Hey everyone,

As you can see, I'm new to this forum. I thank you for taking the time to read my post.

My dad purchased a Corvette Pace Car with an L82 back in 78. The car only has 20,000 miles on it and for the most part it just sits in the garage. I take it out during the summer when I'm back home every now and then, but the brakes are pretty shot so I try not to drive it too much. There are a few problems with it and I'm wondering if you guys have ever come across any of these. I like to work on cars, so I am hoping to get some of these fixed with my friend who is a mechanic.

As plagued with these old corvettes, both the calipers and rotors and pretty rusted. Do you guys recommend new rotors or should I have them turned? I'm also wondering if any of you know of any calipers that won't rust within a year or two. I've heard stories where the calipers need to be replaced about every other year.



Another problem with the car is the electrical system. I'm guessing mice got inside and chewed the hell out of it. The lights in the car are always on and even though I disconnected all of the bulbs, the battery drains quickly.

This also seems to be a problem:



I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, but I just can't get those to connect!

Other than all of that, the car seems to start and run great. It does idle fairly high for about ten minutes, but then subsides.


Sorry for the long post, but if any of you could help me out or have any input at all I'd appreciate it!

Thanks!


EDIT:

The transmission is automatic.

VIN: 1Z8748S900163

If you guys can't see the pics, here are the links:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7566318...n/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7566318...n/photostream/

 

Hey MS6...well first welcome to the forum. You'll find a number of 78 owners who are pretty sharp and know the 78 well. So if you elect to "go" mechanical...you'll find plenty help here.

Pace Cars are cool cars (my opinion) and there were only 6502...so you should tell us more like:
1. what's the vehicle serial number (VIN)?
2. What's the transmission?
3. Any unique marks underneath? Or is it rusted?


Yeah...those are rusted. Safety should be your first concern and I would invest in new calipers with stainless steel inserts. They'll take your originals as cores...but than I would probably hang onto them. Now, you could have your originals sleeved with stainless but you'll have to compare the pricing on those. The rotors could be saved with a turn...even new ones would probalby need to be turned to get them trued up. Others may offer their opinions...without much urging.

Only if it is not done right the first time around. My brake job has last for at least ten years and I run silicone fluid (DOT 5) versus DOT 3.

If the calipers are shot...than your master cylinder probably needs attention as well. A brake job doesn't take a lot of expertise...just mechanical aptitude and patience. Its a fun job and rewarding for a newbie.

That will take some electrical troubleshooting. YOu can pick up a colored coded wiring schematic which is helpful but than you'll need some electrical acumen (experience).

Fill out your profile...tell us where you live...maybe someone is close enough to help.

I'm not sure what's this is showing...I see a smog pump and air cleaner...all of which seem connected.

Other than all of that, the car seems to start and run great. It does idle fairly high for about ten minutes, but then subsides.

If you're going to get serious... you should get a 1978 shop manual and a 1978 assembly instruction manual (AIM). This will be a great help.

 

Welcome to the CF! The most important thing about driving an older Corvette is having the ability to stop. I'm not a tinkerer, and tend to replace everything as I go along. If you replace them now, you'll likely never have to do it again. Ill leave it to the real experts to lend their advice, but thats what i would do. Post some pictures of the car when you get a chance. We love pictures.

 

Sorry, I cannot see the pictures but as to the battery drain. Even with the bulbs removed my car "77" has a courtesy light timer which is in a circuit with the door jam and hood switches. This timer draws current till all the switches are satisified. So either a switch is not satisifed or the timer is faulty. My timer was located in the wiring harness on top of the speedo/tach.

 

Thanks for your replies guys!

hunt4cleanair,

I updated my post so you can check out the vin and such. As far as rust goes, there is absolutely none on the body (thanks to fiberglass?). Underneath there is some rust on the frame and such, but it's to be expected I'm guessing.

Here is a closer look of the disconnection I am referring to:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/7566318...n/photostream/

There are two hoses coming from the intake. Where they meet to the right is disconnected and I can't get it back together. I'm guessing I need a new piece.

And here she is!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/7566318...n/photostream/

 

welcome to CF. first, it isn't necessary to replace the calipers every year as you assumed. the proper way to restore the calipers is to buy rebuilt calipers with stainless steel inserts. they will last for a very long time even in a car that isn't driven really often. that's a good place to start. since the car has been sitting, i would blow out all the lines also before installing new calipers. there is also a decent chance that the master brake cylinder is allowing for some fluid by pass (fluid getting past the plunger rather than being pushed through the system by the plunger) at this point, and since being able to stop is the key function, replace that also just to be safe.

as for the electrical system, removal of the bulbs won't stop any drain that is being caused by poor grounds (which are very common in older corvettes). you are better off once you have found and repaired/cleaned all the ground points for starters to use a battery cut off (removable batter cable connection) to take the battery out of the system. our older cars have the advantage of not having all the modern electronics that require constant power regardless of how little. the only thing that will be "disconnected" will be the clock and odds are in a 30+ yr old car, that hasn't worked for years anyway, lol. taking the battery out of the system is also the safest way to store the car if it isn't going to be used regardless of how infrequently.

those are some basics. once you get those straightened out you should be able to enjoy the use of the care safely. restoring or repairing all the other things on the car can be done along the way. i'm guessing that some of the things that are shot from age and sitting around are all the rubber parts (bushings, etc), the tires are probably really old and tires over 8 years of age are really not safe for road use anymore, the shocks are probably also dried out and will need to be replaced to be safe on the road.

that should get you started. good luck and don't forget to ask if you have any questions along the way. there are some very qualified folks here to provide you with assistance and they are more than willing to share their knowledge with all the members.

 

srs244,

Thanks for your input. I disconnect the battery every time I park the car, let alone when I store it for the winter.

Again, thank you all for your replies. I honestly have never felt so welcomed in a forum before. It's making me every bit more excited to starting this "project".

 

Seems most of your questions have been answered but I'll add my 2 cents
The 2 seperated air ducts just forward of the AC compressor typically have a simple sheetmetal screw holding them together in the outer corner near the pulley. At least ALL of mine do. No j-clip or anything, just a screw.
You can replace the calipers and be pretty much OK for years after. I'd leave the rotors alone, any rust on the pad surface will wear off as you drive it. That is as long as there are no gouges or ridges in them. They typically look overall rusty anyway.
As mentioned for the interior lights, there is a delay timer that frequently malfunctions. You'll find it behind the glove box insert to the right of the opening, an orange thing pretty much just hanging in the harness. Willcox sells a replacement circuit board that goes inside for like $25, or it can be bypassed.
For now, even thou you removed the interior light bulbs, look under the car near the spare tire lock to see if there is a light on under there. Same circuit as the interior lights.

Also, Muskegeon Brakes just north of you in Michigan will rebuild YOUR brake calipers if you want to keep original parts. I've had a couple sets done, about a 30 day turnaround. $80 each a few years ago.

 

Yeah...I would say original. Looks like the tires are still the original...just don't drive too far on those.

You have a nice car. You might consider taking it to Bloomington Gold since you're in South Bend. BG will be held for the last time in St Charles, Illinois. After that its going to Springfield (I think that's right). But you could have it looked at by seasoned Corvette judges and you would get some nice feedback.

Another suggestion is that if you're intending to make it road worthy, which means repair, replacement of parts, you must decide whether you're going to attempt to keep it original as it rolled off the factory floor. Or, it doesn't matter and any part will do. I suspect its an automatic which means one of some 3500 Pace Cars with an L82 auto. Or, if its a four-speed, its one of 512 if its the M21 four-speed. The point is educate yourself about what you have before throwing original parts away. The calipers are case in point.

Another example, alternator. I would venture to say its the original which means it has a date code and part code that associate it with the assembly date of your car. If it goes bad, and you take it to NAPA for a core replacement, it probably will cost $100.00 for a replacement. But if you have the original rebuilt, you're looking at $250.00 but than you have the original that goes with that car. On my two 78s...I have the originals, rebuilt but I have a spare that stays in the box, in the event one goes bad...I can still get around.

If originality is of interest than the National Corvette Restorers Society has produced restoration guides that help owners decipher date codes and part codes. There is a technical guide for the 1978-79 model years you should own either way.

www.ncrs.org

Either way...enjoy