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In the past I've always put my 50/50 antifreeze mix in before my startups, but I had a friend of mine bring up a valid point and was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this. So you know, the guy that passed along this advice has professionally built LOTS of small and big block chevy motors over the years so I trust his advice.
His method and thinking is this - he only adds water (no coolant) before his initial break in runs. Since the break in runs are short, he has not run into any overheating issues. He runs his motors at about 1700 rpm for 15 minutes. Does a shut down and complete cool down then repeats. I should mention he has NEVER lost a cam in any motor he has built for himself or others.
The reason is that if you have any sort of a internal coolant leak (intake etc) you only end up with water in the oil and save your bearings. Once the break in runs are done, you check everything and if all looks good, drain the water and add your normal 50/50 mix.
Sounds like good thinking to me... thoughts anyone?
That's what Lars recommended to me as well... Plus, I'll probably be dumping mine at some point as I get ready to put the body and front clip back on...
That's what Lars recommended to me as well... Plus, I'll probably be dumping mine at some point as I get ready to put the body and front clip back on...
Rogman
Seems like a good idea. Did you have any issues with overheating when you did your breakin run?
Seems like a good idea. Did you have any issues with overheating when you did your breakin run?
Thanks Rogman
Adam
I did have some over heating because my initial timing was retarded too much... After setting initial, full and then plugging in the vac adv, I was good to go... Scariest 15-20 minutes of my life, so far... Stoked at how well the engine sounds and runs...
All water first can't hurt. Drain and refill with water/antifreeze. Keep in mind that all water cools more efficiently than water/antifreeze so keep the concentration low. I run about 75% water/25% antifreeze.
Also, you didn't ask, but one certain way of filling without trapping air is to remove the thermostat and fill thru there with the car sitting level. The water will reach the tstat level and the top of the radiator at the same time, with no entrapped air.
All water first can't hurt. Drain and refill with water/antifreeze. Keep in mind that all water cools more efficiently than water/antifreeze so keep the concentration low. I run about 75% water/25% antifreeze.
Also, you didn't ask, but one certain way of filling without trapping air is to remove the thermostat and fill thru there with the car sitting level. The water will reach the tstat level and the top of the radiator at the same time, with no entrapped air.
Yepper, I actually used the top rad hose (disconnect from rad) to put water in the engine to fill up both the engine and rad... Once it started coming out of the rad, hooked the hose back up and then topped it off...
Don't know about any of the other vintage race groups but the one I ran with some years ago (VARA) mandated water only in cooling systems. Most of us used Water Wetter, but if the tech guys pulled your cap and saw green you'd be dumping your radiator and refilling with straight water before they would let you out onto the track...Redvetracr may confirm this. The term 'coolant' is actually a misnomer since it doesn't make your engine run any cooler, it just raises the boiling point of the water. Straight water is actually more effective at carrying away heat...
Most of the advice I got when I did my built last winter was water only for the break-in, then if everything is tight go to the 50/50 mix. I followed the Cam Manufactors instructions for the break-in, everything went very well......Tim
Don't know about any of the other vintage race groups but the one I ran with some years ago (VARA) mandated water only in cooling systems. Most of us used Water Wetter, but if the tech guys pulled your cap and saw green you'd be dumping your radiator and refilling with straight water before they would let you out onto the track...Redvetracr may confirm this. The term 'coolant' is actually a misnomer since it doesn't make your engine run any cooler, it just raises the boiling point of the water. Straight water is actually more effective at carrying away heat...
Hmm, I thought coolant (antifreeze, ethelyne glycol) lowered the freezing point and pressure in the cooling system provided by the cap's pressure rating raised the boiling point.
Is the reason for running straight water to keep from slicking up the track with coolant? It makes sense, the stuff is slippery and doesn't seem to evaporate.
Wow... some excellent (and very different) answers here. That's why I love this forum.
In response to the filling method of using the thermostat housing or upper hose. Did you add the water into the upper hose (I'm guessing from what you said) - if so that must be a slow process with the thermostat being closed?
In the past, I've always added mine into the radiator, and done the front end bounce a few times - this seemed to burp the air out of the block.
Thanks again for all the advice and input guys... awesome stuff.
Wow... some excellent (and very different) answers here. That's why I love this forum.
In response to the filling method of using the thermostat housing or upper hose. Did you add the water into the upper hose (I'm guessing from what you said) - if so that must be a slow process with the thermostat being closed?
In the past, I've always added mine into the radiator, and done the front end bounce a few times - this seemed to burp the air out of the block.
Thanks again for all the advice and input guys... awesome stuff.
Adam
Yepper, I didn't have my stat installed for initial startup... Just wanted water to flow during break in... So no issues with filling engine through the upper rad hose... Water neck is an o-ring type, so I don't have to fuss with a gasket when changing/removing/installing the stat...
Hmm, I thought coolant (antifreeze, ethelyne glycol) lowered the freezing point and pressure in the cooling system provided by the cap's pressure rating raised the boiling point.
Is the reason for running straight water to keep from slicking up the track with coolant? It makes sense, the stuff is slippery and doesn't seem to evaporate.
That's correct. Water spilled on the track will soon evaporate, coolant won't.
Have any of you used 100% coolant? I just bought Chevron Coolant/antifreeze the red one and thinking on put all of it without water
100% coolant? Why in the world would you do that? The freezing point would be higher than a mixture with water. As I said before, the higher the concentration of ethylene glycol in water, the lower the rate of heat transfer. (And what you are trying to do is transfer heat from your engine to the coolant to the radiator to the air). Use as little as you need for freeze protection as per the mixing instructions on the container. Then you will have corrosion protection and efficient heat transfer capability.
I bracket race my 77 in hot summertime conditions, run after run (if I'm lucky) and I have no overheating problems.