Hi guys, new member here. I'm 20 years old and have been saving up for a C3. My dad is going to chip in too. I won't be ready to buy for at least another 6 months to a year. However, I think it is important to learn as much as possible before making a big decision like this which is why I'm starting to do research and ask questions now. I would like to know if there are any specific differences among early C3 small and big block cars concerning things like the frame, suspension, and axles. I know that BB cars tend to go for more money and I could possibly save some by going with a SB if everything else is the same. I don't need the car to be 100% original as I plan on modifying to the way I like and dropping in a BB crate engine. Anyways, this forum looks like a great resource and I look forward to spending time learning about C3s.
Chris

 

Frame is the same, bb had 550 lb front springs, different engine mounting hardware.

 

Big vs Small

Big block had bigger diameter axles and they have different caps on the side yokes as I recall.

Different tack redlines

And the motors are bigger!

 

If you plan on dropping a BB crate in the car, then maybe you can find a C3 that either has a SBC or perhaps a car w/o any engine to save a few bucks. Depending on how big a project you want to get yourself into, you can find a lot of C3's in various conditions, but the lower the cost of the car, the higher the cost to restore it. You have plenty of time to solicit advice, shop, compare and plan. Good luck!

 

Before anyone jumps in trying to convince you that BB's ruin handling, be aware that's just propaganda fostered by those who don't know any better. That said, the additional weight does require a little more chassis tuning, so definitely opt for aluminum heads and water pump (assume you'll have an alum intake) if you can afford, and your BB shouldn't weigh but ~100# more than a stock L82 lump.

 

My long term plan would be to drop a BB crate in. I think the number one priority is to find a car that is clean and driveable. If I bought a SB car, it would probably be a little cheaper initially and allow more money for other things. I was trying to find out if there were major differences between SB and BB cars that would make me want to only look at big blocks. From what others are saying, it appears that the differences are minimal. The frame is the same and springs are easy enough to replace. However, a difference in axle size is a bit of a concern. Would the SB axle be too weak to handle the added power of a BB down the line? Also, are the drive shafts the same?

 

If you're asking what the differences are between factory installed big blocks and small blocks, here's a list off the top of my head.

Larger radiator and radiator support. From memory, 27 1/2 inches wide.
Big block/LT1 hood, a bit more room for the carb and air cleaner.
Different front springs. Larger sway bar. Caps on the differential yokes rather than U bolts. Rear sway bar. Tach red line @ 5600 (again from memory, they differ from the small block). Different mounting brackets for alternator and power steering pump. There may be more... If you have access to a factory AIM, look up the option code, this will tell you what's different.

IMO if you want to drop another motor into the car, look for a NOM factory big block. The factory built cars have all the parts designed for big blocks already there. Being a NOM, you'll get it much cheaper than a numbers big block. My next choice would be a NOM small block though you would have to find the upgrade parts yourself.

 

Ideally, I want to find a big block car that is not numbers matching but otherwise in good shape. The second option would be to find a SB but then any money saved would go towards those upgrades that you mentioned. I've been doing some research online and early C3s with the original BBs are definitely out of my price range (I would probably keep the engine in that case anyway). I'm most interested in a 68-70 and prices are all over the map. Can anybody give me some price ranges of solid driver quality vettes that may not be as well documented or even have the original engine? Also, where do I look? I've been on Autotrader Classics, Craigslist, Corvette Trader and want to find something within driving distance so I can look at the car in person. Thanks for the help.

 

The last year for a BB was 1974.Rubber bumpers are not considered as collectable as the chrome bumper counterparts.You may find one for a good price...You could also build a big cubic inch small block as an alternative to swapping in a BB.

 

If you are going to put a crate BB in , then buy a small block base motor car as it will be several thousands less than even a NOM BB. You can pick up axles for a few hundred bucks, springs are cheap as are sway bars.

Then buy an aluminum aftermarket radiator and an electric fan pack, I have a $150. Summit with Spal Duals fans in my BB and it rarely if ever goes over 200 in the hottest weather or buy a Dewitts that will drop right in considerably more, but they fit with no issues and great quality.

You will have to find a different hood as the small block is to low, a BB /LT1 or one of many different L88 style hoods available used or new aftermarket. An original press molded BB hood will cost you $500-$1,000


Buy the best car frame and body you can find within your budget as the real killer is if the car you have is rusted out in the frame and especially the birdcage.


Once you have that new crate motor, you will also want a 5 or 6 speed transmission for it right away as they make a big difference in drive-ability.

It never ends what you will find you want to do to the car once you start changing from stock.

 

This sounds like the best route to go. The upgrades are fairly easy and inexpensive. I know prices will vary but could anybody give me a rough estimate of what I should expect to pay for an early C3 SB coupe? I would like one that runs and is not in need of a full restoration. However, I'm not afraid to do my own work and throw some money into the car to bring it up to date as long as its within my budget. In the short term, I just want something driveable and presentable. Dropping in a crate motor is more of a long term goal once I get out of college in a few years and start making more money. Like you said, it's a project that never ends. Just have to take it one step at a time.

 

FWIW: Zora Duntov is on record as having said the big block threw off the 50/50 balance he was very close to having with the small block cars and did not handle as well as the small blocks. He did not particularly like big blocks for these reasons, but he was not stupid and realized cubic inches sold cars.

 

Well it took us over a year of life getting in the way and putzing around but me and David swapped engines,


John, Bats, David


BB in car...still beta testing some things...

Duntov could have used any all aluminum engine he wanted big or small, Small blocks had close to 50/50?...hum because I love the way my car feels and handles with the BB better than the small block, of course this could just be personal tastes or the fact my car had BB front springs,
But I have always heard that a BB with Aluminum heads etc weighs about the same as a SB with iron heads...if a person is all hung up on that but lets face it short of a track who cares.

And why did I want a BB?
I cruise, I'm not some Fast and ridculous kid racer,
When I had my first vette a 72 when I was about 17 it had a 454 and I have missed that car every since,
I come from a time that when you opened the hood people expected to see a BB in there....

PS...no my stock 73-79 style hood will not close on this performer intake....

 

Are they? A few pricing experts on this forum have stated a NOM Corvette is a NOM Corvette, doesn't matter what it was built as originally. If this is true, a NOM big block already has all the parts, brackets, etc in place. No need to hunt down parts. If this isn't true, statement that all NOMs are equal, low priced, then I'd agree. The NOM small block would be a better deal. I'm guessing the parts may go for $1000 - $2000?

Absolutely! Rust is very expensive to repair. Paint a close second.

 

The reason I chimed in is because the OP wants a BB, and I don't want him to become dissuaded from it for the wrong reasons.

Note that I did point out additional chassis tuning was necessary to sort a BB/C3 for the twisty bits, but with not too much extra work it can definitely be done. Those who haven't experienced a decently prepped BB shark may never appreciate what I'm on about.

FWIW, an all aluminum BB weighs less than an L82. Thanks, Zora!

Now, back to the OP's original topic...

 

When I was on the hunt for my first C3 I bought a 74 L82 small block car. I pulled the smoking but still runs engine, and installed a 454. Easiest thing in the world to do. It used the same mounts as the small block, The L82 package came with a Th400 the tranny of choice for a BB if not going overdrive or manual tranny, So tranny bolted right up. Research on the springs, Drive shaft, and front swaybar for the L82 package cars are the same for the BB cars,. I removed all the A/C junk and installed a delete cover which took off a lot of weight for the front end, Replaced the stock radiator for an aluminum piece which also saved weight and cools quicker, car hangs around 190 all day. the diveshaft has the straps instead of the u-bolts, I replaced the 177 thousand mile u-joints. I had to change the brackets for the alt. and power steering unit and had to change the pressure side power steering hose.I have no probelms with the car and love the seat of the pants torque it throws down. It handles great and rides very smooth. Like they say once you drive a Big Block you'll never go back to a small block. Oh yeah also changed the fuel hoses at the pump but the stock lines are fine.

 

I know prices will vary but could anybody give me a rough estimate of what I should expect to pay for an early C3 SB coupe ('68-'70)? I would like one that runs and is not in need of a full restoration. However, I'm not afraid to do my own work and throw some money into the car to bring it up to date as long as its within my budget. In the short term, I just want something driveable and presentable. Dropping in a crate motor is more of a long term goal once I get out of college in a few years and start making more money.

 

As stated before, condition is everything. In todays economy, JMHO, you could expect to pay between $12,000 to $18,000 for a nice condition NOM driver. The upper end might even get you a convertible. A farmed out paint job can run anywhere from $5,000 to $15,000 depending on the condition of the fiberglass. If you can do all of the work yourself, all the better, but you can use that as a bargaining chip.
Good luck with your search, and be sure to ask questions here. Lots of knowledge to support you here. If this is your first Corvette purchase, you might want to have someone look it over with you when the time comes. There are specific places to look for rust and you might not see it. Research is your friend, BEFORE your purchase.

 

$12-18,000 seems reasonable. Like I said before, documentation and and numbers matching are not my primary concern as I will be modifying it to the way I like it. I just want a clean car with minimal rust. When it comes time for the purchase, maybe I can have someone here who has more experience and lives in the area come and look at the car with me. Also, did all early C3s that weren't convertibles have T-Tops?

 

As mentioned, condition is really everything, with a really clean, rust free bird cage, base engine car chrome bumper car, bringing some pretty big bucks. With the price of gas today, not sure about the BB idea. Maybe get a clean base engined car, and go a used LS2 or 3 engine. These set up's can usually do an easy mid 20's highway, depending on gearing.