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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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Default oil change

I am getting ready to perform an oil change for the first time on my 1980 corvette. I wanted to ask a few questions:

1.) Does anyone have any tips or tricks for changing the oil to make it easier and less messy?

2.) What is the good option for replacing the oil? (synthetic vs not) (brand choice)

Thanks.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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a. stay away from jiffy lube or any quick oil change facilities.
b. if you have a flat tappet engine, read the sticky in the c3 perf/tech section for recommended oils.
c. warm up engine.
d. drive it up ramps.
e. put cardboard down.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Whats the down side to jiffy lubes and shops of the same sort?
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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The service guy probably knows less about cars then you do. No insult intended.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
...Does anyone have any tips or tricks for changing the oil to make it easier and less messy?...
Pay someone to do it. In and out in no time. I still run dino oil in my two. Brand choice is up to you.

I've used Jiffy Lube for years. No problems. The oil change outfits are required to safely gather and dispose of waste oil. Check your local laws and you may find that you, as a private citizen, cannot put waste oil in the trash.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Dec 24, 2011 at 10:45 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Yea i havent had any problems with the jiffy lubes and such i was just wondering if you knew something i didnt. I love taking my vette in there its like i get special care any way lol
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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I know a few people who ended up with striped plugs and no oil. I guess I like to have a hand in all repairs to my car for piece of mind.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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There is nothing really wrong with going to those places...it just has to be the right place. If you find a place that you go to regularly, they know you, they know your car, and they do good work...you shouldn't have a problem. Some places, and some employees just don't give a crap...but there are some places and employees that make sure they do a good job everytime....unless the customer is an A-hole...then you never know what you are going to end up with.

Never be an A-hole to someone serving you food...or working on your car...PERIOD. At least no until they are in your possession.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Check your local laws and you may find that you, as a private citizen, cannot put waste oil in the trash.
True, but anyone can empty the drain pan into a discarded plastic 1 gallon milk jug and take to one of the national chain auto parts stores for disposal, free of charge. The filter is steel and can be recycled too.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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Being that this is my first oil chance for the car I wanted to do it myself. Kind of like an honorary thing. So that is why I wanted to see if any people with experience in doing it had any advice to eliminate new-be pitfalls.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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Get a nice big pan so you can drain the pan and filter at the same time. Don't tighten the drain plug to much, fill the filter and lube the filter seal, then tighten to the specs on the filter. Also make sure the old filters gasket came off with the filter and is not stuck on the flange.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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Dont forget your kitty litter.. and rags,..
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ptroxx
Dont forget your kitty litter.. and rags,..

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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ~Stingray
Being that this is my first oil chance for the car I wanted to do it myself. Kind of like an honorary thing. So that is why I wanted to see if any people with experience in doing it had any advice to eliminate new-be pitfalls.
I did hundreds when I worked for GM. Tip? Fill the filter with oil before you put it on.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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When installing the new filter, tighten it only as per instructions - usually 2/3 to 3/4 turns after the gasket contacts the sealing surface. Usually hand tightening will suffice. Overtightening the filter can cause it to be VERY difficult to remove next time and can cause the gasket to deform and leak.
Before reinstalling the drain plug, check to make sure the plug gasket is not cracked or broken. You can get a new one at any parts store.
Terry
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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I usually take mine to a "quicky" place ... BUT the owner sponsors some of our car shows and is a long time hot rodder ... He oversees his employees ...
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rangers-lead-the-way
Whats the down side to jiffy lubes and shops of the same sort?
Don`t go near those places they use bulk oil and I know of two folks who had their drain plugs crossthreaded, plus God knows what filter they will give ya. Are you at Hunter or F/S
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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Im at hunter, thanks for the input!!!!
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tnovot
When installing the new filter, tighten it only as per instructions - usually 2/3 to 3/4 turns after the gasket contacts the sealing surface. Usually hand tightening will suffice. Overtightening the filter can cause it to be VERY difficult to remove next time and can cause the gasket to deform and leak.
Before reinstalling the drain plug, check to make sure the plug gasket is not cracked or broken. You can get a new one at any parts store.
Terry
It's true with the filter tightening. I have buds who think I'm nuts, but I screw my oil filters on as tight as I can with one bare hand. Lube the filter gasket by spreading a few drops of oil on it when you fill it with oil.


Scott
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rangers-lead-the-way
Im at hunter, thanks for the input!!!!
Is the auto hobby shop still over there by the water tower check there they have a lift and everything you need to do it right
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