I just finished the TKO600 conversion (pics inside).
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
The shifter handle is too tall for my taste, is there away that I can cut it 1 in. shorter and re-weld it (using MIG) without risking the chrome to get discolored?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
No, this was the one that came with the kit. I am wondering if the shift mounting point is higher in your tranny than mine. My kit came from Keisler. I would think that the levers are all made by the same company and would be the same length but who knows.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Could you please do me a small favor? can you measure the exact height of the handle from the end of the trans mounting lever (that has the two mounting holes) to the end of the ball? doesn't have to be exact, just a general reference to what it should look like.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Race Director
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From: coffee
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
The leaking clutch master cylinder is fixed now, the rubber O-ring was shot and I replaced it with another one.
BTW, the feel of the hydraulic clutch is amazingly good, I think if any one is considering a auto-to-manual conversion, he should only consider a hydraulic clutch, it was just $150 more expensive than the mechanical clutch assembly and its FAR better, it also feels lighter, absolutely its the way to go.
BTW, the feel of the hydraulic clutch is amazingly good, I think if any one is considering a auto-to-manual conversion, he should only consider a hydraulic clutch, it was just $150 more expensive than the mechanical clutch assembly and its FAR better, it also feels lighter, absolutely its the way to go.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
The leaking clutch master cylinder is fixed now, the rubber O-ring was shot and I replaced it with another one.
BTW, the feel of the hydraulic clutch is amazingly good, I think if any one is considering a auto-to-manual conversion, he should only consider a hydraulic clutch, it was just $150 more expensive than the mechanical clutch assembly and its FAR better, it also feels lighter, absolutely its the way to go.
BTW, the feel of the hydraulic clutch is amazingly good, I think if any one is considering a auto-to-manual conversion, he should only consider a hydraulic clutch, it was just $150 more expensive than the mechanical clutch assembly and its FAR better, it also feels lighter, absolutely its the way to go.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 575
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From: Tampa / Ft. Myers FL
I'd say get back with A/P and see if they'll swap out the handle, assuming you got it from them and there is more than one style available from them. They hooked me up (fast) with a bell housing spacer when I had issues with hyd clutch shim measurements. I'll check out the length of the stock handle I ordered with the kit this weekend. I'd be i bit nervous about cutting and welding the handle back too. Can't wait to get mine back on road.
BTW I might be in your neck of the woods sometime this year, would love to see your setup.
Have a good one.
BTW I might be in your neck of the woods sometime this year, would love to see your setup.
Have a good one.
Last edited by MyRed69; Jan 23, 2012 at 10:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
I'd say get back with A/P and see if they'll swap out the handle, assuming you got it from them and there is more than one style available from them. They hooked me up (fast) with a bell housing spacer when I had issues with hyd clutch shim measurements. I'll check out the length of the stock handle I ordered with the kit this weekend. I'd be i bit nervous about cutting and welding the handle back too. Can't wait to get mine back on road.
BTW I might be in your neck of the woods sometime this year, would love to see your setup.
Have a good one.
BTW I might be in your neck of the woods sometime this year, would love to see your setup.
Have a good one.
Please let me know when you'll be here, I'd be glad to meet you.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
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From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
Being thousands of miles away from US is a big problem to me, I simply can't justify the shipping cost for any returned item, its better to keep it than to send it back and forth. I'll try welding it today and if it turned not as I wished, I'll just order another one for about $80.
Please let me know when you'll be here, I'd be glad to meet you.
Please let me know when you'll be here, I'd be glad to meet you.
Be sure to chamfer the two ends before you weld them. Also, set the feed speed on your MIG to run slower than you think it should - calibrate it on a similar piece of metal. What you want is the end of the filler metal to "drip" slowly into the joint to give you more control.
If you have .020 wire, rollers, and tip on hand, consider switching to those and making three passes, one on each side and then one down the middle. Otherwise, use straight CO2 and the "drip" method above.
Tack the two ends together lightly in one spot, then carefully align with a metal rule all around to ensure straightness. Then make a second tack opposite the first and verify.
Disclaimer: I'm not a professional welder, these are just things I've figured out over time that seem to work for me.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
My car was originally a manual brake which I converted to hydroboost brakes. I havent touched any of the brake setup, I just add the clutch pedal to the existing pedal box.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
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From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
You can't really avoid damaging the chrome when you weld it, esp with a MIG which gets very hot. Make the cut as close to the mount as possible and use the boot to hide the weld. You can cut it directly off the mount but it's harder to make sure its straight when you weld it back on.
Be sure to chamfer the two ends before you weld them. Also, set the feed speed on your MIG to run slower than you think it should - calibrate it on a similar piece of metal. What you want is the end of the filler metal to "drip" slowly into the joint to give you more control.
If you have .020 wire, rollers, and tip on hand, consider switching to those and making three passes, one on each side and then one down the middle. Otherwise, use straight CO2 and the "drip" method above.
Tack the two ends together lightly in one spot, then carefully align with a metal rule all around to ensure straightness. Then make a second tack opposite the first and verify.
Disclaimer: I'm not a professional welder, these are just things I've figured out over time that seem to work for me.
Be sure to chamfer the two ends before you weld them. Also, set the feed speed on your MIG to run slower than you think it should - calibrate it on a similar piece of metal. What you want is the end of the filler metal to "drip" slowly into the joint to give you more control.
If you have .020 wire, rollers, and tip on hand, consider switching to those and making three passes, one on each side and then one down the middle. Otherwise, use straight CO2 and the "drip" method above.
Tack the two ends together lightly in one spot, then carefully align with a metal rule all around to ensure straightness. Then make a second tack opposite the first and verify.
Disclaimer: I'm not a professional welder, these are just things I've figured out over time that seem to work for me.
I just shorted the handle and now it looks much better, and also the shifts became shorter and firmer, which I really like.
Before :
After :
