wheel stud
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: gainesville florida
wheel stud
evening,
I broke a wheel stud on a 71' and am looking for help.
I searched and found threads that explain that it is possible to drill a hole in the back plate to insert stud from behind, at the 9 oclock postion on drivers side and the 3 on passengers.........
damn if I can figure out how to get in there.
Can somebody please post a better description and maybe a picture or two???
Thx.
I broke a wheel stud on a 71' and am looking for help.
I searched and found threads that explain that it is possible to drill a hole in the back plate to insert stud from behind, at the 9 oclock postion on drivers side and the 3 on passengers.........
damn if I can figure out how to get in there.
Can somebody please post a better description and maybe a picture or two???
Thx.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 54,188
Likes: 9,476
From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
take BFH and take a good hit from the outside of the bad one if its broken off flush then take a center punch and hit it. then put the new one in the same fashion
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: gainesville florida
I did cut the stud off and punch it through and was able to get the head to drop out the bottom between the Parking Brake shoes.......but have no idea how to drill a hole in backing plate to thread a new stud in from back as some have said is possible..
(BIG F**KING HAMMER ????)
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,380
Likes: 227
From: Beecher Illinois
I've done this......
Remove the parking brake adjuster.
Grind a small bevel on the head of the new stud, just enough to keep it from wanting to dig into the backing plate.
At the 6 o-clock position set it in place from the rear on an angle with the bevel against the backing plate. Give it a whack with a hammer, there's enough flex in the backing plate that the stud should snap in place.
Grease up a couple big washers and with a lug nut flat side in, pull it into place.
Remove the parking brake adjuster.
Grind a small bevel on the head of the new stud, just enough to keep it from wanting to dig into the backing plate.
At the 6 o-clock position set it in place from the rear on an angle with the bevel against the backing plate. Give it a whack with a hammer, there's enough flex in the backing plate that the stud should snap in place.
Grease up a couple big washers and with a lug nut flat side in, pull it into place.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
That's friggin hilarious !!!! 2" stud with about 1-3/4" space, you need to pull the spindle off the arm to change the stud
I've never looked at that before, finger tight lug-nutz for me from now on
I Just wrote a big post with tons of pictures showing why this isn't a great idea (drilling), then looked at the room neat the adjuster and thought it's possible to go there.
KapsAS is right on. I was gonna sugest cutting some of the shield in that area to clear the stud, you need about 2 inches for the stud.
Actual mileage may vary, results not typical, professional driver on closed course...
Mooser
I've never looked at that before, finger tight lug-nutz for me from now on
I Just wrote a big post with tons of pictures showing why this isn't a great idea (drilling), then looked at the room neat the adjuster and thought it's possible to go there.
KapsAS is right on. I was gonna sugest cutting some of the shield in that area to clear the stud, you need about 2 inches for the stud.
Actual mileage may vary, results not typical, professional driver on closed course...
Mooser
Last edited by Mooser; Feb 22, 2012 at 10:46 PM. Reason: KapsAS method is better
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,380
Likes: 227
From: Beecher Illinois
HA HA
Don't let the other experts worry you, you're not grinding the head OFF, you're putting a bevel on it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...placement.html
edit....sorry, thought you were giving ME ****!!
Don't let the other experts worry you, you're not grinding the head OFF, you're putting a bevel on it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...placement.html
edit....sorry, thought you were giving ME ****!!
Last edited by KapsSA; Feb 22, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
HA HA
Don't let the other experts worry you, you're not grinding the head OFF, you're putting a bevel on it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...placement.html
Don't let the other experts worry you, you're not grinding the head OFF, you're putting a bevel on it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...placement.html
The studs are mostly loaded under shear and every one I've ever seen, seem to break at the weakest point, start of the thread (baring any flaw)
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
You should be able to pry the brake shoes apart and that will allow it to drop out. You should only need to move the shoes about a quarter inch to get it out.
