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door lock reinstall problems 1972

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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Default door lock reinstall problems 1972

Holy crap... after re rereading multiple times the procedure with the door spring install on here and at willcox I finally got my door springs in. Now it is anto the door handles and outer lock cylinders. I have it all figured out and working but I am having a problem with the retainer plate that goes on the backside of the door holding the lock cylinder tight in place. It looks like a C-clip and is supposed to push under the two little tabs on the side of the lock. Is there some special tool or trick to this? Jeez....talk about tight working space! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

many thanks,

Sully
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 08:48 AM
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number 27 is the retainer I am referring to:

http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...%20PICTURE.JPG
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:40 AM
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i used electricians pliers to get it started, then a large screw driver to push it into final position. it may help to have a helper push on the outside of the lock to fully seat it so that the grooves are exposed. did you repaint the car and have extra thickness of paint on the door? i often wonder how this was done on the assembly line. some guy probably had 20 seconds to finish this job.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
i used electricians pliers to get it started, then a large screw driver to push it into final position. it may help to have a helper push on the outside of the lock to fully seat it so that the grooves are exposed. did you repaint the car and have extra thickness of paint on the door? i often wonder how this was done on the assembly line. some guy probably had 20 seconds to finish this job.
Hey Sully!



I used a large screwdriver as I recall. I couple years ago I did a post on this very project. I'll see if I can find some of the pictures, they might help.

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MakoShark72
Hey Sully!



I used a large screwdriver as I recall. I couple years ago I did a post on this very project. I'll see if I can find some of the pictures, they might help.

that'd be great buddy! I appreciate your help!
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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Write down the key punchout numbers on the cylinder before you install it. If you ever need another key it will be easy to have one made.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Sully, couldnt find the old post but here's a couple pictures...

Not sure what you are specifically looking for, but hope these are of some help..

















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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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that's perfect pics, but I gotta ask.... how did you get all that stuff so clean? the latch assembly and all look almost new! Mine are all dirty and grime covered!

thanks so much for digging those up for me, i went through your previous posts, all the way back through page 10 or so and couldn't find much!

Sully
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully1882
that's perfect pics, but I gotta ask.... how did you get all that stuff so clean? the latch assembly and all look almost new! Mine are all dirty and grime covered!

thanks so much for digging those up for me, i went through your previous posts, all the way back through page 10 or so and couldn't find much!

Sully
Its been awhile but I'm sure it was Simple Green and spray carb cleaner!
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MakoShark72
Its been awhile but I'm sure it was Simple Green and spray carb cleaner!
well I am going to look at that and see how difficult it is to pull out and clean up, i think there's just three or four bolts holding it in there. Mine could really use a cleaning by the way they look, most of the stuff on my car is all original and hasn't been messed with since put on in January of 1972.

thanks again!

Sully
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully1882
well I am going to look at that and see how difficult it is to pull out and clean up, i think there's just three or four bolts holding it in there. Mine could really use a cleaning by the way they look, most of the stuff on my car is all original and hasn't been messed with since put on in January of 1972.

thanks again!

Sully

Pulling the latch assembly out is not very difficult. Three screws on the bulkhead and the linkage rods that connect to the various arms. Be careful not to let the upper handle rod end spin though because when it get's out of adjustment it's a lot of trial and error to get it adjusted properly again. The other rods are probably going to be out of adjustment anyway so this is a good time to tighten everything up when the latch goes back in. Other things to do while the latch is out is recover all the linkage rods in the vibration dampening sleeve that usually has deteriorated by now. Also if you have sagging upper handles this is a good time to pull them and install new springs. The latch itself is difficult to get out of the hole but be patient and you can get it squirreled through.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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hey thanks Mark, I have had it all apart and out during the time the car has been sent out for a repaint. I've been staring intently at the AIM and it just doesn't explain it all that well. I am gonna pull it all back out again and clean the parts then adjust it all as you recommended! Time to break out the service manual.

Sully
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
i used electricians pliers to get it started, then a large screw driver to push it into final position. it may help to have a helper push on the outside of the lock to fully seat it so that the grooves are exposed. did you repaint the car and have extra thickness of paint on the door? i often wonder how this was done on the assembly line. some guy probably had 20 seconds to finish this job.
This is a carbon copy of what I did, though I used needle nose vice grips making sure to not clamp too tight on the white plastic. Once in position, the long thin screwdriver pushed it into place.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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the pliers and large long screw driver did the job, I got both of them in place and now have working door locks! Thanks everyone!

Sully
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