~Stingray

As many have said, read as much as you can before buying one. Cruise the general C3 section daily so you can have a good idea of things that are being worked on and issues that arise. There are also a ton of articles online that discuss Corvette history and what to expect from each year.

Second, you really need to know what you are looking for. The C3 range is very large and so it will be much easier on you to have a more narrowed search.

Take someone with you who is mechanically inclined when you go look at a car. Rust, leaks and needed replacement parts are good places to start. It is vital to have a good idea of what you will need to spend right off to get the car looking the way you want to before you agree on a price. If it can't fit your budget, move on. There are plenty of Corvettes and there will ALWAYS be deals.

Be aware of too-good-to-be-true deals. They usually are, even if it is not apparent. Being skeptical is always good when searching for 30+ year old cars.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here on the forum and let us know what you are looking at. We can give opinions on ads you find if you share them with us.

God Bless you in your search.

BTW, I was just in Bowling Green and spent two days at the museum and the plant.





I am glad you had fun. I had a blast and recommend it as well.

Indiancreek

I'm not sure where Mayfield is in relationship to south west Oh. However if you need help with an evaluation, feel free to contact me. I'll do what I can. I have a car hauler also if that be the case. You've gotten good advice thus far. Plan on messing with it now and then. I have three and a half Vette's in the shop now, 73, 75, 78 and half a 74 if you'd like to see the things to look out for.

desue

Yeah I;m trying to do my homework but mechanical things are over my head so you guys be patient with me! I like to have some understanding of what I'm getting into. I understand (or is that common sense?) that a car this old is more than likely going to have problems, if not now, somewhere down the road (like ANY car). Everyone seems to say that its better to buy one that has less problems than a fixer-upper which means more $$ upfront. I've ordered a Corvette Black book and will do tons of research, but I would rather hear from real life experiences (such as the folks on this forum) than read a boring book. I just came back from Bowling Green. It was pretty awesome though I wished i could have stuck around and seen more! As far as Mayfield beating you...sorry I wasnt even alive then Mayfield has always had a kick a$$ football team! Thanks!

desue

Mayfield is in western part of KY, kinda between Paducah & Murray. (GO RACERS!!!!) And thanks to all of you! You have really been a tremendous help! I need all the help I can get! I'm glad to know there are so many others to share the passion with

69 Chevy

Best of luck in your search for a C3.

Almost every conceivable part is available from aftermarket sources like this forum's sponsors on the left sidebar. However, I'd steer clear of 68's and 81's as lots of their parts are one year only which, of course, means more $$$.

Just remember that these are antique sports cars...keyword antique. Be prepared to spend time and $$$ on their upkeep. Having to rely on the kindness of friends who are mechanically inclined just might strain those friendships to the brink if you constantly need their skill to fix things. There's no such thing as 10K trouble free miles on these Vettes.

desue

Mostly I just ask advice from them, kinda like I'm asking you all advice. As a woman in the male dominated world of cars I feel like mechanics are trying to take advantage of me. Recent proof of that is when I took my Celica to toyota dealer for them to see why cel was on. They told me it was bad o2 sensor and cat. $1800 to fix. Sure buddy....I guess my flux capacitor needs replacing too? Jeez! Long story short, I bought o2 sensor online for $70 PAID my buddy $80 to put it in for me (I never expect favors and always offer cash for them helping me out). We both come out ahead, and car runs much better. I really do wished was more mechanically oriented, but trying to operate a screwdriver ticks me off! I don't think I need to try my luck with a car. I accept the fact that I will have to put money into it. As with anything, upkeep is a given.

Indiancreek

Look for the normal rust areas on the bird cage and near the trailing arms to make sure your frame and related support areas are good. Otherwise you'll be looking at major work. Around the windows top center and corners of the windows often rust from leaks.

desue

So basically be aware of extensive frame rust. Avoid 68's and 81's because parts are more expensive. Friend at work told me to avoid buying ones from up north (salt/weather damage) but as old as they are they could have been around the world by now. What about mileage? What's considered too low or too high? Seems to me if it was real low miles that would mean 1. its just been sitting in somebody's garage dry rotting, or 2. somebody rolled back a few. Is there a video or guide out there that shows where exactly to look for damage and how much rust is too much? Sorry for the silly questions, I am learning! Why don't one of you guys bring yours over and let me practice inspecting on it? I will leave my sledge hammer in the shed. JK!! Thanks to all you kind and very patient folks!!

garage-ghost

Don't listen to the "don't buy from up north" thing. There are allot of rust free cars up north too. You just have to check them all, north and south.