anyone know for sure.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,708
Likes: 3,159
From: Shamong, NJ
You'll need the power steering center link (or relay rod) and the pitman arm, to do the conversion.
With power steering, the ball stud needed to attach the center link to the pitman arm, is part of the power steering control valve. With manual steering, the ball stud is installed in the end of the center link itself. The manual steering pitman arm is curved differently, to properly meet the manual steering ball stud.
Everything else from your PS system (steering box, knuckles, etc.) can be reused.
When eliminating the power steering, the slave cylinder is not needed, and can be removed.
If you do switch to manual steering, save the PS components to resell. The old PS components (slave cylinder, control valve, pump, center link, pitman arm and pulley) are worth a few hundred dollars to the rebuilders, or someone looking to convert to PS.
With power steering, the ball stud needed to attach the center link to the pitman arm, is part of the power steering control valve. With manual steering, the ball stud is installed in the end of the center link itself. The manual steering pitman arm is curved differently, to properly meet the manual steering ball stud.
Everything else from your PS system (steering box, knuckles, etc.) can be reused.
When eliminating the power steering, the slave cylinder is not needed, and can be removed.
If you do switch to manual steering, save the PS components to resell. The old PS components (slave cylinder, control valve, pump, center link, pitman arm and pulley) are worth a few hundred dollars to the rebuilders, or someone looking to convert to PS.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,708
Likes: 3,159
From: Shamong, NJ
Many vendors offer rebuilt center links. You can also get good used ones from any vendor that deals in used parts. One shouldn't be that hard to find.
There are 2 different manual steering center links. The 63-68 one has 5 holes in it, while 69 and later ones, have 3 holes. Either one should work, it's just that the 63-68's were designed for use with a steering damper, that Chevrolet eliminated in 69.
There are 2 different manual steering center links. The 63-68 one has 5 holes in it, while 69 and later ones, have 3 holes. Either one should work, it's just that the 63-68's were designed for use with a steering damper, that Chevrolet eliminated in 69.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,708
Likes: 3,159
From: Shamong, NJ
I don't think so, and apparently, neither did Chevrolet.
While Chevrolet did include it on all lower horsepower 63-68 Corvettes. It was not used on 63-65 solid lifter engines (it wouldn't clear the larger oil pan those engines used) or on 65-68 big blocks. Then in 69, they did away with it altogether.
While Chevrolet did include it on all lower horsepower 63-68 Corvettes. It was not used on 63-65 solid lifter engines (it wouldn't clear the larger oil pan those engines used) or on 65-68 big blocks. Then in 69, they did away with it altogether.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
FWIW, power steering became standard equipment sometime during the 1976 model year. So all Corvettes after that point had power steering.
I know that you should not use a manual steering pitman arm (one with 3829452 cast or forged on the arm) in a power steering application.
I would assume the opposite is also true (i.e. that you should not use a power steering arm #3741383 in a manual application.)
Jim
I know that you should not use a manual steering pitman arm (one with 3829452 cast or forged on the arm) in a power steering application.
I would assume the opposite is also true (i.e. that you should not use a power steering arm #3741383 in a manual application.)
Jim
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,708
Likes: 3,159
From: Shamong, NJ
The difference between them is below, from my previous post.
It is not a "damper" on the power steering system. It's a slave cylinder that provides assist to the steering system.
You can remove it, but if you don't change the pitman arm and center link, the effect will be the same as just removing the belt from the pump. You will have manual steering, but I think that the effort needed to steer it will be much higher than if you use a non power pitman arm and center link.
With power steering, the ball stud needed to attach the center link to the pitman arm, is part of the power steering control valve. With manual steering, the ball stud is installed in the end of the center link itself. The manual steering pitman arm is curved differently, to properly meet the manual steering ball stud.
What happens if only the hydraulic dampner is removed
You can remove it, but if you don't change the pitman arm and center link, the effect will be the same as just removing the belt from the pump. You will have manual steering, but I think that the effort needed to steer it will be much higher than if you use a non power pitman arm and center link.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Visalia CA
I pulled all of the power-steering stuff from the motor and the slave cylinder. I haven't had a chance to properly finish the project by swapping out the two items above but it really isn't that hard to drive. My girlfriend drives it just fine like that.
Just my two cents...wanted to let you know you could pull that junk hanging on the front of your motor and your car would still be plenty drivable.
Just my two cents...wanted to let you know you could pull that junk hanging on the front of your motor and your car would still be plenty drivable.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
The linkage geometry between the manual and power pitman arms and the relay rod with or without the tapered hole for the power steering assist cylinder is almost exactly the same.
So the manual steering effort should be the same -- EXCEPT for the fact that on a power steering system you are pushing power steering fluid in and out of the assist cylinder with every motion of the relay rod/steering wheel. So if the pump was removed from the system (i.e. remove the belt) now the fluid just circulates in the system with the motion of the assist cylinder. You will have additional steering effort caused by manually moving the power steering fluid.
Just as a point of information. If you were to install plugs in the assist cylinder ports rather than hoses, you would effectively "lock up" your steering system since you would be trying to move incompressible fluid that has no place to go. You could cobble together a "U-tube" to connect both ports of the assist cylinder. Now your assist cylinder would be acting as a damper.
Jim
So the manual steering effort should be the same -- EXCEPT for the fact that on a power steering system you are pushing power steering fluid in and out of the assist cylinder with every motion of the relay rod/steering wheel. So if the pump was removed from the system (i.e. remove the belt) now the fluid just circulates in the system with the motion of the assist cylinder. You will have additional steering effort caused by manually moving the power steering fluid.
Just as a point of information. If you were to install plugs in the assist cylinder ports rather than hoses, you would effectively "lock up" your steering system since you would be trying to move incompressible fluid that has no place to go. You could cobble together a "U-tube" to connect both ports of the assist cylinder. Now your assist cylinder would be acting as a damper.
Jim
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the feedback Joe.
That's were I was going. So if you remove the pump and the slave cylinder there would be no fluid or anything in the system that has to do with the power steering and the car would still drive.
What i'm gathering is that effort may change a little bit, but will work.
When I look at the two pitman arms and the two center links the difference doesn't seem substantial enough to make a huge difference.
That's were I was going. So if you remove the pump and the slave cylinder there would be no fluid or anything in the system that has to do with the power steering and the car would still drive.
What i'm gathering is that effort may change a little bit, but will work.
When I look at the two pitman arms and the two center links the difference doesn't seem substantial enough to make a huge difference.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 62
From: Kona Hawaii
Borgeson Box
Almost switched over to manual steering but found out about this Borgeson Steering Box.Bolts up in the stock location,no more leaky ram and control valve.Looks factory and steering is quick and precise.
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[/IMG] One of my best upgrades!
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[/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG] One of my best upgrades!
