Por-15 ?
#3
Melting Slicks
You'll find a plethora of opinions in the archives. Infact, I'd rank it up there as one of the most discussed topics.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=28468155
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sear...rchid=28468155
#4
1969/1971/1976 Coupes
I have used it but my build is not on the street yet. It functions rather nicely in the garage though Seriously, everything I have read points to it as being the stuff to use.
Another thing is that if you do use it, make sure you listen to their guidance when they say "wear gloves." That s#$% will NOT come off!!! That is experience talking.
Terry
Another thing is that if you do use it, make sure you listen to their guidance when they say "wear gloves." That s#$% will NOT come off!!! That is experience talking.
Terry
#5
Team Owner
I've used it and found it to be a good tool for some of those areas with surface rust that you can sand off and coat.
Use the search feature on the forum for POR 15 . . .you'll find a lot of good experience.
Good luck-
Use the search feature on the forum for POR 15 . . .you'll find a lot of good experience.
Good luck-
#6
Melting Slicks
and don't put some in a styroform coffee cup thinking that it would be easier to carry around. I know someone who did and it wasn't pretty.
#7
I have used it but my build is not on the street yet. It functions rather nicely in the garage though Seriously, everything I have read points to it as being the stuff to use.
Another thing is that if you do use it, make sure you listen to their guidance when they say "wear gloves." That s#$% will NOT come off!!! That is experience talking
Terry
Another thing is that if you do use it, make sure you listen to their guidance when they say "wear gloves." That s#$% will NOT come off!!! That is experience talking
Terry
#9
Drifting
FOLLOW the directions EXACTLY for the best results. Marine clean, metal ready and two coats of POR15, then one coat of Chassis Black. Don't use the cheapest brush, a little better brush or sponge brush or spray.
Open the can and stir. Then close the can and use a self tapping screw that has the rubber seal on it and drill it into the top side of the can. Squeeze out the amount you need and you'll have several years of shelf life. When you replace the screw it will seal.
Any short cut will affect your results. If you're doing inside frame rails, feed some 550 cord through one end to the other and tie a sponge at the connection. Soak the sponge draw it through the frame rail soak it again at the end and draw it back until you have the coverage you're after.
Open the can and stir. Then close the can and use a self tapping screw that has the rubber seal on it and drill it into the top side of the can. Squeeze out the amount you need and you'll have several years of shelf life. When you replace the screw it will seal.
Any short cut will affect your results. If you're doing inside frame rails, feed some 550 cord through one end to the other and tie a sponge at the connection. Soak the sponge draw it through the frame rail soak it again at the end and draw it back until you have the coverage you're after.
#10
Advanced
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Member Since: Oct 2011
Location: Pinehurst NC
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all good things to know!!
Nice feedback, so seems the going rate is that it is worth the money. I will have to get some. I am in the process of cleaning up the underside of my 77 that doesn't look like it has seen attention in years.
Nice feedback, so seems the going rate is that it is worth the money. I will have to get some. I am in the process of cleaning up the underside of my 77 that doesn't look like it has seen attention in years.
#13
Burning Brakes
POR-15 is the most misused and misunderstood paint/coating.
The true purpose is for owners who choose to cover over rusty metal. It bonds best to rust. It sort of chemically encapsulates rust. Too many grind off all rust then paint POR-15 over clean metal.
Not a great coating because it chips. Not meant to be used as a rust preventer. Actually, more likely to rust than primer and paint because POR-15 does not bond well to clean metal.
The true purpose is for owners who choose to cover over rusty metal. It bonds best to rust. It sort of chemically encapsulates rust. Too many grind off all rust then paint POR-15 over clean metal.
Not a great coating because it chips. Not meant to be used as a rust preventer. Actually, more likely to rust than primer and paint because POR-15 does not bond well to clean metal.
Last edited by Clubby99; 02-21-2012 at 11:01 PM.
#14
Drifting
I've found when I have the fail to bond issues is when I either don't use the marine clean/ or Dawn dish soap, or rinse the metal ready well enough because if it puddles it won't let the paint bond in that spot. Or the big deal, clean the metal and let it set over night or a few days before I start the process. Something goes on with the bare metal when left exposed. I know with my fresh machined metal if it isn't coated with something it begins to turn yellow, almost before your eyes.
#15
I had my frame sand blasted then used their Marine Clean and Metal Prep. I used a foam brush and it smoothed out nicely when it dried. If you get it on any threads you'll have to re-tap them. Ditto on keep off your hands. Line the lid with plastic when you close it or it will never re-open if you get any on the it. Ditto on keep it off your hands.
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
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POR 15 is a brand name. They make many products. I used their fuel tank repair many years ago. It's still doing its job and I'd recommend it. Don't know what situation you're looking to correct with a POR 15 product. http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAI...ductinfo/FTRK/
PS I don't feel their fuel treatment works as well as Stabil.
PS I don't feel their fuel treatment works as well as Stabil.
#17
Safety Car
POR-15 Is great stuff, highly recommend it, it has many applications,
I did a test of POR-15 and fiberglass, it dries water tight hard as a rock.
I could beat on the fiberglass sample with a hammer, great stuff.
I did a test of POR-15 and fiberglass, it dries water tight hard as a rock.
I could beat on the fiberglass sample with a hammer, great stuff.
#19
Melting Slicks
Chassis Saver is another. FWIW they also say don't get it on you. I did get some on my hands and the only think, other than time, that I found worked on it was Brake Kleen. Sprayed it on within about 5 to 10 minutes and was able to get it off. Tried spraying it on a section of cured paint later on and it wouldn't touch it.
#20
Safety Car
I was pleased with POR-15 on my restoration!