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so, 1st off im not sure what type of trans. i have... 2nd im not going to be very good at explaining this but ill do my best
Going into reverse is easy like butter.. however slipping the shifter back into the neutral position poses a problem.. almost seems like something is in the way. but a quick lil karate chop it would pop in easy..
but now shifting thru 1st and 2nd gear easy but going from 2nd to third i have that same resistence that i would have going from reverse to the neutral..
im hoping its just some adjusting that i have to do.. let me know if you've encountered these problems before.. or if you have any idea of what im talking about. im a pretty decent do it your selfer so if you can help me out i would love to try and fix this with out paying big bucks..
I've not encountered your problem, but I would definitely start with making sure shifter is properly adujusted. Is it the stock shifter, or is it possibly a Hurst shifter? I can help you w explaining how to adjust a Hurst shifter if that's what you have.
as far as i know its a stock shifter.. im not sure if its hurst though i haven't seen any markings indicating it is.. but their is a picture of my shifter in my profile album if you can tell if its hurst or not...
From the looks of the shifter in your album, it is stock . Is the "T" handle functional, that is, do you have to pull it up to get into reverse? As far as I know, if it is functional it has to be a stock shifter.
To correctly (and easily) adjust the shifter linkage you will need a "block gauge" to keep the 1-2, 3-4 & reverse selector levers in neutral. Chilton's says to make a 1/8" by 41/64" piece of metal and use it. I used a piece of plumber's tape cut to 41/64" and it worked fine. When you have the selector levers in neutral, you can adjust the shift rods to the proper length by having the shift levers in neutral.
PeteZO6: yes it is a stalk shifter.. after doing those adjustments 1st thru 4th feel amazing... however after ingaging in reverse. by " first lifting the T handle into that reverse postion.. all is well. but coming out of reverse and trying to get into back to the neutral to ingage 1st feels like their is a wall.. did i do adjustment wrong.. or do this have something to do with the "reverse interlock linkage" i believe it might be located under the steering column..
PeteZO6: yes it is a stalk shifter.. after doing those adjustments 1st thru 4th feel amazing... however after ingaging in reverse. by " first lifting the T handle into that reverse postion.. all is well. but coming out of reverse and trying to get into back to the neutral to ingage 1st feels like their is a wall.. did i do adjustment wrong.. or do this have something to do with the "reverse interlock linkage" i believe it might be located under the steering column..
thank you for helping me by the way...
You're welcome. That cable from the reverse linkage to the steering column is designed as an anti-theft device. You can't lock the ignition and steering without the transmission being in reverse. You could have an adjustment problem with that cable. Try disconnecting the cable from the transmission linkage and see how it shifts into and out of reverse. If OK, then you have to adjust the lockout cable. There isn't much, just the plate where the colunm comes out of the firewall. You can loosen the plate and "fiddle" with it until you get the feel you want. I think if you do a search on that linkage/cable you'll fine some good info.
PeteZO6: observing it much further i noticed when i lift the T handle it stays up and doesn't fully decompress. could that be the problem? and how would i address that problem..
PeteZO6: observing it much further i noticed when i lift the T handle it stays up and doesn't fully decompress. could that be the problem? and how would i address that problem..
The T handle is spring loaded and should return to the released position when you take your hand off of it. If in reverse, you can pull it to neutral without any pressure on the T handle and it will snap down when you get the lever to neutral. Take the know off, and remove the T handle and spring and see if it is clogged with thickened grease or other crud.
If you're serious about fixing your car up, you really need to buy a factory Chassis Service Manual and an AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual). All the Corvette vendors have them.