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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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Default brake line broke

Hi..1970 convertible. The driver side brake line is broke.Not an option to repair. The aim catalog makes it look like that line is one piece from the proportional valve back to the distribution block. Is that true ?Clearly that line was put on prior to the body. Has anyone replaced that line with the car in tact, engine,body,transmission etc? Can it be done? Has anyone gone rogue and made their own from scratch. My car is not stock so I have options. Any help would be helpful. Thanks!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:48 PM
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I have replaced it on my '81 not easy but doable. Just be patient and take your time.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:53 AM
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Default Check The rest

If you already have 1 line rotted out it would be a good time to look at the rest of the lines. Pay carefull attention to places where they are fastened by clips or go over the frame rail .
Bill
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:55 AM
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I replaced my lines while the body was off with stainless. It really is a much easier job when the body is off.

There is a really nice type of line out now that you can bend by hand in almost any direction and NOT kink it. I mean you can twist this stuff like a pretzel by hand and it wont kink. It is made of an alloy so it does not rust.

The site below is where I bought it from. You may find other sites. Pick the diameter you need and you can also get all of the fittings. They even sell kits that can do an entire car.

http://www.tooltopia.com/surr-auto-parts-brez200.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/surr-auto-parts-br-ez14.aspx

This flare tool is expensive and if you don't need to do the flaring on the car then you don't need it, but if you need to be under the car and put a double flare on in a limited room location then this is the greatest tool ever.
http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-71475.aspx

You need a good double flare tool and the appropriate fittings and this stuff works great. I had to replace the two rear lines on my crown victoria as they were almost rotted through. Just managed to catch it while changing the tranny fluid and filter.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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FYI, that brass valve on your '70 doesn't proportion anything. It senses a pressure imbalance between the front and rear systems and activates the brake warning light in your dash. I believe later C3s used a proportioning valve.

Good luck changing the brake line. Be glad it is not the fuel line(s) on the other side. Those can only be done by lifting the body at least a few inches, or putting in line(s) with unions in the rear wheel well.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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Default get a kit

replace them all, was $80.00 from wilcox as a kit, A to Z, xout the flex hoses too, nothing to mess with, not having brakes
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:44 AM
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Before you attempt to replace the line, buy a good set of flare nut wrenches.

Trust me.

Yes. All brake lines and master cylinder were installed and the system pressure bled before body drop.

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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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I'm getting ready to replace mine....got the old ones off but I have just been sitting and shaking my head wondering why...why....why, do I even have this as a hobby....LOL

This is going to be tuff job to do without cutting the rear line that goes over frame rail. IMO

I've actually been thinking about splicing with a braided SS flex line to go over the frame. What is everyones opinion on that?
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Default hopeful

Originally Posted by larryg3
I have replaced it on my '81 not easy but doable. Just be patient and take your time.
Did you have your car on a lift? Mine is on Quick Lift ramps about three feet off the ground. How did you remove and replace the rear where you can't see it or get a wrench on it?
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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For replacement purposes, just be glad it wasn't your fuel line.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7dSHARK
Did you have your car on a lift? Mine is on Quick Lift ramps about three feet off the ground. How did you remove and replace the rear where you can't see it or get a wrench on it?
I had mine on jack stands. I replaced the brake lines as one of those since I am here type of things. I had my Trailing arms and Rear Diff out being rebuilt. So I changed all the brake lines and blocks.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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I did all of mine on my 71 with the body on. The line from the front to the rear took the longest. As the others have said its much easier to replace than the than the fuel line.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 01:09 PM
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My son and I did ours with the body on but we had it on our lift. Repalced them all with SS and the Master Cyl. also . Not all that bad job but have a GOOD set of Line wrenchs that is a MUST.

Good Luck wro87
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Before you attempt to replace the line, buy a good set of flare nut wrenches.

Trust me.
Excellent advice worth repeating.

Regards,

Stan Falenski
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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Your local parts store has TBW (tinned bundy weld) brake tubing in the right diameter in many different lengths (none of them long enough to go all the way from front to back). If you have a double flaring tool (they are reasonable to buy) you can make, bend, and join the lines yourself. You'd have to put a junction in the line, and that enables you to fit them much more easily than taking the body off or fighting with the body on. I mention this because you said yours isn't that original--you won't lose points for having a junction, because you aren't having the car judged!
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