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Does anyone know what fuse controls the fuel pump on a 82? I have one TB apart but need to roll down my window and as soon as I turn the key the pump primes and gas will squirt everywhere.
Does anyone know what fuse controls the fuel pump on a 82? I have one TB apart but need to roll down my window and as soon as I turn the key the pump primes and gas will squirt everywhere.
Put in a new battery after car sat for nearly two years. Car cranks strong but no fuel being sprayed thru any of the injectors. Figured it may be a blown Fuel Pump fuse, but looking at this diagram, it shows it to
be a10. Mine is a 25. Haven't pulled it yet as it's darn near impossible to get to with all the wires in the way. Does anyone know why there would be a 25 there (Its a Collectors Edition)?
Was there a change in the size they used during the production year?
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Because someone prior to you is an idiot and looking to possibly burn the car down? That's a lot between 10 and 25amp. Put a 10 in there like it should be, if it blows, you know why they put a 25 which would be really dumb. You will need the service manual for sure at that point. BTW, check the 30amp fuse in the battery box in the right rear corner. If it is corroded or blown, the engine will crank, you will have spark, but no fuel to the injectors. That fuse is direct dedicated power to the ECM using the battery as a filter for clean power. GL
Because someone prior to you is an idiot and looking to possibly burn the car down? That's a lot between 10 and 25amp. Put a 10 in there like it should be, if it blows, you know why they put a 25 which would be really dumb. You will need the service manual for sure at that point. BTW, check the 30amp fuse in the battery box in the right rear corner. If it is corroded or blown, the engine will crank, you will have spark, but no fuel to the injectors. That fuse is direct dedicated power to the ECM using the battery as a filter for clean power. GL
Thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking the same thing, although I've owned the car for 5 years with no issues with that 25A fuse in there. That's why I was wondering if it could have been a mid year production change at factory, possibly due to a change in fuel pump type. I have to pull that fuse to see if its blown (really hard to get to). Only thing I can think that could have caused an electrical problem is that I accidentally touched both battery terminals with my wrench when removing it, and it caused a brief spark. But I thought that that would have just possibly affected the old battery, not fry any electrical equipment.
And I just checked the fuse size of the the one in the battery box that controls the ECM. it seems fine, but wouldn't you know it,
someone put in a 20A vs the 30A you say its supposed to be. I assume the worst that could happen there is that the fuse would
blow sooner than it needs to. But with someone having replaced the fuel pump with a 25A vs the 10A that should be there, I'm wondering
if I have a blown fuel pump now. Is there a way to check if that's working without pulling the sender and pump out (I don't have the tools here
to do that)? Thanks again!
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by Delafield2000
And I just checked the fuse size of the the one in the battery box that controls the ECM. it seems fine, but wouldn't you know it,
someone put in a 20A vs the 30A you say its supposed to be. I assume the worst that could happen there is that the fuse would
blow sooner than it needs to. But with someone having replaced the fuel pump with a 25A vs the 10A that should be there, I'm wondering
if I have a blown fuel pump now. Is there a way to check if that's working without pulling the sender and pump out (I don't have the tools here
to do that)? Thanks again!
OMG, this was my fault. I re-read my post and I typed 30amp ECM fuse. It should be 20amp, my mistake and I should have re-read the post. Ugh! If that is OK, you might have killed the injector driver circuit in the ECM? Check to see if the injectors are firing, if so, the ECM may be gone.
No problem. Yes, the 20A fuse in the battery compartment is fine and is getting power when I put the test light on it.
I tried testing the fuel pump fuse terminal (fuse pulled out) but not getting any power on either side. I'm wondering if
the issue is with the fuel pump relay that is attached to the compartment wall behind the drive's seat? Or is it the wiring that
goes to that terminal? Or, is it that that terminal only gets power when the engine is cranking (and not just with ignition on)?
Sorry for being a novice, but how would I check to see if the injectors are firing if there is no fuel being sprayed from them?
Should they be making a sound of some sort when cranking the motor?
The crazy thing is that the car was working fine when a buddy fired it up a few months ago. Only thing I can think of is that something
got fried when I accidentally touched the wrench to both battery terminals when removing the ol battery.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Several ways to check injectors. one is with a 9v battery, touch the battery to the injector terminals and listen if you hear the injectors clicking, the other way to see if they are getting voltage is with a noid light. If the it lights up on each pulse, the injectors are good. Then, I would assume that the injectors are not getting any fuel, but you can check that as well with a gauge setup in-between the the TBs. 13psi is what you want, anything less will need to be raised up to 13. It could still be something else causing issues, but the ECM is still suspect at this point. The BEST thing to have is the 82 GM service manual...get one if you don't have one. Everything is in there that you would need to figure this out. GL